🧿 Early Genetics for 45-55 North

(TLTR: this is a seedshare)

Hi, I am Arnold
and my passion is growing plants.

I love all plants but growing cannabis under the sun has a special place in my heart.

When growing at 52 degrees North it is very important to have the right genetics at hand. Go for guaranteed success instead of a gamble.

When I started growing 18 years ago there were a few Dutch crosses that were early enough for our situation, but the best stuff came from Denmark. Shout out to Hybrids from Hell and froebanken. A few years in, I discovered that there was a big Canadian outdoor growing culture. I was able to learn from the best at the UnleashDaGreen and SeedShare forums. I can’t name them all but eternal thanks to krk, BreederBrad, Da’Shadow, Zygote and all the others showing us youngsters the ropes, sharing knowledge and genetics.

Over the years I grew almost any early outdoor variety I could find.

I distilled a few goals for my own seedmaking out of that.

.

Main goals:

  • Keeping terp heavy smells once dried
  • Compact buds

Bonus points:

  • Ultra early finish: mid September harvest @52N
  • Keeping color when stored instead of turning brownish.

If I was reading that, I would think: “you’re selecting cannabis and your goal is not the effect?!”

10 points if you had the same thought!

The answer is: I am comparing highs of the plants that I selected based on the main goals. So smoketesting definitely is a step in the process, but it comes after the main goals.

I have a whole other project where the high is the only goal. You can read about that here and here.

.

.

The genetics used for early finish can be divided into

“Earlies”

…is how I call them, but light sensitive varieties would be more accurate. They start flowering when the days are still long.

You can keep them as motherplant. It’s not always easy, but it’s possible on 24/0 and with enough root space.

Most of them will start and finish flowering under 18h of light. Some of them on 20h, 21h, …

When I call something “Ultra Early” I mean finishing mid September or earlier.

.

Autoflower

or dayneutral plants. They will start and finish flowering on 24h of light. You can not keep motherplants.

99% of the available auto seeds are descendants of lowryder. But there are other known autoflower genes. When I mention auto I mean lowryder auto unless stated otherwise.

This gene seems to breed recessive when crossed to a photo parent, resulting in fairly straight forward Mendelian Punnett squares. When crosses to an early other rules seem to apply. You can hit 50% true auto’s in the F1 cross or even 100%. In the F2 generations it gets even more bumpy. (sidenote: this also seems to be the case when crossed to equatorial sativa’s)

.

Photoperiod

All the other plants. The majority of the known varieties. They start and finish flowering at 12h/13h/14h of light. They can be kept as motherplants. Short “photo”.

Most of them finish too late for outdoor growing in the North. Especially if you want compact, frosty buds. More is possible when growing for your own jars, especially if you don’t mind the risk of not harvesting that particular plant.

.

.

.

This is good visualization of why we need light sensitivity in the Northern latitudes:

A few Northern growing area’s as reference:
Denmark 54N to 57N
The Netherlands 51N to 53N
Canada 45N - 49N

We all reach the equinox at the same day: the 22th of September it’s 12h light and 12h dark. But the more North you go, the longer the longest day of the year and the bigger the daylight swings are.

.

.

For outdoor genetics it is useful to know what the advantages and disadvantages are of the different finish times. In the following I will share how I see those. I grow at 52N so when I say Mid September finish it may not correspond to your situation.

As a general rule of thumb you could distract 2 days per latitude less North. For example a 20 October finish @50N is roughly a 10 October finish @45N. It depends on too many factors for a simple rule like this, but you get a rough idea…

Before we go into this a disclaimer: there will be exceptions to the patterns I see. Loads of them! I write this to tease your thinking about outdoor crosses. Not to spit universal truths. Bear with me.

.

Before Mid August finish

Auto’s

This is only possible with autoflowers. In my opinion auto’s are only useful for people who really want a (first little) harvest in early summer.

Auto’s are finicky, often end up ugly or moldy. They hate cold soil. If you can grow them in pots in a greenhouse they can thrive. If you can plant them outdoors in soil that has been turned and heated by the sun, they can do good as well.

I am not saying it is not possible, I am saying other genetics tend to be much easier.

In my experience earlies or early x auto are much more adapted to the outdoor living. They grow bigger, healthier and nicer under sub optimal conditions.

.

Mid August - Mid September finish

Auto or Ultra early x auto

Better suited for outdoor growing. A tad bigger and more resilient. But most of all: much prettier! They know how to make nice buds. Something autoflower have difficulties with.

You should transplant them early, keep them max 3 weeks in small pots. When the roots get rootbound they will start to flower and they won’t be able to recover from that.

The disadvantage of the warm temps as described in the next category also greatly applies to this one. It’s a bit of a gamble: harvest primo quality or lose harvest to botrytis.

Leaf septoria tends to do more damage late in the season so when that is a problem you can try your luck with these faster finishers.

.

Mid September finish

Ultra early, (Ultra) Early x auto or [Photo x (Ultra) early] x auto

This is the area where I want to make a difference. These genetics are very difficult to find.

They come with a big advantage: they finish when the sun is still shines bright and long. They can transform this energy into building nice frosty buds.
Not only the light hours thaw when reaching October, the intensity of the light does too. As does the angle of the sun and the day/night temperatures. Cannabis thrives on temperatures above 15C (F) and with high intensity light and it shows when growing these ultra early varieties.

It’s not all rose colored though. The higher (night) temperatures come with a disadvantage as well: it’s also what molds like best. So when you are growing in spots where the dew keeps your plants wet long or in years with prolonged periods of rain or mist in September then botrytis will find its way into your grow.

For the best chance of harvesting great looking bud you’ll need luck with weather + an open spot that let the morning sun and air circulation in to evaporate dew and rain. Growing these in poorly ventilated hoop houses, for example, has often proven unsuccessful.

So in short: Sun starred quality, but only for superb spots!

.

End September finish

Early, Early x auto, [Photo x (Ultra) early] x auto or some Photo x Ultra Early

These might form the most all round category. They do still benefit from the advantage of the light intensity and long days, resulting in shiny buds.

They are more forgiving and resilient than their quicker counterparts. They grow big and provide nice harvests.

.

Mid October finish

Photo, Photo x Early, Photo x auto

When the intensity of the light drops, the days get shorter and the temps cool down, the plant metabolism slows down as well. This results in leafier buds, sometimes more lose, often not as terp heavy as the same genetics could have been.

The advantage is that botrytis has it even more difficult. The result is that October finishers tend to be less hit by that type of mold. Unless you hit very bad weather of course, which is totally possible this time of the year.

Plants were able to veg longer so grow huge providing big piles of harvest.

.

End October finish

Photo, Photo x Early, Photo x auto

Pushing the boundaries. You lose quite a bit of the looks, you lose a bit of terps, you lose a bit of potency. But for some varieties the genetics totally make up for it. If you start with awesome potency you can afford losing a bit of that and get piles of harvest in return.
.

Comparing harvest

More days of light = more energy stored = more plant = more harvest.

That means that as a group the harvest of auto’s is not comparable to the same harvest a October finisher will give. That is for each planted square meter, not even for each plant.

If productivity is your prime goal then you should opt for late season finishers. I would argue that if your prime goal is quality in terms of looks, terps and potency you have better chance of finding that in September or early October finishers.

.

.

.

I love to see my brain marriages play out in gardens all over the world. So if you’ve done some sharing of your outdoor garden before and you’re up to doing it again I am eager to share some of my crosses with you.

I had a looking-back moment this year and wanted to focus on what stood out as my best outdoor crosses so far.

This is what made the list:

Mextiza x UEL F1 aka. MexKing
Ghost OG x Maverick F1
Erdbeer x UELearly F1 aka. SwissKing
UEL x auto F1

So I then decided to cross those with auto fem pollen in the hopes to get them earlier, frostier and add more terps as well.
I am thinking about remaking some of the F1’s as well.

All the seeds I am offering are untested in this form. The initial crosses were many times by many growers, but the cross to the auto is not. I, however, have enough experience with them to have confidence in the outcome.

Since writing the full genetics is a pain I came up with some silly names. You will find my strength lies more with crosses than with comming up with names haha :smiley:

There is a whole lot of years and selection effort boiled down in these offerings.

The OCAP auto is a housemix mostly from NightOwl, Mephisto and RocBud genetics. The female pollen donor was chosen out of 17 reversed females.

.

:four_leaf_clover:

.

olilo

Ultra Early Sativa S1 selection x OCAP auto :female_sign:

Mid to End of September @52N

Pics of UES:

.

siWis

[{Erdbeer x Ultra Early Love ‘ultra early S2’} F1 selection] S1 x OCAP auto :female_sign:

Mid September @52N

.

Pics of the F1 mother:

Pics of F1 x auto by a Polish friend:

.

voHov

{Ghost OG S1 ‘purple expression’ x Maverick ‘red type’} purple F1 selection x OCAP auto :female_sign:

End September @52N

Pics of mother

.

xelex

{Mextiza x Ultra Early Love} F1 x OCAP auto :female_sign:

Begin to Mid October @52N

Pics of F1 by a Canadian friend:

.

ThaiMav

Maverick red type S1 x WildThailandRyder (auto) :female_sign:

end August - Mid September @52N

Pics by British and American friends:

:four_leaf_clover:

Northern outdoor growers unite! We go for indoor quality under the sun.

Much love

:lotus:

Arnold.

78 Likes

I have just harvested seeds that I made using your UES x a C99 from PSBC that I’ve been hopeful about and can’t wait to give them a try.

Thanks for your work, as it’s not easy growing over 50 N
:+1:

15 Likes

You want something with a huge gene pool? Freakshow itself seems to be an early September flower here at 40N. This cross will have photos, fast flowers, and autos with various traits.
Great if you wanna pheno hunt.

F1 = banana daddy auto X freakshow

(Banana Daddy BX F1) x (Freakshow BX F1) will give you a mix of Freakshow traits with a decent amount of autoflowers. Expect:

  • 40%-60% Freak Leaves: With a strong Freakshow influence from both sides.
  • 25%-50% Autoflowers:
9 Likes

If you ain’t already check out paniks gear at realgorillaseeds there made at your latitude bud

sorry i thought you were asking for seeds.

These are the strains your offering?
Ultra early, (Ultra) Early x auto or [Photo x (Ultra) early] x auto
Auto or Ultra early x auto
Photo, Photo x Early, Photo x auto
ect.

2 Likes

That will turn out great! Probably mid to end October finish. The UES makes awesome crosses.

Panik and I learned the ropes from the same people. His focus and dedication on huge fields is unmatched! I’ve grown all the early genetics he works with as well. The pool is not that big.

No, those are blueprints of crosses that will finish at that time frame.

I will launch my offerings this week.

15 Likes

Hey friend, I’m growing outdoors in Victoria area (48.5N and coastal) and after early september, the rainy season starts here and most everything else will go moldy at that point. basically, anything I grow needs to be mold resistant and early september finishing or earlier to really finish and not melt. I had luck with Timewarp and a bunch of mephisto autos. I have to say that my mephisto autos turned out amazing and the sativa ones had great mold resistance and very flavourful high quality bud. I’m doing more outdoor work this year. I did cross some landrace afghani to creme de la chem auto, freakshow crossed to several mephisto sativa autos, and did a freakshow x timewarp. freakshow for me did terribly. didn’t finish early enough and went purely moldy. this year I’m working with timewarp, avalon, purple satellite x MOB, Sudanese (from the real seed company) and friesland for photo period strains, the above mentioned auto-photo crosses and some other auto crosses I’m doing. Good luck and keep us updated! I would love to hear about your experience with different varieties that you have worked with for photo period strains. OH! I also grew Nanda Devi 1 from the real seed company outdoors lastyear. it finished mid november and had barely any rot/mold. it is some crazy genetics, but the bud was very low thc. I did some crosses, wondering if it’s offspring will retain mold resistance but offer some more smokeable bud.

11 Likes

Im in AB just north east of Edmonton. Latitude 53.71. I had some Affi 2 seasons ago that were ultra early and anything less then 24 hrs of light would trigger their flowering response (Gifted to me by a very trusted and reliable source). I put them outside July 12 and they finished September 19. They did produce some small amount of seed (Ive never found any male flower anywhere within these flowers from either plant and no seed only any of the other photo periods I had nearby them.






Im definitely going to follow along on this. Thank you for making this thread :slight_smile:

22 Likes

Whats the secret to keepimg outdoor green instead of turning ugly brown !? Do tell please ! And let me say you have some real beautiful looking plant to gret the visitors !

3 Likes

man this hits me in the right place can i rent a room in this topic ima stick around @arnold

5 Likes

My vote for you would be autos. They’re not my cup of tea but you will beat the frost. I’m not much further south than you.

It’s good to have multiple and flexible goals. Salute.

I’ve got very well stored 4 year old indoor that has turned brown but it is every bit as tasty and potent as when it was young.

8 Likes

Oh really well respect then bud you must have a fair few stories not that I’m asking lol aye he does like his big fields im looking forward to seeing how you roll as well then mate let’s hope for a Indian summer this coming year🤞

4 Likes

Auwtsch! That’s a short season. I know I am lucky with my 30th of October, a lot of places can’t go that far and need earlier finish.

You got some interesting stuff for sure! The timewarp is a classic as are MOB and Friesland. Purple Satellite from Vermontman is super cool for sure.

Seems like you’ve managed to find stuff that works for you! I would have thought all them to be mid October finishers here @52N though. Curious to hear your finishing times on them. Do you need to cut them on the early side?

8 Likes

That’s a great gift! Not a lot of varieties do that. The one Affie that I can think of is called autoAffie and is run by Reibsi. Or related seedstock like irian autoflower. Your pics remind me of them so maybe they are related.

6 Likes

I am no expert but vaccuum sealing and storing buds in the freezer has done wonders for me.

But some genetics will just brown while other do not. It’s something I select for as well.

I agree with Foreigner that the color does not mean low quality, low potency or low terps. For the personal jars it does not matter.

10 Likes

you guys could always mail them to me i sit on 42.4 grow zone 6a 29 weeks of frost free goodness

5 Likes

The timewarp I grew last year was a late september finish, but survived the rains just fine. The rest will be new to me but should all be september finishers. We will see how they do! I usuallu take a good harvest before the rain if they’re not mature, then leave a bit to mature and see how it does with a bit of rain. If I can cover them, great, but with that humidity it doesnt help much

1 Like

Vashon Seed and Merchantile
Vashon Kush

Also, though sold out, Vashon Early Bird, and Eki Bird, which is an even earlier pheno of Early Bird.

Early Bird originally came from Super Sativa Seed Club, in the 80s, and has been bred on Vashon Island/Washington State, for almost 40 years. It was also bred in Holland before that, and was bred for early finish, and mold resistance.

Both Vashon Kush/Early Bird, finish by 15th September. Some really early phenos, are mostly done, end of August-1st week September.
You can find their gear at JBC Seeds. Most everything they have, has been bred for early finish, and mold resistance. And being from Washington State, it has to be able to survive wet times.

11 Likes

Never grown those, but they always seemed tempting! Thanks for reminding me.

5 Likes

Thanks i just thought there was some majic arrow i never heard of ! I sure you’ll agree how many time you have some beautiful looking bud youve done everything right and then you jar it and next time you look its brown ,not purple,green,blue,ect .