Apparently it’s a P2 i guess!
Book coming out this winter!
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H2…
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I told i was confused… LOL
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maybe not as much as you think…
*Keeping in mind that “P” is just my proposal. Which I’m actually thinking about changing, because some geneticists use “P” to designate the parent plant. Maybe “H” would be better, as I can’t think of anything in genetics that uses just “H” as a designation. H could stand for Hybrid
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I definitely have to read it again now!
Going to a water park with my kids and when i come back, will dedicate time to doing it.
Thanks @Grower13!
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It’s confusing specifically because we need to replace a long understood symbol, “F”, with a replacement like “P” or “H”.
To help clear up some of the confusion, and to encourage people to use “H”, that isn’t used yet, instead of “P”, which is used to designate parents, I’m going to list a logical nomenclature here, and place it in the bottom of the first post for future viewers.
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@MadScientist I’ve had an idea of marketing a strain starting at ~H3, as an ongoing project towards H21 so people can follow the progress. Maybe with a sliding scale pricing, where the seeds start out free, or close to, and each release gets incrementally closer to the value of the finished line.
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Well, that sounds great man, good luck in the long journey! I think i can do that too, one tent two parents, perpetually used for that one strain to make it to H21, therefore an F1. Doing it, that is a whole new game!
We are in diapers here in Costa man! The other day i was called a “breeder” by one guy i follow on IG from here, i was worried one of you might see that! I would be cricified for something like that in here, LOLOL!
I told them i wasn’t even a pollen chucker and that i made one cross, and that it was off of a tester and that didn’t seem to go anywhere, they were more concerned about the lineage of the seeds and all, than me claryfing i wasn’t a breeder.
I don’t wanna sell anything, or make money off of it, yet. Patience for now on my side, we are getting there.
HppHrvst 
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That’s a good thing though because you will learn best practices from the start, and not have a bunch of stoner science bad habits that need to be broken.
The rest of the world is still in diapers too, but most of em don’t know or won’t admit it.
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The chart I added should be scientifically accurate, allowing anyone that learns the terminology to converse as a peer with scientists, while also being easily intuitively understandable.
If you notice any mistakes let me know and i’ll fix the chart or add to it as needed!
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so how long are you thinking it will take?.. I’ve heard Bodhi on a pod cast talk about how much is left in SSDD and encouraged peeps to work with it…
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Dj Short has some releases strains “f13” He’s been breeding long enough I believe he can be close or has done it but his son has taken over too and Gaurnteed he passed genetics to him
So let’s say your starting from scratch
Parent 1 being female , parent 2 being male
Parent 1 Hybrid x Parent 2 Hybrid (different strain)
=
Cross A
So let’s say you take 2 months for veging to take clones, flower to make sure you find some keeper traits just so your not working with mutants etc. now we are at 5 months before you see them hanging smells etc, now you;ve picked your 2 and it’s going to take another 10 weeks plus harvest so 9.5 months by the time you have “your” first Cross EG (Cross A )or if you have genetics ready to go lets say 3 months by the time you have everything set up and seeds, as they take a bit longer to finish than regular sensimilla bud.
Now starting with your Cross A you are at either 3 months or 9.5 and here’s where it will get consistent
take 2 of your Cross A to bred together
Cross A Parent 1 x Cross A parent 2
=
H1 Cross A
This is where time can vary if you are simply breeding to get down the line or taking your time with traits,
You can pop seeds and flower 2 months in without clones, Cull all males but one and pick which female you want to take your next generation of beans from depending on what it shows, this will take around 5-6 months depending on your sitatuation , to make a cross, Being able to do almost 2 lines a year. If you choose to more paticularily breed, and select males / females you will again be about the 9.5 - 10months ,
So to be at Cross A you will add 5-6 Months or 9.5-10months to your orignal time put in being at either , 8months - 20 months in either 3/4 of a year or just over 1 1/2 years. To be at Your H1 Cross
Continue step one with your H1 cross
H1 cross Parent 1 x H1 cross Parent 2
=
H2 cross
Repeat x 19 more times to create your TRUE F1
Time per = 5-10 months
Total time invest at F1 stage = 108 - 220 Months ( 9 years - 18 1/3 years )
That is my estimate / opinion under my current knowledge… It will take a while but some people have been breeding that long … Of course it can take MUCH longer, But that is roughly how I think it can be done " Quickly "
Anyone can nitpick or call me out on somthing I could be way off but thats how I understand it
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That was direct to you not sure if it went through that way
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I knew it could be measured in decades… and then there’s the selections or multiple selections… and flowering the males to see if they’ve got the IT factor… and there’s working multiple lines during the whole 10 to 20 years… end up with a few H21 by the time your done… but agonizing over the plant selections would surely hit me.
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I’d have to agree 2 to 3 generations Max per year.
But I’m pretty sure you can get it down to reasonable homogeneity in 6 to 9 generations depending on your source genetics.
When I’m running killing fields from sannies there is very little variation in their f5s.
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I’m not sure there would be a difference to the eye after about H6 or 7… your gains each generation are minimal after that.
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the quickest time would be 4 generations a year… PUSHING it, 12/12 from seed and selecting during flower, not really giving a fair test, you could technically have it in 5 years. Having said that, WIll it be worth ANY of that time you spent on it ? Depends on starting genetics
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You could do 4 a year of a really short flowering variety, but sativa leaning stuff would Max at 3.
I’ll be lucky to get two in for 2018 due to my production run.
I really like the “H” designation @Grower13
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At my current rate. Twenty years. 
@StrainVenator timeline seems pretty legit. Three generations every other year should be a consistently attainable goal, with enough leeway to account for any Murphy’s Law-related delays.
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For the sake of transparency I’m including the entire email conversation, but skip to the end for the reveal.
"I was a part of the Instagram comments thread regarding F1 generation labeling accuracy. It was stated that Phylos Bioscience had found some (4 rumor had it) cultivars that were very close to homozygous, but hadn’t quite achieved that status yet. I’d like to know what those cultivars are if they exist. I am asking for this information in order to educate members of the Overgrow.com forums on genetics and breeding. The knowledge that there are even a few cultivars that are closer than most others to be homozygous seems to have their attention and they are learning genetics because of it! Thank you for your assistance in this.
Thank you,
Sebring"
"Hi Sebring,
Thank you for reaching out, and for following us on social media!
We’ve sequenced around 4,000 varieties in our Galaxy, so I’m not sure which those are off the top of my head, but I’m going to reach out to our science team and find the answer for you. I’ll be in touch very soon with more information!
All the best,
JEN HUDYMA
CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST"
"Hi Sebring,
Thank you for your patience while I gathered more information on which cultivars we’ve sequenced are the closest to being homozygous.
Here are links to Genotype Reports for some of those submissions:
Sumatra Tuk Tuk
Paraguay 3 1996
Nicaragua 4
Thai Stick
Gold Colombian
These submissions are fairly homozygous, but still vary at around 5% or more of the sites we examine. You can find more information on the sites we examine through the Open Cannabis Project.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
All the best,
JEN HUDYMA
CUSTOMER SUCCESS SPECIALIST"
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