Alright, I finally had a bit of time to do a quick write up on how I do natural gardening using Brix (sugar) readings as a measurement of plant health to not only help meet the needs but to increase sap production and push them as hard as I can without upsetting them.
To achieve high brix, I need a mix that is high in calcium and magnesium while being low in potassium and phosphorus so all the microorganisms introduced, can multiply and learn to work together to the benefit of the plants. At 1st it seems a little daunting though it is really easy once one gets the hang of it and into a natural rhythm with very few inputs that need to be purchased as nature provides most things already in our back yards…..we just need to know how and when to use them.
So let’s look at what plants require:
Sulphur (life catalyst) applied at 50% of Phosphorus level
Phosphorus (transfers energy and sugars) applied at double the rate of Potassium
Potassium (controls immunity, flower # and size) applied at half the rate of Magnesium
Magnesium (controls photosynthesis and soil oxygen regulation) applied at 1/6th of Calcium
Calcium (cell division) applied 13 times more than Potassium
Silica (sap and nutrient transporter)
Nitrogen (helps build chlorophyll and amino acids)
Aeration (microorganism hotels)
Microorganisms (break down and regulate all nutrients in plant available form)
Now different plants will consume different nutrients depending upon availability and stage of growth……giving the wrong nutrient at the wrong time can and often will stunt growth, lower sugar content and reduce yields. On average, Cannabis has an order of consumption that goes something like this:
Phosphorus -> Potassium -> Nitrogen -> Calcium -> Sulfur -> Magnesium -> Iron -> Trace minerals
While cannabis loves phosphorus & potassium especially in flower, microorganisms hate it and will quit working as they slowly die off so almost all of the phosphorus and potassium is in mineral form to create a better environment for the soil work horses that will break down the minerals as plants ask for it. And since almost all of the inputs I use are collected from around my yard, they vary in nutrient content. Which ones? Who knows unless each is specifically tested and that changes from area to area as well as, the life stage it’s in when it is harvested so you can see that variety really is the spice of life and balance is harmony in soil.
Build mineral soil in 30 gallon fabric pot
Make Lactobacillus serum (LAB)
Collect Beneficial Indigenous Microorganisms (BIM’s) from various places
Make Horsetail Tea
Make seedling mix
Send off soil test to International Ag Labs (IAG) for baseline specifically looking at CEC’s
Plant catgrass & clover to check soil vitality
Keep microbes happy by feeding the soil weekly with nutrient tea
Make Anionic Phosphorus Acid Tea to be given at 21 days old
Make Growth tea – applied weekly as needed from 21 days old until light flip
Put together topdressings: Pre-bloom (week before light flip) & Ripening (last 2 wks)
Make Anionic Calcium Phosphate Tea – applied at light flip
Make Potassium Silicate Tea to increase sap pressure
Topdress with Insect Frass & BIM’s to increase trichome production
Last 2 wks topdress with ripening mix, peat, ewc & perlite covered with dried comfrey and watered in with LAB and Horsetail tea
Special note: Before anything is added, it will 1st be done as a foliar on one plant to check response through Brix (sugar) readings on a refractometer….if there is a positive response (increase sugar) then a foliar followed by a light soil drench will be done; If no or negative response then nothing more is done until the next foliar day.
As I complete the “To Do” list, I will make a write up with pictures of the process to keep this as informative as possible. Now I have noticed that some of these things go by different names now so some of you may already know the processes or at least have been exposed to them though I refuse to change my lingo as I don’t want it to be confused with how they are used now vs when I 1st learned how to use them 25 or so yrs ago though the it is pretty much the same concept
Edit: I decided to not do the veg and fruit ferments this round as its really not needed until the 2nd round