Indoor Mineral Grow Diary in a 60x60x160 Grow Tent

Indoor Growing Growroom Diaries
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Greetings, growers around planet Earth, I invite you all to join me on this incredible journey!

First, I want to introduce myself to everyone. I’m a Brazilian grower with around 6 years of cultivation experience, always operating anonymously. I began my journey outdoors when I lived on a farm in the interior of my state, where I developed a deeper understanding of plant behavior. About 2 years ago, I had to move to the city, where I had to adapt my growing style to my current reality, with very little space to cultivate. So, I decided to embark on the journey of mineral cultivation.

In this thread, I will be documenting my grow diary in my 60x60x160 tent. Yes, it’s a small space, but I’m going to show that it’s possible.

I have the following equipment:

LED Quantum Bar 240W Samsung LM301H chips
Automatic watering

I believe this is what’s most interesting, aside from basic equipment like exhaust fans and a circulation fan.

Soil: Coco fiber
Genetics: I’m currently germinating two seeds: 1x Cherry R2 (End Game R2 x Cherry Gar-See-Ya) and 1x Weeding X (White Weeding x XXX).

At this moment, I’m just germinating the seeds and sterilizing the coco coir to perform buffering. As soon as the seeds germinate, I’ll update with photos.

I hope you enjoy and follow along. I’ll always be open to discussions, questions, criticism, and tips. Make yourselves at home, because this will always be a space for learning.

Thank you all, see you soon! :cowboy_hat_face:

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Very interesting. May the Universe bless you and your garden.
:v: :smiley:

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Your OverGrow PODcast card and OG 420 POTM sticker shipped Friday. :sunglasses:

My understanding of using mineral cultivation is that it’s used to increase root growth and promote larger faster growth of the plant. Agriculture uses this method for juicier fruits and vegetables with higher mineral and vitamin and sugar content. I find what your doing here very interesting.

Will you need to monitor the pH or do you already have a plan to control the pH of the soil?

Thank you for being an OverGrow Supporter, I’ll be following along on your grow journey.

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Thank you @Magu the universe bless all of us! :smiley:

Awesome, @Heliosphear i am very grateful, I will go find the best spot to stick the stickers!

Regarding soil pH, as coco coir is naturally acidic, we know that cannabis plants absorb nutrients best within a specific pH range, between 5.9 and 6.2. So, I made a buffering solution for this soil. This will ensure that it stays within this pH range throughout the entire cycle, and the waterings will also be done within this pH range.

I won’t use soil meters, just a pH meter to measure and control the pH of the input solution and to measure the runoff solution. This way, I’ll have a basis for understanding how the soil is behaving.

Thank you very much again for the welcome. Every day I see that this is a community of true, kind Growers!

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Sup ! :brazil::brazil: My future tent has 1.4m height (organic living soil), so i guess this topic will help me. Hope your garden smells good in a while.

Peace

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Greetings friend, welcome to my diary, very good, there will be plenty of space for several genetics in this space!

Thank you, appreciate it!

Peace

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Greetings to everyone who follows, I bring updates.

The seeds germinated in 48 hours, only using damp paper towel inside a closed plastic pot, left in a dark place inside a jacket to keep the temperature warm.

I’ve always done it this way, I’ve never needed to use hydrogen peroxide, maybe with older seeds it’s necessary, I store my seeds in an airtight pot inside the freezer

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Nice :smiley:

Those seeds that sprout quickly are ok without h2o2, but for seeds that need more than few days to sprout(yeah, usually old seeds) it prevents mold.

And lesssgooooo seedlings

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You are totally correct, mate :clap:t4:

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I present to you my little space.

I transplanted the germinated seeds into the rock wool that is inside the 700ml plastic cup with the buffered and saturated coconut fiber to avoid paths in which the water can generate a direct flow channel.

The plastic cups are inside the pots so they don’t get so much light, because it is transparent and I want to avoid the presence of silt because of the humidity and light

The pots are supported on top of the runoff drainers that direct the surplus to a 6 liter box where I will store for disposal and constant measurements, the disposal will be done on plants in the garden of my house

In a few days, we will have young seedlings reaching for the light.

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Congratulations, your space looks perfect, I’ll be following along here, good luck.

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Sup brother, since it’s a very small tent, it needs to be very well-organized to make the best use of the space. Thank you very much, friend!

Feel free to ask if you have any questions.

Thanks for follow up, appreciate it!

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Nice clean setup! Following along. :green_heart:

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Thank you @JOHN1234, welcome!

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Greetings Growers, I bring news! They sprouted right on the second day, which is wonderful!

The race officially begins now; today is day one of these girls’ lives. Let’s follow their growth, my successes, and my mistakes throughout this journey.

Thank you to everyone who is following along, more updates coming soon. :cowboy_hat_face:

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Looking good there bro, would you please explain mineral growing in comparison to more traditional styles.

Thanks

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Thank you very much, my friend @Bayarealivingsoil welcome to my diary!

Well, let’s get to it, these are the main differences between mineral growing and more traditional styles:

  1. Inert Medium, mineral cultivation frequently uses inert mediums such as rockwool, perlite, coco coir, or expanded clay, which serve only as physical support for the roots without contributing nutrients, unlike a living and organic soil, for example.

  2. Direct nutrients, in this method, plants receive essential nutrients directly dissolved in the water, without the need for soil as a support medium and nutrient source. The nutrient solutions are meticulously balanced to provide exactly what the plant needs at each stage of growth.

  3. It allows you to have very precise control over the nutrients, pH, and oxygenation of the nutrient solution, which can optimize plant growth and yield.

  4. Faster growth cycles, in many cases, plants grown using the mineral method can exhibit faster growth cycles due to the immediate availability of nutrients.

  5. Fewer soil-related problems, such as soil-borne diseases, soil-specific pests, and the need for plowing or other forms of soil management.

However, like everything in life, there aren’t only benefits; there’s another side to the coin that isn’t so pleasant. For example, it requires a expensive initial investment in equipment, pumps, reservoirs, irrigation, and climate control systems, dependence on electricity, and a slight increase in electricity consumption, adding to costs…

And most importantly, it requires the necessary technical knowledge, because without the technical understanding to manage the nutrient solution to avoid deficiencies or toxicities in the plants, all the monetary costs and your time will be wasted.

While in traditional growing styles we have:

  1. Plants obtain their nutrients from the soil, which is a complex mixture of organic matter, minerals, water, and air. Nutrient availability depends on the soil composition, pH, and microbial activity.

  2. The soil serves both as physical support for the roots and as a nutrient reservoir.

  3. Control over nutrients is more indirect, generally involving the addition of organic or synthetic fertilizers, which need to be decomposed or dissolved in the soil to be absorbed by the plants.

  4. They generally have slower growth cycles, as the process of obtaining nutrients from the soil can be slower compared to direct absorption in mineral systems.

  5. It requires a lower initial investment, because with a bit of agricultural knowledge, you can create a nutrient-rich soil that the plant needs without spending as much on fertilizers. You have lower electricity costs (especially for those who grow outdoors), avoiding the need for many pieces of equipment and less dependence on technology.

  6. Traditional cultivation methods are more susceptible to problems such as soil-borne diseases, pests and soil compaction

The choice between the two methods depends on several factors, such as the types of plants to be cultivated, available resources, space, the level of technical knowledge, and the grower’s objectives.

I hope this explanation has been helpful! If you have any more questions, just ask. :cowboy_hat_face: :handshake:

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Amazing setup man!!
Best of look with your journey. I’m sure you will have nice flowers very soon and I’ll be here to see how it all turns out.

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Thank you for the kind words, my friend. I believe the vegetative cycle here will be quite fast, I’m guessing around 40 days of vegetative growth before flipping to flower.

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Greetings, growers! I hope you’re all doing well. I apologize for the lack of updates, i’ve been dealing with some personal issues and had a few setbacks with the grow, but everything’s back to normal now!

Today, I’ll be sharing new updates from the period I was away. I have some records and will describe everything that happened with the plants during that time.

Stay tuned, a lot has happened in the last 20 days!

Big hug and talk to you later :cowboy_hat_face: :brazil:

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