Mites,Thrips, Aphids 'one-n-done' with pics

Ok… first I’d like to thank an ‘Anonymous Friend’ for producing this product. I ask that no members attempt to guess the name, please! He wants to remain anonymous, and that’s how it’ll be, thnx. This recipe is the culmination of literally months of research and work! Not by me…
Here is my entire ‘test’ and the recipe for the product. It is a one-n-done’ spray that kills Mites, Thrips And Aphids . Everything, eggs, larvae, nymphs, and adults!

Title: MTA UltimateUM// A Diatribe with Benefits!

OK, there are a plethora of Organic, eco-friendly, natural products marketed as Mite, Thrip, Aphid control agents. You will notice they all state product x “is exempt from EPA registration under FIFRA 25(b)”. It exempts the formulator from paying the huge dollars and extended period of review. The EPA receives minimal money for these registrations, as the individual states administer labeling, mill taxes, etc.

Of course, there are strict compliance rules, and both the active and inert ingredients MUST comply with the EPA lists:

US EPA – 22 Oct 14

Minimum Risk Pesticides - Inert Ingredient and Active Ingredient Eligibility…

Ingredients found on both the Minimum Risk Active Ingredient and List 4A “Inert Ingredients of Minimal Concern” lists may be used either as an active or an inert ingredient. Otherwise, it can only be used based on the list it appears on.

Herein lies the rub…the ACTIVE ingredients are certainly viable. However, the inert ingredients are subpar for use in a contact critical insecticide. You see, the surfactant/emulsifier is CRUCIAL in both suffocating (plugging of trachea/spiracles) and delivering other active ingredients to the insect cuticle.

Now, there is an excellent non- ionic surfactant/emulsifier called Polysorbate 80. Ironically, the EPA has conducted extensive studies of the compound’s safety profile…It is used in ice cream,eye drops,mouthwash, salad dressings, a multitude of shampoos, skin creams and other cosmetics; in FACT it is actually used in small quantities in HUMAN Vaccines as a stabilizer! SO, WHY isn’t it on the EPA’s minimal risk list???

Hmmmm, let’s follow the money. It’s just a fact that the EPA receives the vast majority of fees from multiple large corporations that continuously develop and register new compounds, particularly AG chemical companies. Nothing wrong with that, we all benefit from advances in the plant sciences. It’s just that they have NO interest in seeing 25(b) components listed that will ACTUALLY be effective enough to COMPETE with commercial insecticides !

Understand, I have NO issues with any of the MULTITUDE of companies marketing insecticides labeled under the FIFRA 25(b) exemptions,they are doing the best they can! It’s just that they are all hobbled with less than stellar products. You have seen where their instructions include spraying every other day, or relying on ‘preventative’ applications. These products are fairly expensive by nature, and I’ve seen them priced up to $300/Gal (Really?).

I realize that neither I, nor anyone else, will ever be able to formulate and SELL a superb product under FIFRA 25(b)in the United States BUT, I SURE AS HELL can tell you how to make your own!! LOL, I like to call it MTA UltimateUm ! You call it whatever you like! All components of this formulation are provided (My ethanol is 100% and ‘Lab’ grade, but you can easily substitute Everclear [ 95% ethanol] 190 Proof). The only deviations from the EPA lists are Ethanol vs. Isopropyl Alcohol and the Polysorbate 80 Food Grade vs ‘crap’.

OK, so you listened to my diatribe….YOU DESERVE THE BENEFIT !

The only equipment necessary is a pitcher, a hand blender, a scale to weigh the Citric and L-Malic acids, and accurate calibration pitchers to measure your liquids. I will include pictures formulating in a glass beaker, so you can see what’s going on.
Ingredients are;
Cottonseed oil ( food grade frying oil bought online, 96 ozs)Amazon-Glicks-$25.99
Distilled water (I use deionized just because I have it available)
Polysorbate 80 Food Grade (I bought a 32 oz [900 gm] bottle online)Amazon-Velona-$32.00
Food grade Citric acid (many sources online)
Food grade L-Malic acid (many sources online)
100% Ethanol (Hey, Everclear will work just fine at 190 proof). Let’s send the little basturds out with a buzz!
NOTE: Polysorbate 80 is available world wide, Many brand names exist (Tween 80…etc). Food grade formulations are readily available and should be used in this formulation ! I’ll be using Everclear.

Formulation:

  1. Measure out 18 fluid ounces (532ml) of distilled water and pour in you pitcher/beaker.
  2. Weigh out 50 grams of EACH, Malic and Citric acid, and add to pitcher.Dissolve in water with your hand blender.
  3. Add 25 fluid ounces(739ml) of cottonseed oil to pitcher.
  4. Add 150 ml of Ethanol to pitcher.
  5. Add 5 fluid ounces(148ml) of Polysorbate 80 Food Grade and hit it with your hand blender for 2-3 minutes, and you will have a beautiful, stable emulsion ready to go ! This formula will yield about 52 ounces (1538ml)of MTA UltimateUM. By halfing all ingredients, you’ll have about 26 ounces(769ml) for short term storage…you can mix more at will with the ingredients on hand. That means with the 96 oz of cottonseed oil, you will yield 197 ozs ( 1.5 GALLONS/5826ml) of concentrate! (I would only prepare one batch at a time to keep it fresh and available!)

Application Instructions:

Application rate is 1.5-2 ounces (45-59ml) per Gallon (3.785Liters) water. Apply directly to all leaf and plant surfaces.You will immediately note how nicely it spreads! (That’s the idea !) Ideal coverage is a fine droplet application as provided with a fogger, airless paint sprayer, or even a small handpump sprayer…you get the idea, you are looking for uniform coverage but no need to drown the plant!

MTA UltimateUM will kill all life stages (eggs, nymphs, adults) of mites, thrips and aphids. This is a ‘one and done’ application. If you covered them they’re DEAD! There is no need for multiple applications OR preventative sprays. You see em, you spray em, you forget em !

It’s advisable to wear eye protection, long sleeve shirt, and latex or nitrile gloves during applications. The acids and alcohol are eye irritants, and some people may have skin sensitivity to exposure.

Precautions:

Would avoid applying to foliage that has previously been treated with strong Copper, wetable sulfur, or lactic acid (milk) fungicide treatments.

In greenhouse/indoor grows it’s always best to apply during the early ‘light’s out’ period. In outdoor grows during hot weather, it’s always best to apply at early dusk.

Polysorbate Residual?

Our 0.16% Food Grade Polysorbate 80 breaks down exactly the same as all vegetable oils applied to plants (sunlight/light,oxidation and hydrolysis). If you use on buds 7-10 days prior to harvest, you can use a hydrogen peroxide (strong oxidizer) bud wash to remove all oils and emulsifiers immediately!

Fungicidal Activity

It’s a well known fact that Citric, and especially L-Malic acids, are anti-microbial, so some control of mildews or molds may be observed. My intentions are that MTA UltimateUM be used to control soft bodied insects. Hypochlorous acid is a much more potent candidate for eliminating all Fungal, Bacterial, and Viral pathogens safely in plants.

Plant Safety

MTA UltimateUM had been applied to fruits, vegetables, cannabis, and a multitude of ornamentals without any phytotoxic events. Obviously, I can”t say that ALL plants have been tested. If you are concerned, do a test spray on small area.

Product Storage

the concentrated MTA would last indefinitely if stored in an indoor cabinet

Well, there it is on a silver platter, you can take it or leave it !!!

I’ll be mixing up a ‘half-batch’ for the test, with pics, of course!

Ok, here we go folks.
first pic is 9 fluid ounces of distilled water(1/2 recipe)

next 2 pics are adding 25grams each of the Malic and Citric acid

this pic is dissolving/mixing them into the water

pic of the first 2 ingredients dissolved

next pics are adding the 12.5 ounces of Cottonseed Oil

next pic is adding the Everclear 75ml

pic of how it’s looking so far

next up is adding the 2.5 oz of Polysorbate 80 I measured it out into a ‘measure/calibrated shotglass’

next pic is everything well blended (about 3 minutes)

last pic, ready for use/storage

That’s it folks! I’ll let you know how well it works tomorrow.

OK, treatment is done and there IS a noticeable difference, eggs are dissolved and no sign of the larvae, nymphs, or adults. This was on a couple ‘test leaves’ We sprayed the whole room, and these couple leaves, I took before & after pics.Sorry about the zoom in, this is as clear as I can get with the phone camera

Based on observations, I’d say this stuff works! Now to check periodically for any return of these F’ers! .lol
Lastly, but again, lol this is not something I made. It’s been made and tested on any number of plants, including Ganja. I was made aware of it and given the recipe to share with all growers, OG or not!

Very immature eggs covered by the oil will suffocate and dissolve quite quickly. Older more mature eggs will tend to turn orange and desicate in about 48 hrs.
The oil acts as the sufficant, and the ethanol/malic, citric component penetrates the cuticle and delivers a ‘death blow’ to insect metabolic capabilities…

I wasn’t going to put this in a stand-alone tute posting until the full test had been done. Otherwise I’d left it in my Circus thread and just told folks of results, good or bad, if any. I had faith in the person’s word, otherwise I wouldn’t spent the cash on the ingredients! lol But, ‘due diligence’ called for things to run out the course.
I liked the ‘instant kill’ and also the way the newer eggs were dissolved immediately. According to the instructions, the older eggs will turn orange/brown and die in a couple days time. I saw today that was the case, a lot of orange/brown eggs.
And even though we know there are more of the Mites around, we saw none on the plants.
But when we do lol they’ll die!

Last thing, please respect the ‘anonymous’ wishes to remain un-named, thnx!

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Read and bookmarked! Thanks brudda @JohnnyPotseed I love a good diy recipe… saves so much money and often works better than the shit with labels!
Please pass my thanks on to the anonymous researcher s well

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Exactly cuz! and this stuff did as my friend ‘anonymous’ said it would! The man did all the work, and wants none of the accolades… a ‘true giver’ with a big heart! I only did 1/2 recipe and have enough for many treatments, even if no more are needed! lol It might be a good idea to find other growers in your area to share the initial expense (which isn’t that much, really)and share the product with!
I’m passing out small bottles of it to others, myself. lol

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Thank you so much!

Last year and the year before, the only two years I have grown since 1975, I did have issues with both thrips and aphids. I’m with you and @HeadyBearAdventures, diy is the way to go whenever feasible, and this seems eminently so. Save money and fuck labeled products, once again, as feasible! Oh hell yes!

Thank your anonymous source for me as well!

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lol cuz DIY is about the best way to me, and I do that a LOT! :scream: :joy: :crazy_face: :+1:
my lighting, soil, nutrients, and now even the pesticide! lol

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Awsome write-up @JohnnyPotseed. Definitely bookmarklet aswell. I love homemade remedies, especially when they’re organic. Thank you(and anonymous) :slight_smile:
Do you think you dare do a soil drench with this?

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I wouldn’t do a ‘drench’ so much as maybe a simple light spraying while going at the plants.

Top of soil, sides of pots, and floor around them @blowdout2269

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Thanks for this @JohnnyPotseed I love a good diy recipe myself!

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Thank you for sharing this. One question, what is the shelf life once it is mixed and ready to use?

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Got to try this. Book marked.

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@Tejas go up to the section marked Product Storage there you’ll see it will last indefinitely stored in an indoors cabinet.

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I doubt you’ll regret trying it cuz! I’m not promoting something outta the blue. It’s ‘tried n true’ lol

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My bad, I read completely over it. 🫣

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I’m close to restarting after a spider mite shut down, where was this a few months back? :wink:

Thank You “anonymous” and @JohnnyPotseed for passing this along.

Johnny, what was approximate cost of all ingredients? Hope I didn’t miss that…

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No cuz, I didn’t post what I paid, sorry. It all ran less than $100. 00 for all ingredients.
That’s also part of why I say to find other growers near you, to share the initial cost, and also the product. Since it’s a ‘one-n-done’ the chances are high you’ll have it sitting on a shelf for awhile!
But, under ‘Product Storage’ you see, it can last indefinitely

Unmixed, the different ingredients can last even longer. Also the reason I only mixed a half-batch! lol

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I was asking the same thing, I’m 3 days back into flower after losing my 2nd and 3rd harvests to them. I’ve started using a plant derived silica and sns 209 to try to battle them systemically, this sounds like a great foliar.
@JohnnyPotseed, What are your feelings/ experiences with it as a preventative versus a knock down & wipeout? I know a commercial grower that has been fighting bugs forever and if this is as good as it sounds, it may help save his ass.

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If you read everything closely cuz, you’ll see there is no need of a preventative. That is the mindset instilled by the companies that can’t make the true ‘one-n-done’!
Under Application Instructions:

"There is no need for multiple applications OR preventative sprays. You see em, you spray em, you forget em

It’s not a poison that sets on the plant waiting cuz. It’s a contact killer’ - residue on the plant, won’t be effective. If you mix up only half the recipe, it gives you enough for quite a few treatments, depending on the size of your grow. You treat, then store, until you see em again… then you simply repeat. If you think you didn’t get em all with the first spraying, then by all means. feel free to do another treatment. That’s up to you.

Rose did the spraying here, and let me tell yas lol she saturated the hell outta them plants! lol We mixed up 2gallons of spray and she used it all!

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Now with that said, I’m not about to go thinking we got em all the first time around here, either cuz. I’m sure there’s more of em around. She sprayed everything, the entire plant, top of soil, sides of pot, floor around… you get the picture. lol
I still figure we’ll need to spray again soon, to get them F’ers that were on walls. ceilings etc. but we’ll do as suggested and wait a bit.

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Less than a Hundred… cheap when ya think about it.

I’ll be going this direction in the event I see any issues in the future.

Thanks again…

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Yep cuz, I figured as much as I spend on damn pesticides that barely hold em at bay, give something else a try. It IS better that the commercial products!

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