Based on the specs the 3000K is making ~2.6 ųmol/j, this is very far away from the 3.14 ųmol/j the 5000K makes.
Since cannabis requires a great deal more red light than blue, can we say that the LM301 EVO is purely marketing hype?
Yes.
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I switched from lm301b to lm301h evo in my 4x4 tent and Ive seen improved performance on genetics i have been running for years. Im also, able to run less wattage to achieve better yields. Im no light scientist but for me i base my opinions off of real world results.
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A more efficient blue LED improved genetics?
Nah, perhaps the increase in PAR just showed you what is already there.
I’m noticing all of the Samsung “grow lights” use mostly white and blue LED’s.
I want red.
they have them with reds.
These diodes will likely be the ‘good’ ones for a few years still, LED tech is stalling at microLED. Samsung has a TV using them for $150k.
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The Kingbrite will be difficult to beat on price, how is the reliability?
600W for ~$450 isn’t bad at all, but this one has a bunch of the white/blue. I’m just not sold on using those spectrums for flowering yet.
I’m coming from the world of HID to COB’s, now strips. 600W would be two Meanwell 320’s and (x12) 1190mm strips which would be ~$300 built. Dang. I can beat Ali Baba.
This thing of ours is 4ever polluted with marketing hype big boobs and shiny packages.
Great question
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I have some older QBs from them, they all still work. This rainbow chip came out nice, it was vegged using that light I linked then flowered under the older 3500 & 3000k QBs
I think the main draw with the LEDs is efficiency & heat. I don’t know about umol or PPFD test it all does seem like marketing.
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This is Samsung’s “efficient” chip. It is blue.
The red chips make the same as everyone else that I can see.
If you get a photon meter it will help you understand.
Photone is a free app for your phone, it works well enough to get you into the ballpark.
Cheers!
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… Math and bin choices
fully well could have a AY binned 3000k chip and if one follow that math with lows and highs
2.6v x 0.065a = 0.169w
max ppf for 3000k = 0.557μmol/s
0.557μmol/s / 0.169w = 3.296 μmol/J
Waaaaa a higher output 3000k chip than what they gave as general PPE tech spec when using the high voltage and high output for the MB “mint white” chips
Just saying one has to know what your looking at before making assumptions, also those high end bins your not gonna find on generic strips, there going to the people willing to pay extra $$$ and in mass volume.
Why some manufactures such as HGL say for example that they spend more on just chips alone compare to what cheaper manufactures sell their completed light for that use lesser bin chips.
Also Whites are ment to be augmented with Red diodes, why… cause pure red diodes are more efficient at making red light than a bluechip with phospor coating trying to make red light.
using samsun as an example here is the base tech specs for their LH351H Deep Red (660 nm) V4 chip
and they don’t even have the best red chip.
best light outputs PPFD/power efficiency wise at the moment incorporate white led chips specifically those ones with the cyan “mint” base chips and augmented with pure RED chips to boost the PPF numbers, as its just more efficient to run the whites that takecare of the blue section plus the rest of the spectrum and then boost it all with dedicated reds, the whole the two combine is greater than the parts by themselves.
Doesn’t mean one can’t grow plants with just straight white led chips, or red, or blue, or even green “yes even green which there are some insightful sci research papers on”
And i will address the fake whale in the room that when some manufacture says they are using “whatever chip” say 301h evo chips sure they might but it can either be low or high bin and unless otherwise stating what bins assume its always the generic low “cheap” bin options
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Exactly. OP does not seem to realise most of these lights are relying on more then one diode type to fulfill the spectrum needs.
The IONFRAME EVO is supported by an array of (8) 395 nm UV diodes, (88) 660 nm OSRAM red diodes, and (8) 730 nm OSRAM far-red diodes to complete its full spectrum light output.
Every LED using lm301 diodes I have owned have always had an array of other color diodes.
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Photone is extremely innacurate. It might help comparing the output of 2 different units if using the same phone to measure them. But even then, the numbers are not true readings and ive seen very different reading usjng that app on the very same fixture between 2 different phones. You need a good professional quality photon meter to get true results.
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I agree with your LED comments but I’ve found Photone to be a useful tool. I benchmarked it to my light manufacturers specs and they were pretty damned close. I trust it within a certain margin of error.
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Just to spice up :
For those familiar with R&D cycles, it mean a lot for the stuff that still available ^^
The grow lights aren’t quoted in the article, but the agenda exposed is proper.
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Have you ever compared the readings on your phone to another phone at the same time? My experience was with me and my brother. Im a galaxy user. Hes an iphone user. Very different reading on my light between the 2 phones. So we tested his light and again. 2 very different readings. So, then i was curious and used my girlfriends phone which is the same exact make and model as mine. And different readings again. It just seems very all over the place to me. Just my experience though.
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I saw a video that said the iPhone works a lot better. Some sort of curve graph I don’t recall. The iPhone is certainly not as precise as a real sensor but for my purposes pretty close is close enough.
I have faith in my light manufacturer. I believe their numbers. Their numbers jive with my photone readings.
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You cannot take the “high” marker for reds as they are pushed harder than blues.
I took the lows for both Bridgelux and Samsung, coming up with 2.6 ųmol/J on the Samsung 3000K and the Bridgdleux 2700K.
Remember, Samsung’s claim to fame is blue LED’s not red.
The 4000K is making more PAR than the 3000K and I’m under-driving at any given wattage which means my efficacy is higher than nominal per J as well as the 99% emission rating.
Heat makes LED’s less efficient.
I’m using Photone and it helps me understand the direction my changes are taking. Until I have a more accurate testing device this will be the one I will use, and successfully so.
Besides, I can always buffer my sensor by matching it to another and the app was free.
Guys, look at this for the 2700K Bridgelux:
Now look at the complicated array on the IONFRAME:
Can we find another red that can produce this spectrum with 2.6 ųmol/J?
That’s what I’m after, can we find a better diode than what we have now that isn’t being marketed to us as a high-performance blue LED?
I’m using the 2700K Gen 8 Vero’s for flower:
This is week two, I’ll be raising the fixture tonight due to the new reflectors and a new beam-angle.
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i think the 301h its cheaper and work almost identical as evo, blue mint evo ligth is marketing
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