ReikoX's Workshop 2021

Got my soil test back results back today, and I thought I would take a few moments to share a little bit of what I have learned in the past couple months. The recommendations I’m using are from Steve Solomon’s book, The Intelligent Gardener.

CEC
Before you can even look at a soil test, you have to understand cation exchange capacity. Some of you may remember from high school chemistry that elements are made up of ions that carry with them a charge. Positively charged ions are called cations (pronounced cat-ion) and negatively changed ions are called anions. The major cations in soil chemistry are calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg), potassium (K), sodium (Na), and hydrogen(H). These cations are attracted to negatively charged soil particles (usually clay) similar to the way a balloon sticks to a sweater. These cations can then be exchanged by the plant for other cations, usually the plant exchanges H from H2O for whichever cation it is in need of. The total number of cation exchange sites is the cation exchange capacity in milliequivalents per gram (meq). One meq of one cation will push out one meq of another cation.

Another thing to note is some of the units are given in pounds per acre and some are given in ppm. An acre is assumed to weigh 2000000 pounds, therefore 1 pound per acre is 2 ppm. In the discussion below, I have converted everything to ppm as I think it makes more sense than pounds per acre.

So let’s take a look at my soil test results. I added a column to the right so we could compare the previous testing cycle to the current one.

Total Exchange Capacity
When you get you soil test results back, you will get a total exchange capacity (TEC) reading back. This is the total number of exchange sites for the five major cations in soil chemistry, Ca, Mg, K, Na, and H. This is how much nutrients the soil can hold on to, any excess cations will push off other cations from the exchange site and wash away into the subsoil (or in our case runoff). Since my soil has a pH above 7.0 and has a high Ca content, it would be classified as a calcareous soil. This type of soil requires a different kind of soil test, AA8.2, to calculate the correct Ca value. Using the AA8.2 Ca value, I recalculated my TEC accordingly (not shown on the comparison). My previous TEC was 23.43 and it went up slightly to 26.7 this time. However, when I use the AA8.2 Ca values, my new TEC becomes a more believable 14.7.

pH
The next number you will look at on your soil test is the pH. If you recall, pH stands for potential hydrogen and it is directly related to the number of H cations attached to the exchange sites. A soil with a pH greater than 7.0 will not have any H cations, while a soil with a pH below 7.0 will begin filling up these exchange sites with H. My pH went up slightly from 7.2 to 7.3 despite my addition of sphagnum peat moss and fermented fruit juices. The high pH does make some of the micronutrients less available, but otherwise is not detrimental to the soil. No correction is desired.

Organic Matter
The organic matter component of the soil comes from compost, castings, or general breakdown of plant materials. This mix was made with 33% compost and is very full of worms, so it is not surprising that my organic mater is high. It rose slightly from 46.10% to 47.13%. Organic matter generally contributes to the N production of a soil as organic matter breaks down it gets converted into nitrates. With such a high organic matter component, no additional nitrogen is required.

Sulfur
Sulfur is an anion used in plant nutrition. Elemental sulfur can also be used to lower the pH of soils with a pH above 8.0. The S on my test dropped significantly from 216 ppm to 166 ppm. Many of the micro nutrients I will be adding, as well as the gypsum are sulfates that contain S. With a TEC greater than 10, I am targeting 35 ppm S, so no additional sulfur is required.

Phosphorous
Phosphorous is another anion used in plant nutrition. Phosphorous in the soil is usually quickly tied up with calcium and iron making it unavailable to the plant. The soil test measures phosphate (P2O5), to get the elemental P value, multiply that value by 0.44. My phosphate rose from 624 to 1003, perhaps due the microbes in the Mammoth P. Since my target level is P = K, no additional phosphorous is required.

Calcium
Calcium is usually the most abundant cation in a soil. It is used in the plant for cell walls as well as other metabolic functions. My calcium actually increased over last time from about 3640 ppm to 4108 ppm, likely more calcium carbonate was freed up with organic acids exuded from the plant roots and microbes. Since I have a high calcium content and my pH is above 7.0, I will be using the calcium value from the AA8.2 test as previously mentioned, that brings my Ca value down to 1806 ppm. I didn’t get the AA8.2 test last time. My target is 85% of the TEC, so I am short about 693 ppm of Ca. To get to this level of calcium would cause me to go over the recommended maximum amount of gypsum, so I will just add the maximum recommended amount of gypsum. 500 grams of gypsum is required.

Magnesium
Magnesium is a cation required for metabolic processes, particularly photosynthesis. Mg is a large molecule and excess Mg in the soil has a tendency to tighten it up and not allow for enough oxygen in the roots. My magnesium went up from 335 ppm to 450 ppm. My target value for magnesium is 5% of the total TEC, so I have an excess. Because adding quite a bit of Ca, it should help to push off some of that Mg from the exchange sites. Remember, one meq of Ca will push off one meq of Mg.

Potassium
Potassium is another cation used by the plant, particularly in the generative (flowering) phase. My K went down from 464 ppm to 409 ppm. The target value for K is non linear and done by a lookup table in Solomon’s book. According to the table for my TEC, 14.7 I need 190 ppm, so I am well over the target value. Again the Ca cations will push out K cations with the addition of gypsum.

Sodium
Sodium is a cation that is used very sparingly in plants. My sodium dropped slightly from from 111 ppm to 43 ppm. My target value is 0, though I plan to do some foliar applications of sea salt for “trace” minerals.

Boron
Boron is used in very small amounts, but is vital to calcium uptake. My Boron didn’t really change much from 1.35 to 1.51 ppm. My target value is 2 ppm, leaving me short about 0.5 ppm. 2.5 grams of borax is required.

Iron
Iron is generally abundant in soils. It should be in mine as well because I used basalt rock dust. According to my test Fe stayed pretty much the same going from 65 ppm. to 63 ppm. My target value is 75 ppm, leaving me short about 12 ppm. 20 grams of iron sulfate is required.

Manganese
Manganese becomes less available as pH levels increase. My current levels went up from 11 ppm to 26 ppm thanks to the additions of manganese sulfate. Since my target is 50 ppm, I still need another 24 ppm. Since the application limit is 5 ppm, 7.75 grams of manganese sulfate is required.

Copper
Copper is another nutrient that is used in small quantities. My current value rose from 1.51 ppm to 2.19 ppm. This is likely from the addition of TM-7. My target value is 5 ppm leaving me short about 3 ppm. Since the application limit is 2 ppm, 4 grams of copper sulfate is required.

Zinc
Zinc is the final micronutrient I will be trying to balance this round. My current value rose from 6.69 ppm to 13.44 ppm. My target value is 1/10th of P, so 19 ppm leaving me short about 6 ppm. Since there is a 5 ppm application limit, 7.25 grams of zinc sulfate are required.

Without going over the safe application limits, my soil prescription this cycle looks like this:

500 grams gypsum
2.5 grams borax
20 grams iron sulfate
7.5 grams manganese sulfate
4 grams copper sulfate
7.25 grams zinc sulfate

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Indeed a thorough approach!! Congrats! A minor doubt, if you don’t mind…

You mean sea salt water, correct!! Would we have a way of decreasing sodium without damaging other possible nutes, (I mean avoiding boiling) such as boiling the water which might kill off all the intended purpose and or benefits!
Really nice, and unlike you, I’m like the sorcerer’s apprentice, mixing a bunch of these elements (haven’t found basalt but gypsum and some type of bokashi (ash based?) yep!
Thanks for all the data!! :hugs: :pray:

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Yes it’s called sea-90 it’s a sea salt, yes I would have to add it to water for a foliar spray. Na comes with a lot of amendments like fish and kelp, so that is likely where mine came from. I use RO water, that removes the sodium (among other things) from my water.

I want to avoid Na in the soil, although plants can tolerate about 3% TEC as Na. I would much rather save those exchange sites for K.

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Going to have to read this a few times wow

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on another site someone grew plants in a salt water marsh wetland as an experiment on land they owned. The plants actually thrived in the salt water marsh and they pulled in a healthy harvest at the end of the season.

I thought it was interesting that cannabis can tolerate actual sea water.

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Caution… OG crossing.

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1100+ posts later, yes, yes there is. :sweat_smile:

Waddup ReikoZ-san. :wave:

:evergreen_tree: :notes:

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which is weirder still since they are “heavy feeders” & can tolerate high sodium. makes me wonder about taste & whatnot…how do they express in a marshy environment.

IIRC Jamaicans sometimes grow on “rafts” of compost & reeds, truly old school natural hydro.

:evergreen_tree:

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:wave: Thanks for stopping by, next year I’ll keep my thread more grow related and less dibs and t-shirts. :grin:

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Don’t sell your topic short- your brief writeup on soil analysis and CEC did more for my understanding than the months of late-night reading I did on the topic. Thank you.

I come for the hardcore technical details, but I stay for the star wars jokes.

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Planted 10 GWK x JLo and 10 JLo F3 seeds.

With the GWK x JLo seeds I plan to pollinate the females with the GWK x JLo plant I reversed from the solo cup competition. Once I find the female autos I will transplant them into to finish.

With the JLo F3 seeds I will be reversing some females to collect pollen. Once I have collected the pollen from the females, I will run a Beam’s test searching for the plants that have CBD in them and smell the most like Juanita la Lagrimosa. I will use that pollen on another batch of JLo F3 seeds I will pop in a few weeks.

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I think all that’s required is a highlighting feature lol. Like a text book. Highlight the useful stuff for the test, the rest is there if you care to read it.

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man…i thought I understood it fairly well until he brought pH into it… sheesh now I am confused. I might actually have to read it before the chess puzzles and while still straight :flushed:

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Yeah that pH bit kind of blew my mind too. Now it makes sense why we add agricultural lime to soil to raise the pH. The Ca cations push off the H cations, thus raising the pH! :exploding_head:

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What T-shirt do you have on today?

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One I already showed. I have a couple more that are too small, otherwise I’m about done with them.

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Yeah…but that’s a soil thing. Not the way I usually think about it which is more like with hydro or coco where you aren’t dealing with basic soil pH. Makes me question whether the things like Recharge/VAM would have the same affect. Not all soils are basic though :slight_smile: So suspect they should.

edit- to clarify here. Suspect that Coco/perlite and perhaps hydro could benefit from VAM/Recharge May not have the same benefit for basic vs acidic soils. if you could keep ift from cloggin nozzles. not really an issue in flood tables though

and +1 on the gif :slight_smile:

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Last night I measured out my amenents for this cycle. First I measured out the gypsum in a takeout cup. Then I would measure out the next amendment in another cup and pour 8n the other cup back and forth a couple times to mix it.

Then I added about twice the volume of vermicompost in a gallon zip lock bag and the mineral mix. I mixed it all throughly until it was a homogenous gray color.

Before I started mixing everything up, I watered the beds. Next I evenly spread the compost mixture between the three beds. I gently raked it in the straw mulch layer and sprayed it all down with another gallon of RO water.

This morning they weren’t dead… yet…

A word on the sulfates. These are synthetically made elemental salts. They are approved for use in organic farming with a soil test. In retrospect, I should have worn a mask and gloves. The sulfates are water soluble and a very fine powder. When I was done everything tasted like iron (blood) and copper and zinc (pennies). The Manganese sulfate is prilled (mixed with clay).

GWK x JLo at day 51. These are starting to fatten up, my guess is they will go 70-77 days. Still waiting on the pollen sacks to open, but I stopped spraying.

Free Seed Friday
The way this works is I will post up three packs of seeds. The first three people to comment “dibs” will win a pack. If you have won a pack in the previous four weeks, you are excluded from this giveaway.

This week, up for grabs are three packs of Durban Poison x JLO. These are regular photoperiod plants.

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Ok, I’m in.

DIBS!!!

Edit: BTW, I have 2 Ghost Rose in flower now.

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I like the idea of mixing the amendments together first and think I might try that over what I do now. Also I always wear an approved overkill mask when mixing . Pretty much all of it is bad and in some cases such as silica , very bad for your lungs.

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