Acclimating spring seedlings outdoors for summer

I am sure this must be a topic but my search yielded no result. If it it does please merge with existing post.

Here is some generic chat gpt info:

  1. Gradual Exposure to Light Intensity:
  • Start with dappled or shaded areas: Begin by placing your plants in areas with indirect or filtered light, like under trees or a shade cloth. This will help reduce the stress of direct sunlight while still allowing them to adjust to the outdoor light spectrum.
  • Gradually increase direct sunlight exposure over time, starting with morning or late afternoon sunlight, which is less intense.
  1. Increase Light Duration Slowly:
  • Each day, increase the duration of outdoor exposure by 1-2 hours. Keep an eye on the plant’s response: signs of stress include wilting, leaf curl, or sunburn (bleached tips).
  1. Monitor Weather Conditions:
  • If temperatures are lower than 55°F (13°C), avoid placing your plants outside for extended periods.
  • Consider wind and rain protection, such as windbreaks or temporary shelters.
  1. Watch for Changes in Growth:
  • Plants may adjust in various ways, including slower growth as they adapt to the outdoor light and temperatures. Be patient and monitor them for signs of improvement or decline.

By using dappled light and progressively exposing your plants to stronger sunlight (and warmer temperatures), you reduce the risk of overexposure and stress. This method is ideal for plants transitioning from controlled environments like indoor grow tents or greenhouses to full outdoor conditions.

" A cloudy day is far better than consistent low light. In most cases, a cloudy day is still better than a 400W light in a 5x5 area for cannabis growth.

Charts i had it make

Outdoor Acclimation Reference Chart (Cannabis)

Condition Action What to Watch For Notes
Low Light / Cloudy Day Start outdoors in shaded or dappled light Stress signs: drooping, leaf curl, yellowing Start with 1-2 hours of indirect light, gradually increase exposure
Cool Weather (50°F-55°F) Bring plants indoors if nighttime temperatures drop Cold damage: darkened or wilted leaves Ensure temperature doesn’t fall below 50°F (10°C) at night
Daytime >55°F Expose to morning or late afternoon sunlight Leaf burn: crispy edges or bleaching Gradually extend exposure to 3-4 hours of sunlight
Moderate Sun Exposure Increase outdoor exposure by 1-2 hours each day Watch for sunburn signs, leaf curl Pay attention to temperature fluctuations during this time
Full Sun Exposure After 7-14 days, transition to full sun No signs of stress: healthy leaves and growth Plants should be ready for full exposure if acclimated properly
Ideal Conditions Daytime temperatures 70°F-85°F (21°C-29°C) Healthy, vibrant growth Keep an eye on humidity and water stress during hot days
Outdoor Temp (°F) PAR Higher Outdoors? Move Plants Outside? Considerations
Below 45°F Yes / No :x: No Too cold; risk of shock, slowed growth, and possible damage.
45-55°F Yes :warning: Maybe Short durations only. Monitor for stress; use covers or partial sun exposure.
55-65°F Yes :white_check_mark: Yes Safe if not windy. May slow growth slightly, but increased light can offset.
65-85°F Yes :white_check_mark: Best Range Ideal conditions for strong growth and light absorption.
85-90°F Yes :warning: Maybe Watch for heat stress. Provide airflow and shade if needed.
Above 90°F Yes / No :x: No Risk of heat stress, leaf curling, and excessive transpiration.
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I’m not really an outdoor guy but when I am I veg inside at 16/8 and I put them outside when the cycle is the same.

Sometimes I just put them in full sun straight away. Sometimes I start with shade.

The full sun ones get a minor burn but no problem really.

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As far as hours of light outdoors, I’ve found that there are too many variables to account for. I tried vegging at 16 hours of light but discovered that many photo strains will even start to flower at that point.

Most plants will stay in veg if the light hours are over 14 and increasing, but some won’t. The process of “the dance” — transitioning between veg and flower, and then back to veg for a bit before flowering — actually works fine for most plants, especially if you’re just looking for 4-8 oz per plant.

The only constant method I’ve found to keep plants vegging across all strains is cheating. I use artificial light outdoors to manipulate the light schedule. I either extend the morning or night, do a midnight interruption for an hour, or a combination of all three.

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Yes I’d agree with your comments on 14 hours.

I go 16 because that’s the max sun I get outdoors.

Never had an issue with 16 indoors but I did take one to 16 outdoors and ended up with a weird reveg monstrosity. But that was a one off I chalked up to just one of those things.

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I know I got spider mites when I was bringing plants in and out before. Since I may have done dappled light a day or just got lucky with a cloudy day. At least what I’ve grown didn’t seem to mis a beat they love the sun.

I take it easy on tomatoes and peppers

this…
mind over matter???
growin since homegrown
wheel filled cattle lick buckets on pallets and dollies w plants about willy nilly like movin for sun in winter avoidin freezienesses 7k alt n soil temp here late like end may i sing n think happy thoughts… never been even a little carefull lol… i wonder now that i am aware of how gentle was sposed to be bein… lol … are they no longer going to move seamlessly between leds and daily trips outdoors … never mind temps either… I put em in full sun any day there is some… cold only slows stuff n be a spell befor freezing stops… dang anyway … I like to add lights when its warm nuff they stay out… lol i am a horse trainer, never occurred gentle’n plants.

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well scout welcome to the community.
i’ll tell you whut. It was fun to read you response witha funny accent.

Thanks for the thread. Great topic.
Almost killed the 91 and the D last year by giving em too much sun too soon. Resilient plant.

This for sure is a problem that could be devastating. How long where you bringing plants in and out for ?This was to bring them out for the summer or finish them up in the winter? I would never recommend finishing outdoor buds indoors for this reason.
@scout acclimation is real i dun think its mind over matter.

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I was bringing out in spring maybe start two hours and increase an hour a day. So wound up bringing them into basement. Since I’ve gotten lucky just planting on a cloudy day no in out. Could be tough plants?

I’ve popped 1000s of seeds for outdoor, and it should be super simple. In most cases no need to start indoors or anything. Once its no longer frost at night, pop the seeds in full shade. Ive done under a tree, under a bench, using shade fabric. As long as its full shade, theyll do great. I’ve popped seeds like this in 100+ degrees a buncha times. The only difference is theyll get watered 2x a day vs once.

I see folks online starting outdoor seeds way earlier than growers out here ever did. The best time to start full term outdoor seed plants is last week of April, and first week of May. If you get them into big pots soon, its super easy to clear 5+ lbs a plant if they’re solid genetics. If you’re keeping them smaller without having t the cut them way back. closer to June is more ideal. Its cool Chat GPT is able to give so much information. But it seems to be as complicated as possible, when it can be a lot easier.

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popping seeds in sunlight is no problem.

topic how to drive safely in the snow
"your response well duh dont drive in the snow.

As far as im concerned the info above is like 101 i dont even see anything debatable.

Im not debating. Im saying theres easier ways lol. live in a place where any seedlings will fry in the sunlight and DLI is 70+. Its not universal.

Now youre just straw manning arguments? Not sure what your point is? But I recommend popping more seeds in more climates before making such bold claims.

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You want me to go around popping beans in differnt climates before i can make a bold claim such as acclimation is real or you can pop seeds in sunlight?
you need to acclimate thats why your seedlings fry.

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@BackyardBoogie420 i assume they veg outside too? I pop seeds indoors and move em out thus yhe need to acclimate.

Oh wait ive done it but without consistent success.

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I germ in the dark.

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I wear my sunglasses at night.

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I like slowed growth for autos for cold nights. They yield higher in spring with cold nights (greenhouse “cold”) cause they basically go into a hibernation or torpor. Their metabolism slows so much, it’s like some days don’t count toward total number, affecting yield. What I mean is People get monster yields off autos indoors with prime conditions and 18+ hours of light. Can’t do that outside. I Had 70 day autos go 100 and rival photos for size at that age. Might not be ideal, but not at all detrimental if you’re patient. Maybe even an advantage.

Bottom line: if a tomato plant can take it, so can pot, and they can take anything above 32f.

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Yup! Unless youre in a really hot climate, as soon as they pop and youre ready to pot them up into party cups or small pots, theyll be ready to rock in the sun. If its real hot, let em get a good 4-5 nodes, or if they start gettin a touch leggy. Super easy! Of course hardening off from indoor is necessary in some climates. But not most.

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I forget how different it is for everyone world wide. I’m zone 7. Not even sure that has meaning elsewhere

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