I know my small window unit is not air tight, but I filter my cabs.
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That looks awesome, what software do you use to render this?
I have hand drawn plans I need to convert to something I can get realistic renderings of… I don’t visualize 2d as well as I can 3d.
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I use Sketchup for all my models. It’s free and pretty easy to use once you grasp the concept. I have been using it for almost a decade now, so it’s pretty easy for me. I put that together in about 20 minutes. 
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Pressed some Jilly Bean trim. 3.75 grams pre-pressed and wrapped in a ChemX coffee filter.
Room temp 72°F/40% RH.
Plate temps 85°C/85°C, 5:00 press time, two presses.
Yield ~5% , 0.2 grams. Trim always yields low.
SQUISH
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yummy… enjoy the edge of space out… maybe some uncontrollable body movements as it hits home.
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@anon58740919, here is a sneak preview of your SolStix from @Baudelaire . DIY lighting with the SolStix couldn’t be easier. The SolStix is a strip LED PCB, the SolStrip, with a pre-drilled and tapped matching heatsink, the SolSink. They are designed for 1" angle, in my case I went with 1/8" thick aluminum angle. For this build, I plan to run six SolStix 5" apart. They need about 1/2" on either side, so both pieces were cut to 26". I laid everything out and checked my measurements.
Next I measured and pre-punched my holes. A bit of hint here, measure from the inside edge, not the outside edge. The thickness of the material needs to be taken into account. Instead of 1/2" from the inner edge, I did 1/2" from the outer edge. Luckily I just flipped the piece over and re-drilled the holes. I think I forgot the old saying “measure twice and cut once”, my grandpa would be disappointed. 
The SolStix come with hardware for mounting the strips to the heatsinks, but do not come with hardware to connect the heatsinks to the frame. They are tapped for M3 5mm screws. I got some M3 6mm to accommodate the thickness of the angle iron. Each screw was first screwed in lightly, giving some play to get all the holes aligned. After that the screws were each tightened to stabilize the whole frame.
I cleaned each piece of aluminum with some alcohol to remove any oils or contaminants. Using the included hardware, each strip was screwed on to the heatsink with a nylon washer.
Next step was to wire up the SolStrips in parallel using 18/2 solid core wire. Three strips on each side are wired with a wago connector, then both sides connect to the driver with another wago connector.
I hooked up the driver and all systems check out! Next step will be to solder the dimmer to the driver and drill a few holes to hang the light. I’m debating if I want to ditch the CMH and ballast and replace it with this (remote ballast), or just stick it in there like I did with the veg light. 
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A thing of beauty @ReikoX I’m never one for simple design. Very nice clean work there. Can’t wait to get mine started. Mainly been focussed on cobs at the minute because I anticipated doing them first but I may be wrong if my stix arrive before heatsinks. I’ll definitely be bookmarking this post in case I need to reference cheers bro
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I haven’t decided yet. Ideally I will mount the driver where the ballast for the CMH is.
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I drove hubby nuts measuring.
Nice tutorial!
A couple of shots of the Durban Poison with the lights off and a flash.
The girl on the left is showing lots of purple already.
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Just a random shot of the perpetual. Up front is the last run for Jilly Bean #4 at 8 weeks. She’s not as good as the Jilly Bean #2 phenotype. Maybe a better yielder, but the effect and taste are better with the other. The mother has been culled. In the middle is the Zak Haze. The older and more mature this clone gets, the more she seems to express her NLD genetics. I’m tempted to get it tested again. When they first gave the clones, the tests were 21% THC and about 1% CBG. That CBG really is a mind eraser. Last batch seemed more psychoactive and less forgetful. The last time I got some from the dispensary it was tested at 25% THC (no mention of CBG). CBG is an intermediate that is usually transformed into THC or CBD by the plant. Finally int he back is Delicious Candy. This plant is on the chopping block so to speak. If she keeps doing as well as she is here, I will probably keep her around. The best freebie I’ve grown to date.
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Great looking plants.
The vertical racks serve you well.
A freebie keeper? What do you know?
99%
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I’m mixing up a couple of cubic feet of soil (15 gallons). This is a basic no-till recipe. First I got together my base mix: 5 gallons of hydrated sphangum peat moss, 5 gallons compost, and 5 gallons of aeration. The compost consists of 2 gallons of Malibu biodynamic compost and 3 gallons homemade vermicompost with worms. The aeration consists of 4 gallons scoria lava rock and 1 gallon of rice hulls.
First, I dumped out the compost and mixed in my ammendments. I added 1 cup of kelp meal, 1 cup of neem meal, 1 cup of shrimp meal, and 2 cups malted barley powder (not shown). This was then mixed well.
Next I add my minerals to the amended compost. I added 2 cups gypsum, 2 cups oyster shell flour, 2 cups glacial rock dust, 2 cups basalt, and 1 gallon (16 cups) of biochar. Again this was mixed well.
Finally I added the hydrated sphangum peat moss and the aeration. This was all mixed well one final time.
The soil was split evenly into four #5 fabric pots, then a cover crop of clover was sprinkled on the soil and covered with barley straw.
Everything in the recipe brings something to the table. I would like to take the time to provide a brief description of each item and it’s purpose(s). Feel free to skip the rest of this post if youre not interested. @G-paS, @Thegrowguyapple, and @miyagi may find this interesting.
Let’s start with the single most important component of the recipe, compost. Compost brings beneficial microbes as well as providing some nutrition. Compost also provides disease, pathogen, and pest supression. Vermicompost brings everything in compost with even more beneficial microbes as well as calcium carbonate.
The sphangum peat moss brings microbes, water retention, carbon, and a high cation exchange capacity (CEC). This is the source of organic matter that will support the soil food web.
The aeration is what provides the roots with oxygen. The rice hulls provide short term aeration as well as a long term source of silica. And the lava rock is mainly just aeration and a minor source of minerals.
Next we move on to the ammendments. Kelp contains macro and micro nutrients, as well as chelating substances. The neem offers macro nutrients as well as pest suppression. The shrimp provides macro nutrients, calcium carbonate, and chitan. The malted barley powder provides a lot of different enzymes such as phosphatase, chitanase, urease, and amylase.
Finally the mineral mix provides, obviously minerals, but also improves soil texture. The gypsum provides calcium and sulphur. The oyster shell flower provides calcium carbonate and helps balance pH. And the glacial and basalt provide an array of micro nutrients and minerals. The biochar provides a lot of surface area for microbes and increases CEC.
Finally the mulch layer also serves a purpose. The clover are nitrogen fixers, they will absorb nitrogen from the air which when later chopped returns to the soil. The clover will also loosen the soil as the roots begin to grow deeper. The straw mulch keeps the soil moist and provides a home for soil life.
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WOW! Thank you for taking the time to post this. I will now research what some of this stuff is.
I was just going to use goat and turkey poop with hay and wheat straw. I was also wondering if the “water” in the manure pit would make a tea 
Which kind of clover do you plant.
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Its a 12 clover mix from Build a Soil.
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3.75g of bud = 0.2g of wax
1gram of wax is the equivalent to 18.75g of bud i think…
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ReikoX definitely thank you so much for the time you put into that great read . So where do you source everything needed
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Lucky you man! Mine got seized by the goverment. And i don’t think i am getting repos. Seven packs that was…
Best of luck with those seeds man!
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