PizzaWizard's grow log

To introduce myself, I have been growing for a couple of years. Mostly indoors in a small tent and one failed outdoor grow due to russet mite infestation. I will use the first post to explain my setup and methods. The rest of the thread will serve as an ongoing grow diary.

Tent:
2’x3’x6’ from AC infinity (odd size but I had a perfect spot for it). Exhaust fan, controller, carbon filter are all AC infinity as well.

Lights:
AC infinity IONGRID T22 130W (bar style lighting is probably preferable, but this is what I got)

Par 38 light bulbs: I use these a lot for various things. Starting plants, under, canopy lighting, and for covering the edges of my tent which don’t get enough light. Pretty versatile and cheap lights that I think not many people know about. You can buy them at any hardware store, I once found them on sale at Lowe’s and bought a ton.

*PAR stands for “Parabolic Aluminized Reflector”. The 38 refers to the diameter of the bulb. It has nothing to do with the intensity of the light.

Heater: Since I grow in my garage I need extra heat in the winter. A ceramic reptile heater behind the oscillating fan has worked great for me. I sometimes have to use several.

DIY sub irrigated planter.
I use only PH balanced tap water in the reservoir to prevent it from getting nasty. Compost teas and recharge get top watered in. Worth pointing out that the valve is unnecessary and could simply be a hole in the side.

Build tutorial 45 gallon tote and added a valve for overflow

At the bottom of the tote is 4 inch perforated drain pipe. One end connected to the overflow with wire.

Added 1 inch pipe for filling the reservoir


Bottom layer is 50/50 peat moss and vermiculite for wicking, my dirt will go on top. The idea being I can dump about 5-10 gallons of water in the perforated drain pipe and it will slowly wick into the dirt above. The overflow allows to see when the reservoir is full.

Soil:
I have made my soil using 2 different recipes and both have worked well for me. I source my worm castings from a local worm breeder.

Build-a-soil:
Simply buy the kit and follow the directions. Kind of expensive but you can re-use the soil for years if you treat it well. I am on my 5th grow with the soil in my grow tent.

Coots mix

1/3 Sphagnum Peat Moss
1/3 Aeration - (3/8 pumice is best but difficult to source cheaply. I use a mix of pumice, perlite and vermiculite)
1/3 Worm castings
(per cubic foot of coots mix add)
1 cup kelp meal
1 cup neem meal
1 cup of lime
1/2 cup Gypsum
3 cups basalt dust

Amendments and products:
Each grow I top dress with amendments 3-4 times. Usually starting when I flip to flower. 4-5tbsp down to earth and 1-2tbsp bat guano per plant. No more than once every 2 weeks. I honestly just go with my gut but I should probably get a soil test.

Down to earth 4-8-4:

Bat Guano:

Realgrowers recharge: Use as recommended. Can use it every watering if you wish.

PH down: I use general hydroponic brand.

Compost tea recipe:
I apply this about 2 times each grow. It gives the plants some nutrition but the real benefit is supercharging your soil microbiology.

Tea Recipe

5 gallons of water
worm castings or compost (fresh is best) - 1 to 2 cups
kelp - 2 tbsp
alfalfa meal - 2 tbsp
bat guano - 1 tbsp
1tbsp molasses
Bubble for 24-48 hrs

DIY “Air Lifter”
for brewing compost tea. Youll have to Google how to make one because I didn’t take good pics.

DIY aeroponic cloner.
Once again just look up guides on Google. I don’t like humidity domes, instead I run a humidifier to keep humidity about 68-70.

DIY wetting agent
This is useful for when your soil drys out and becomes hydrophobic or just for improved wicking. Cheaper than Therm x-70 or yucca extract.

10 soap nuts soaked in a quart of hot water. Strain out the nuts and save the liquid. Use at a rate of 1tbsp per gallon.

Greenhouse
For outdoors I have a small 6x8 greenhouse that I bought from harbor freight. The exhaust fan is a Vevor 14 inch shutter fan. Last summer I had 4 cannabis plants and a few peppers out there. I ended up aborting the cannabis due to russet mites and the cannabis plants were so big I couldn’t reach the back with any sprays. My yard is pretty shady so it’s not ideal. Next year I plan on doing only 2 cannabis plants and more peppers tbh. My peppers really thrived out there.


Some photos from my last few grows

Romulan from Next Generation Seeds



Black Domina clone from an unknown source.

Avalon and Blue Dynamite from Next Generation Seeds



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Currently I am growing the strain Malawi from Ace Seeds

Day 5

Day 13

Day 19

Day 25 (first topping)

Day 32 (Second topping)

Day 36

Day 43 (flip to flower)

Day 49

Day 55

Day 60

Day 77 (current pic, day 36 of flowering)

Whoops I just realized I uploaded thumbnails instead of the full size pics. I will post better quality pics in future updates

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I really like your SIP planter. Thanks for posting the tutorial! How long have you been using that style?

Im also using a very similar soil mix and DTE rose and flower. Good stuff.

Whats your tap PH if you dont mind me asking? Im around ph 7 out the tap and havent needed to PH in years. Only really get issues if i over water. Ive been wondering if id need to start if i switch to a SIP

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This is my first grow using the SIP actually. Prior to this I used a similar sized fabric pot. The SIP has been working great though. When the plants were small I didn’t use the reservoir much because I was nervous of overwatering. Once the plants got bigger I just pour 5 gallons in the reservoir about once a week or so.

My tap water is quite high which is why I pH balance. I think it comes out my tap around 8. I figured out I need about 0.75ml of pH down per gallon to get it down to more like 6-.6.5ish. I don’t even check it anymore because it’s always the same.

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Loving your diy and set-ups in general @PizzaWizard !

:hugs:

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I like what ya got goin on here
Think I’ll have a seat! :slightly_smiling_face:

Btw, my spring water is about the same.
1/2 tsp of citric acid crystals per 5gal gets me to 6.5 every time. And it holds! Just a thought.
Cheap, easy, organic…and it could help neutralize chlorine and chloramine levels.
:stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye:

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Bruh… you had me at Pizzawizard, what a great name. Plus all your recipes are ones I’ve been thinking about doing, all in one place too. Thanks for sharing the info there’s a bunch of tools I need in my belt. I look forward to seeing whatever else you get in to.

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This grow got out of control. The stretch has been insane on that left plant. I may thin it out some more still.

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Not much of an update. Just waiting on this long ass sativa. They say 10-12 weeks flowering time and today is exactly 6 weeks.

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Looking pretty good. Lots of bud sites going on. Hope they put on lots of weight for you.

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Trimming a lot of lower branches off this morning. Should have done this already tbh. I’m worried this whole grow is going to be larfy with how bushy the plants got.

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Overall there doesnt seem to be too many dark zones. You could clip off some of the lowers just at lights out to minimize the shock on the plant if that helps

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Thanks that’s reassuring. Maybe it’s not as bad as I think it is.

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Hey PizzaWizzard,
I’m not sure you will get the intensity from the PAR38’s to break the larfy bud stage.
I think for house plants, or seed sprouting, clones, would be fine and all.
Bud building, needs a bit more intensity, than PAR’s can offer.
The Inverse Square Law, eats their breakfast.
I’m NOT slagging your set up AT ALL!!
I do not like to use manufacture information, but it can offer some understanding.

*[PAR: Measurement for Plants
The value of PAR is right there in the name: photosynthetically active radiation.

PAR refers to the range of light your plants use for photosynthesis. PAR wavelengths range from 400-700nm. The PAR output of a lamp is often measured using a PAR meter to identify the number of photons emitted within the PAR range.

Now, when you select a grow light, your ultimate goal is to provide your plants with sufficient PAR. But it’s important to understand that a PAR measurement alone cannot tell you how much quality light actually reaches your canopy. There are a couple other metrics you should know.

PPF
First, there’s PPF, or photosynthetic photon flux. This metric expresses the number of PAR photons a light fixture emits per second.

In the lighting industry, we measure PPF as part of our commitment to accuracy. Traditionally, there has been some fluctuation in light quality in grow lights from moment to moment. This fluctuation isn’t enough for your eyes to perceive a flicker, but it has been enough to warrant additional measurements so you know how many PAR photons your lamp emits on average.]*

I hope this helps with anyone trying to wrap our heads around the various light sources, for the buds we all desire!!
All the best to you and your fine project.
webe

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THESE ARE OLD PICTURES

Actually I have grown a plant using nothing but par38 bulbs and it does work if you pack them close enough.

This was my setup with 9 bulbs. Roughly 175 watts of LED light if you do the math.

And the resulting plant

I don’t recommend doing this tbh, but it was a fun experiment. For my current setup I’m mainly using them as under-cannopy lighting.

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You can always get a better light if the larf is really an issue with this grow. Looks pretty good so far at least. If you don’t want to buy a new light you can veg less next grow as I’m sure you know. They’re looking good from here though.

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@PizzaWizard what strain sre you growing in this last photo? It could also be the genetics at play which will lead to larfy flower. As stated previously does it really matter or is it more of just being able to grow dense flower more then anything?

This was a conversation both myself and luxton were having yesterday as this is something we are trying get a handle on

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Would be nice to run them through a Kill O Watt meter, to see the current they use.
Lovely buds from them for sure!
Chasing costs for me to reduce, has always been a driving force in my grows.
Anyway, wish you all the best!!

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Sorry I’m a bit lost on this conversation now. My original comment about larf I was just trying to say I think I vegged my current grow too long. My plants became too bushy and I’m worried there will be a lot of larf because of it. The plants still have 6 weeks or more left before they finish so I will see what happens.

The plant I grew using only par38 bulbs was Laughing Buddha from Barney’s Farms.

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In the case of PAR38 bulbs it stands for “parabolic aluminized reflector”.

Not the same PAR as “Photosynthetic Active Radiation”