I didn’t take the insides fully out ( as I assume it’s connected to the probe and sensor ) and I just fiddled with the LCD displayit abit and put all back togeather again , the ghosting is now mainly gone : )
I seen this vid and wondered if next time should I try this ? Any suggestions welcome as I would like to proporly fix it but Bluelab lcd is different than one below . I don’t know how to relate the fix to the bluelab lcd and me constantly fiddling with it , will surely break it : )
Well, he has pads that need to be pressed on board, you have pins that need to be soldered on board, i would open it and wiggle left right top bottom press in, see if you have a bad solder connection on some pin (you should see solder “unglue-ing” from board or something) , i dont know how will tape help, i assume youll just have trouble putting mask on since your screen is not removable… Bad solder connection requires desoldering and soldering again…
I’ve seen odd effects (missing segments, etc) on LCD displays when the battery is about dead. Might be a simple fix, when was the battery last replaced?
@Wiener_Demeanor yes my technical fiddling I did involved me lightly pressing around edge of LCD , it is usable now as most ghosting is gone , I shall wait till it gets bad again before I attempt again ( don’t want to push my luck )
As @Wiener_Demeanor said the multi meter is using zebra strips and yours is the more problematic pinned version. Have a look at the solder job on the pins but 99.8% of the time the issue is the pin to the glass connection. They actually lay down a conductive path of aluminum (vapour deposition) across the glass to the pin. You can see the tracks if you angle the light just right.
Typically the problem is the corner pins (more mechanical stress). I used to repair these years ago with a conductive epoxy (crazy expensive). Have a look around you might find something suitable.
So big update lol when I put it back togeather the LCD was fine , fixed itself but my buttons where dis logged from the inside casings and also no matter what I place probe in , it says 7 ( I must have damaged the wire connecting probe to board
It’s now in the bin
Moral of the story , don’t fuck about with your ph meter , especially on hols and in lockdown : )
I got some shit going on with my Nikon CoolPix L32 digi cam. Was taking some pics of the foggy frosty hoar frost covered trees on the way home from town 3pm yesterday. Dark spot on the bottom of the screen and figured it was dead area on the LCD at teh back of the camera but was on the pics when I downloaded to my PC. Gets darker as zoom is applied. Nothing on the lens and I cleaned that to be sure.
All I can think it’s a dead spot on the CCD is it called? Hoping it was a random bit of dust that got on it somehow I rapped the camera with a bic lighter to see if it moved but nada. I know I can replace the LCD if I want but the CCD? Really like this little camera too as it has manual white balance so I can calibrate it to get good pics under HPS light. Was only $100 a couple years ago but still.
But where tho? It’s all sealed up except for the pocket for the batteries and memory card. Never been wet. The lens extends when you turn it on then closes and has shutter doors that close over the lens like eyelids.
I can still use it but will have to remember to frame my shots so the spot isn’t in the image I want unless I want the date to show.
Oh well. It’s not the end of the world. Jan. 20th will be when the US Civil War ver. 2.0 starts.
