i have made battery packs for things before and they are a bitch to solder without messing up. you can make a spot welder from a microwave transformer and some creativity and they work pretty well, i have two now and a few spare microwaves waiting on the transformers to be removed. if you need one i can ship it to you for cost, unless you have a spare one lying around. or you can buy one already made.
i had a fiber optic fusion splicer that needed a new battery but i had gotten it for $400 five years ago and was discontinued and the battery pack was not available anywhere, but the cells were common, i forgot what type. i almost forgot, you may be able to go to a battery store and have them make you one. that is how i found out how to do it. batteries plus was the name of the store. they would have made mine but i was in it for the learning and not just the finished product. now i can make my own. good luck with it.
I have to clean a deck soon. I have a pressure washer (not a very good one, but I have one). What is the ultimate cleaner to use in combination with pressure washer and a stiff deck broom to get the deck clean? Or, what is your technique, and equipment, instead?
The deck has three levels. It has algae all over it (including the underside), and there’s one spot where there’s an old motor oil stain. Ideally, I’d like to spray something on it, let it “sit” and breakdown the stains, then spray it off after. On the deck surfaces, I can scrub a little bit. But I duno how I’ll get stuff like algae off the underside of the decks above.
Anyone have experience?
Thank you.
Another thing, any tips on getting spray foam insulation on a brand new door. I would never let this happen. But the contractor did. The home store told him acetone, and that they’d replace the door if it ruined it. I’m about to do a little test of several solutions on the top of the open door, where it can’t be seen.
And, I’ve used spray foam before, I know acetone is pretty much the best cleaner, and essentially what they sell as the spray gun cleaner. Just curious if there’s something I hadn’t thought about.
We use a small amount of bleach or tsp and a pump sprayer to apply it. The oil stain is gonna stay likely. No need to scrub. Mostly a good 3000 psi powerwasher would be worth it to rent if you just have an electric one. Spray foam we remove without solvents, scrape it with a plastic scraper/ sanding block to finish it. Elbow grease type stuff.
first always use a bit of tape with the foam rooky mistake acetone will work for clean up before that crap cures not now save your money home depot has an orange product i call it agent orange it works well with the typical blacks leaf stains for the oil stain no idea on that one for the algae i use algaecide you can get it at Walmart Canadian tire not pool shock that is chorine stuff you use when the pool turns green
Yea mine is only electric. The cured spray foam ain’t coming off with a plastic scraper. Was hoping wouldn’t have to sand. If anything like that, going to have to get the contractor to fix this some other way (like replace the door).
@thainer Yea, rooky mistake indeed. But he is the contractor, and the one who made it. I have a “pro” foam gun, and I’m just a “home owner”. He said “I don’t need that - I’m not a pro”, when mentioned it. Then he went and did this. Nice, right?
I have a bunch of pre-torn sheets of shop towel/paper towel, acetone in a shallow container, some wooden skewers, nitrile gloves, and foam gun cleaner, with me anytime I deal with this stuff. I never has “accidents” like this. Haha.
Depends on the decking. If its ipe or mahogany, i use baking soda/bleach mixture and scrub.
If its pressure treated, theres a product called Jomax house wash, mix that with bleach spray and let it sit prior to powerwashing. May have to scrub some. You are not getting that oil out.
I use an electric pressure washer to remove algae from cedar boat decks all the time. No chemical needed. Anything more than the electric’s power and it’d be eating holes in the cedar.
Edit:
quickly tested acetone (known to work), xylene, varsol, ISO (knew it wouldn’t). Mainly seeing if the paint would be damaged. Only things that seemed to affect a piece of cured foam put into a mini cup with the chemicals was the acetone and xylene.
It takes some contact time to soften the foam.
Thanks.
Edit:
Well the acetone ruined the door in the spot I tried. FYI.
Ok. I have a feeling where this mishap might be going, so I might as well ask now. How does one paint a door? I will look this up on my own, but curious.
Exterior door paint, enamel paint, etc.? Is this usually, or possibly done by “hand” with a roller and brush, or does it require spraying/professional?
New doors like this, the way they come, is that even finished paint - or is it technically just a primer, meant to be painted. I think many people leave them as is, which is what we would do. So it must be proper paint…no?
i would and do use and exterior enamel paint Behr product from the depot no you can do it would recommend a couple of horses pull the pins and lay it down i just use one of those short foam rollers and a throw away foam brush small 1 1/2 wide one for nooks and carnies
Sounds like you’re acting as your own GC ( General contractor) . Lots of smaller contractors are used to working as subs. They generally do smaller jobs where there is a standing onsite GC they are working for. GC does all the quality controls and accepts the work or rejects the work. Always important to have some sort of GC Even if it’s you doing the best you can. This generally ensures some sort of quality Control. The sub is generally responsible for any problems associated with his work. It’s up to the GC to call out the sub immediately If the work is not satisfactory or if they caused additional damage. Generally speaking painted surfaces are extremely difficult to remove well bonded overspray, etc… we do lots and lots of below grade injection And your only chance at cleanup is immediately wiping it up with solvent be fore it cures. Solvents have their own set of risk they can change the finish of surfaces very quickly and easily. The door here will be a small repair probably best It was the door and nothing else. Smaller surface area to repair and easier to fix and match the surfaces with paint. I will say good job taking on the GC Position most people just try to avoid being involved well done @Nitt Cheers !!!
Disappointed to hear this because, whenever I have my crew do anything that I am liable for I make them at least drape/tape with painter plastic prior to making any mess. I have had to fix shit on my own expense due to carelessness of others before.
@Fullcircle These sorts of repairs are a nuisance in construction as they were not planned so money time ect. Some companies take them extremely seriously as they should because you’re legally liable for damages, etc., negligence. It also teaches the crews how to work properly. You can get away with these sorts of things for a while in non-Union construction but eventually they catch up. In union Construction, you won’t even last the day the big boys will eat you up with site politics and rework costs will bankrupt you !!! Cheers
Thank you for your insight. Ive been a self employed contractor for 17 years and in the business for about 25 years. I do enjoy people telling me how to do various projects!