leaf surface temps are typically 3 degrees colder than the ambient air due to transpiration
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I swear I’m adding a new gadget or two to the whiteboard daily lately. I gotta stop spending cash I don’t have 
lol
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tell me about it…i just spent hundreds on a second tent and more lights a digital microscope… list goes on… i stop at nothing for my passions
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I actually got mine for the kitchen but stole it for the grow room.
Anecdotally I can tell you that I grew in a freezing basement with ancient LEDs that definitely had no IR many years ago and it worked fine.
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Any info, tips, tricks etc. are much appreciated for anyone. I think if this was common knowledge you’d see much much less HELP! posts on every forum. Besides overwatering and over feeding I think this is so many people s issues. I would like to be able to save as many people as possible the trouble.
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Watts give off a specific amount of heat regardless of what they’re running, 750w of HPS is equal to 750 (true) watts of LED. The difference is people (normally) switch to LEDs to lower their power consumption with the added efficacy of LEDs and get the same amount of electrons falling for less input power.
I run around 1000 watts of LED and when they’re all going room temps easily reach 90F+ if I don’t have something counteracting the heat. Winter time I can turn AC off and be 83-85 lights on, summer I have to run AC to counter the heat
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As did I, I had the homegrown hydroponics first Led, had to buy four to make 1000w . Cost me 522$ EACH! No joke, and we had no clue about this, failed and failed . Fast forward about ten years these are now setup elsewhere and despite the age, blurple etc. they have now produced 3 great crops . It was the lack of heat that killed us time and time again.
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as brought up in the past see below, though i increase my exhaust fan setpoints to pull less air to retain more heat.
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Can’t possibly be as shitty as this:
I think it was $300 for 28w
But yeah, cranking the thermostat or turning down the fan speed are the simplest options.
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During the winter my tent area is around 14c, in early to mid veg when I’m under just the qb I have to run a heater to keep temps up. I don’t trust it’s thermostat though so I run it off an inkbird controller. This allows me to keep my leaf temps around 25c. Humidifier running off an inkbird as well.
Once they are transplanted into larger fabric pots and I get the blumats going I have no issues keeping humidity up. This is also around the time that I’m a little outside the qb footprint, so I pull the heater and add my hps. Mine is in a cool tube and that extraction is run on the same timer as the light. Without the extraction I hit about 28c, with it I average between 23-25c. This works well for my setup.
Summer time tends to not be an issue, I usually run the lights later in the evening and into the night or early in the night to the afternoon depending on my personal schedule and when I have to most time to tend.
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Even with 0 exhaust, my tents never seemed to get warm enough.
I ended up using a small space heater on temp controller in the same room as my tents and the difference was noticable. I’m not jazzed about the extra wattage, but I couldn’t seem to figure it out otherwise. The heater only runs maybe an hour a day.
I used to think low 70s were good temps for veg under LED, but even with high humidity my plants were slow to start. I keep temps at high 70s and low 80s now and the plants are noticably happier.
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I’ve seen a lot of people opt to use small space heaters in fact @MumenRyder . @Foreigner these are very well built, weigh about 30 lbs each, glass diode coverings, nice heat sink etc. just super old technology. They still work all these years later. (10-12 yrs) but that almost 2000$ US after all was said and done to sit in a closet for 10 years really hurt at the time. I’ll get a pic next time I’m over there to show you
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Imo one of the advantages of LEDs is you can often turn them down, hang them closer to the canopy and still get much the same yield (if they are in a rack so they still cover the area).
It means you can maybe run a small heater cos it’s more efficient to use a heater than your lighting to warm the space
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My wife is still looking for ours… 
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That can happen early on since it’s likely dimmed and not running at full power. What I do during the seedling phase is use 2 heat mats that completely cover the floor of my tent and set them on a timer to turn on when the lights go out because the tent gets below 65 degrees at night. Then turn off at lights on. Sometimes even that’s not enough so I have to run a mini 250 watt space heater near the intake when I’m sleeping, only when I’m home of course with all the necessary fire safety precautions. The Honeywell Heat Bud is great, non-chinese brand and with an overheat shut off and tip over shut off.
How big or how many watts is your LED? I’m using a 300W and found there to be TOO much heat once you get to about 60% power, but luckily the driver can be mounted outside so that balances it out. When I run it at full power without the driver inside, the duct fan keeps everything around 77. I am only in a 2x2.5 tent though.
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About the only thing I’ve done right is go all out on the light and equipment … I overkilled with the light… gavita 1700e in a 4x4, tent is 44 x 44 light is 42 x 42 
In the winter and colder months just run the exhaust in reverse, pull exhaust out at the bottom of the tent/grow area and fresh air in the top.
The colder dry air will mix with the warm moist air and increase temps and humidity in the room.
You can also recirculate the top mount exhaust into the bottom.
Peace
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Deffo changing your setup from hps cmh and fl to led may take some tweaks
Especially if cold envioent where hps and fl was suited then changing to led , it’s not a simple change over : )
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Even though my thermostat is set at 74-75 for the whole house, I still need a heat mat under my cloner and rooted clones. Without it my cloner would be too cold and my cuttings will take longer to root or may not root at all…
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I also stole the butchers twine 
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