Throw saran wrap over the pot losely and it will straighten up. Usually humidity below 85% can cause dampening. I use a reptile tank and plexiglass lid.
Always use a cheap 4ft led shop light for popping seeds. 5000 to 5500 K
Been using it for months popping and cloning. No cloning agents.
I use plugs in rotation on the grid, the soil is aged well and holding up great for clones and popping seeds.
I did a early open drop in soil and they all made it up. Cloning Pakistan Treasure right now.
Beautiful wow
Beautiful buds. Hows she smoke?
She smoked without flavor but hit hard. The purple one has a good smell, but them green ones are the pain killing sit in a wooden rocker a super long time happy buzzed and wishing it had a killer flavor.
Maybe at 12 weeks it wasn’t ready, at 33 degrees, but the high it provided pretty much trashed people who smoked a couple. Freezing rain didn’t phases it. In testing took 17 degrees to show cold damage.
It can survive below freezing no problem, i think and swear, it was still budding up in that last week of rain, freezing rain. Buds kept swelling. And You’ll never worry on it needing support. Strong beast.
Hey man I’m new to growing landrace and heirloom type sativas. I’ve had a couple of successful runs growing modern hybrids and throughout that journey I had discover landrace varieties and got really interested. I ended getting my hands on some Acapulco gold and some seeds from New Caledonia as well. They both are tropical sativas from what I heard/know. Last year I had tried to grow some of my Acapulco gold seeds and failed miserably. They looked super great and healthy in the seedling stage and then when I transplanted them to a soil with more amendments after a while it seemed that they started getting nute lockout. So I naturally changed my soil up to more of a blank canvas with just a bit of worm castings and they seemed to be super slow to grow still. I grew it alongside modern hybrids with same soil and everything and the hybrids were all happy and thriving but the AG definitely still seemed yellowed out and tips burnt and all that. obviously I’m guessing the same soil I was using for the modern strains was too hot. So I don’t know what you could recommend for me there? And also I was gonna ask if I’m basically understanding this right. Sorry, for the questions I’m just new to the pure sativas and trying to grasp these ideas lol. But if you start from seed at a light cycle of 12/12 and let it go like that not changing the light cycle at all you’re saying it would naturally go into flower when it’s mature enough without having to change any of the light hours? Another question I have is wouldn’t growing it out till it reached maturity make it so where it’s a really tall plant by the time it’s fully flowered and ready for harvest? Sorry once again for the questions just have been confused since last year that i tried growing and failed miserably.
It is hard to keep landrace strains happy all the time.
In my experience, less is more. Coco/perlite/worm casings only, is a place to start. Clean non chlorinated water is important. I still adjust pH, some folks like dolomite lime as an amendment and buffer. I add a bit of Azomite.
I try to resist the idea of feeding anything. Top dressing with a bit more worm casings is about it. Insect frass seems ok.
I am running snowhigh AG and Bodhi/MMS AG right now and they don’t like anything. Even hard water pisses them off.
Good luck.
Oh edit: I start my plants in a small container and flip to 11/13 after a few weeks. When they show sex I move the females to a larger container. Males stay in a cup if I want pollen, otherwise they get the ax.
In my stoned opinion, equatorial landrace don’t really like tents, artificial lights or artificial light schedules. They might tolerate it, but I wish I lived in Oaxaca 
I have to agree with you about that. They do better outside, but the timing makes it almost impossible here. I’m gonna try to build a greenhouse this year, as I think they would enjoy that more than the tent.
That said, I have seen pics of tent grown equatorials that looked fantastic, so it’s doable, but I haven’t figured it out yet. Snowhigh put me onto his flowering light schedule of 10 1/2 on, 13 1/2 off. It will shave about 3 weeks off of your flower time, and they seem to tolerate it better.
@Upstate kills me with his plants. They’re all healthy looking, and frosty as shit. Mine don’t look like that. 
I can get seeds made easy enough, but I do not approach that level of skill. I’m a paint by numbers guy, he’s an artist. 
John Fowler had some great lighting ideas. I wish I could remember his veg schedule. It was 12 hours total light, but broken up so it kept the plants in veg. Damn I wish I had written that down.
I will move to 10.5/13.5 after a few more weeks. That works great for sativas, not so much for indicas in my limited experience with same.
Yes @upstate is Rembrandt, and I am Bob Ross with no hair.
I have to agree with both of you @guitarizan and @DainIronFoot this site sparked interest in landrace sativas and I would have failed miserably. @upstates guidance and consistently pushing me to try more and be better I probably would have not even had the small success I’ve had. The forum as a whole has been a god send and ever member has added a bit of knowledge. His passion really helped motivate me. Now I always have some landrace, old school strains running even pushing limits to longer flowering sativas!
Got 3 73’ Durban poison and a morrocan Belida running now. This summer though I think I can pull Jamaican lambbread outside this year! I live in high plains desert near so 
. Maybe a high altitude, dry, hot, friendly long flower 
. Anyways enough babbling lol.
Thanks for the 10.5 13.5 light tip!
@royal has it right. I tried it, but random plants kept flipping, especially males. I like the idea, because it approximates the equatorial light cycle. It also does away with that big drop in light hours from veg to flower. I’ve been thinking about trying 12 on, 5 off, 2 on, 5 off. I think that would stop anything flipping.
@Upstate
I’ve been following this method.
I’ve hit 15 days of 12/12 on a run of F2’s.
Mountain Gold. They are stretchy and there’s a lot of them.
Using straight promix and water.
When I start culling and uppotting it will be into these 18 cell trays.
For this next uppot I have 3 choices for soil medium.
Straight promix again - 50/50 promix and worm castings or I can mix both with last years living soil along with it.
Say thirds. 1/3 used living soil, 1/3 pro mix, 1/3 castings.
Recommendations?
I’m really trying to keep them restricted.
Just wondering how long they can run on the energy from the seed?
I don’t want to feed them too much.
The plan is to have timed the weather here at 42.2N to be able to move them out of the propagation cabinet to the back porch in the next 3 weeks.
I was given 4 Oaxacan seeds back in the day. About 2000 give or take a year. Ended up getting a nice sprout. Then had to quit smoking for a while. I ended up pinching it back until it was a tight little bush because I couldn’t smoke, and when I flowered it, it was a two foot nice little bush. Dried it and kept it for 6 months until I could smoke again, and when I smoked it, I totally lost track of where I was lol. Trying to drive home from my friends was one long curvy road for 3 miles or so and I thought I was lost and took a wrong turn. Damn heady Sativa.
Currently running 7 Malawi Gold (The Real Seed Company) and 1 Nepali Mountain Ganja (also TRSC). The NMG I will probably remove when it gets in the way I just wanted to see how they grow for a bit.
Obviously running 7 MGs in a 1x1 tent is madness but my plan is as follows:
Allow them to grow until they show sex. When they show sex, clone the females into my cloning tent and cull them. Supercrop the males. Then sow Deep Chunk where the females were removed. The idea is to pollinate Deep Chunk females with MG pollen to create a more manageable hybrid. Whilst that project is going on I will ‘age’ the females in the cloning tent and in 6-12 months I will take a single cutting and grow it out 12/12 from the beginning and train it nice and wide and flat. I think this way I will be able to get the best expression of the genetic I can in my small space.
Does reducing the day hours, i.e. going from 12/12 to 11/13 or 10/14 reduce size of the plants or does it increase legginess?
If the former it seems it would kill 2 birds with 1 stone, increasing rate of maturation and reducing overall size.
Just for clarification when i say ‘reduce the size’ i don’t mean shrink the plants i just mean reduce their final size by removing photosynthesis hours.
I know this thread was inactive for awhile.
We’ll keep posting and hopefully it will get noticed and we can ask more questions.
I couldn’t wait on my starts. it was time.
I decided to go the 1/3’s route of promix, ewc, and used living soil.
I started choosing and moving starts.
144 whittled down to 72 in the tent.
But I wasnt quite ready to let the others go.
Since I expect only 25% to express express what I’m looking for.
So I put a tray of overflow out in the hot tub room to start hardening off.
They look good this morning.
Seedlings have been moved outside.
I’m trying extra hard to keep them small.
They will be 30 days above ground on Monday.
Later in the week they will get their next planned upot.
Into 18oz solo cups and a 50-50 blend ewc and used living soil is the current plan.
I hope @Upstate can swing by soon. I have some questions.
This can help long flowers finish faster but smaller plants flip earlier 
just kidding I don’t know the answer just needless info here!
I mixed up some transplanting soil.
used living soil, vermicompost, promix and perlite.
Culled a bunch from the overflow tray.
Hoping @Upstate or anyone who’s used this method could check in.
I’ve got a lot going on here.
Trying to fight the urge to go right into 1 gal containers.
Were at 30 days above ground. 12/12 start
