Yup! Some guys just can’t hang with the girls lol Meanwhile, Mr Gnome is cheering the boys on to be the best they can be and doing a mighty fine job at that!
Gonna have to cut back #1 and 2 (the 2 boys in the back) soon
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That is the one thing I don’t like about fabric pots. If you have to transplant, you literally have to tear the roots to get them out. I had to do quite a few this year and they all recovered beautifully though. Well wishes on a speedy bounce back.
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Yeah though they will be replaced with more vigorous roots especially in all of that soil by herself…its more of a pia than anything as these lil fabric pots do not have velcro sides like my 5 and 7 gallon ones
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The boys (#1 and 2) finally received a haircut
Before
Boy #1
Boy #2
What is interesting is the sap on this boy is only up near the tops instead of through the stem like #1 at least in this moment in time.
Nice and even with #7
Ya’ll are probably wondering what the syringe is for…nothing nepharious lol Its my siphon to ensure water flow whenever I turn off the water to the reservoir to mess with the lines - fits perfectly. Anyhow, the cuttings are now prepped to be clones (#1 on left, #2 on right)
We’ll check back on them in ~3-4 days
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Badass. 
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Received the soil report for the remix
Much better ratio’s though the very thing I was trying to lower (sodium) actually went up a bit 
Whelp that’s how it goes sometimes. As for the recommendations…
I’ll have to talk with Luke and find out what Geo-Cal, ReMin and Eden is as well as, see if there is an organic version of Enthuse, Brixblaster and transplant formula otherwise I already have them from the Docbuds Highbrix kit. Anyhow, using what I have and scaling down what to add, I mixed together 5oz soft Rock Phosphate, 2.5oz Carbonized lime (limestone chalk), 3.5grams Manganese Sulphate, 0.88grams Copper Sulfate and 0.88grams Borax
Rolling with it, I set aside 3/4 oz (1/4 oz per boy) and scratched in the rest for the girls big pot then fell into the cabinet breaking one of the girls branches 
I hurriedly taped her up lining the tissues as close as possible
This adds at least a week to her recovery time and just when she was starting to rebound from the transplant too. Instead of sulking I have made up my mind to not mess with any plant on a holiday day and figure that with the extra week in veg, the new amendments “should” be taking affect by the end of her 3rd week in flower…well ideally that is. 9 hrs later (2 hrs into her day) and she looks alright
Still kicking myself in the ass though 
Her clones received their 1st watering in their soil appearing to have settled in getting more green back
I’ll give them a couple more days to adjust then lower the qb120 led light to 18" above them from 3’ (36") so they can start vegging. Meanwhile the clones from boys 1 and 2 are looking great here on day 3 from cutting
Tomorrow I will lift their dome a bit to get fresh air, lowered humidity and let their peat pellets dry out a bit for a few hrs or until they crumple…whichever comes 1st. Whereas their dad’s are looking fantastic as ever
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That’s a 
-load of minerals for a small-ish area(1k sq ft), imo…
What are these 
people trying to do? 
But then again… I’m the one asking you for advice… & your plants don’t lie(very often 
).
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It is though in all fairness they mostly do farm land so all of their recommendations have to be scaled down by weight 
They lie all the time
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Hi. Amazing informative Bio grow thread. I am really amazed by your knowledge 
I got a question. Why are those plants bleeding Red? I understand that its genetics but what actualy cause it? Any element? Or what?
Keep growing they are beautifull
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Excess of tannins are the cause, as to why there are more
than usual tannins on this strand, we would need to ask Bodhi!?
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g’mornin dr.
smoke on that. 
edit:
So i did.
It’s fuckin Dragon 
Blood dude. Obviously Bodhi slew 
a dragon in the Himalayas 
with the shit so you know it’s the bomb.
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I also agree with tannins…astrigent due to high polyphenol content acting as a protectant to the plant. Typically plants have ~15-20% though a tree called Blood wood (type of Teak) has ~80%. Other plants produce red sap like Eucalyptus, Indian Redwood and the Padauk tree…they all get their red sap from a polyphenol called Kino which is used anywhere from staining, resin, antifungal, itch reliever and increase mothers milk. Interesting enough is a tree called Croton Draco that bleeds not from Kino but some sort of latex
Here is a really cool fungus that “bleeds” called Bleeding Tooth Fungus (hydnellum Peckii)
Anyway, some argue that red sap is from an increased amount of anthocyanins giving a pink to dark purple color while others say, its just the sap oxidizing when it is exposed to the air due to excess nutrients…I cannot speak to the anthocyanin but I call bs on excess nutrients as many push their plants though rarely see red sap…sap (sugars) is responsible for moving nutrients around and an increase of root pressure with stored nutrients gives more sap so I can see the confusion.
It seems the red sap comes from Sativa strains and has been seen in Black Colombian, Purple Thai, Hawaiian Snow and Sannies Extrema to name a few… one person claimed they were supposed to get NY Diesel but 1 stood out and it would bleed when cut into it. He dubbed it Bloodweed and crossed it into a White Widow naming it Bloody Widow.
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hawaii 
summary/history of the line from mr. b
• Dragon’s Blood (Hawaiian Sativa × '88 G13/HP)
i have been working on a secret project for a few years, not trying to be sneaky, just wanted to make sure i could pull it off before i spilled the beans. I’m about 75% done and things are going very well. its a new male, a male that brings with it a unique genetic marker. the male and its progeny bleed a dark red/violet high brix sap that resembles blood, along with a very different terpene signature and a beautiful uplifting high. originaly i called it just blood, but to not confuse people with the old Hawaiian sativa of the same name, i renamed the line dragons blood after the dark aromatic tree sap used by magians to ward of negative energies and infuse the work space with positive vibes. the line is based off a unique individual from the pipeline hashplant seeds, i sprouted all 23, and one plant had the red trait, I’m thinking it has hawiian blood ancestry deep in its genetics or it was crossed pollinated by the blood. the line dates from the mid nineties, and was bred by a kind soul with deep roots in islands cannabis heritage, he’s no longer with us but will live on through the seeds. in order to isolate the traits in blood specimen i took a pipeline male and crossed it to the blood, then grew out 33 of those looking for the blood trait, about 30% had the trait. i then took those plants and open pollinated them. the next wave had 50% blood traits. repeat the process, now were up to 70%. f1 hybrids with the line are showing a 50% blood traits. blood expressing hybrids of hybrids are showing 0% blood traits with a limited experiment of only 6 seeds. i think one more ix of the line and it will be pretty dominate, I’m hoping not so dominate that it takes over, the deadly g inbreeding taught me that further is not always better, its about balance and synergy. I’ve grown out the dragons blood hashplant (dragons blood f2 x 88g13hp) twice, she’s a beautiful frosty beauty, with that refreshing effect on the mind, body, and soul. testers with the f3 males are ready, and f4s will be popped soon. I’m not sure if i want the trait to stay within the f1’s and initial hybrid outcrosses or be dominate enough to move more freely into the greater gene pool.
the applications are novel and vast. put a hundred og’s in the room, not an easy task to tell them apart, but if one bleeds red you know which that one is. you can also link the trait to other traits making breeding easier by selecting for colored sap individuals. starting family lines and lineages from this royal blood pool will offer up endless possibilities. with deep gratitude and love, Its my pleasure to offer up this this true breeding scarlet cannabis treasure line for the community and the future…
so @MomOnTheRun are you trying to increase brix because that will increase the sap ?
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Current recipient requests have been added to the main post.
If you’re interested in seeds, when they’re done, make sure your name is there.
If it isn’t, you can private message me, by clicking on my username and then clicking on Message.
Make the subject of your message the initials of the strain you’re interested in and I’ll add you, i.e., SSDD, DBHP, S91, JS, TE, or ALL.
Once seeds are ready to ship our chosen distributor, or I, will message you for an address and to arrange payment of shipping costs; this shouldn’t be more than $5 for most people and we will be trying to consolidate multiple packages if possible to further reduce the cost to recipients.
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Exactamundo! I have discovered that with a brix (sugar) level of less than 3, we only see a tinge of red in the xylem
so we know its there just not enough to REALLY see it ooze…
so far I have only managed to get a brix of 4 and that was on boy #1 well until I dropped it with a kelp foliar though his foliage loved it. This is also a new soil…1st runs suck so I am ok with their levels at the moment.
The Clan
Girly, Girl
I am thinking of topping those 2 tall branches though I will probably just “snap an bend” them as she is recovering from breaking her trunk…I just can’t stretch 2.5’ as much as I like to believe that I can lol
Her rooted clones settling in their 1st pots
The boys
I don’t know how I am going to fit 2 of them in my 2x3x4 veg cabinet…probably severely prune them back and as a last resort, mass clone them though keep back the 1 that rooted and bounced back the fastest.
Soon to be clones of boys #1 and 2
I had to put their dome back on today and add more water to their tray but not bad for 4-5 day cuttings 
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Excellent!! Thank you Sebring 
We’ll figure this out as we set a precedence for forum breeding projects WOOOWWWW!!! Did I just say that? lol I feel so honored to be apart of this…takes a village as they say 
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I remember struggling to get new soil mixes to work at full capacity. The amount of soil life that grows over a year is so huge. Trying to get that much life into new soil can be a real bear.
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It certainly is especially sitting on 2nd yr matured soil though that has 1 more grow left before its used to amend another portion of my long outdoor perennial bed topsoil trenches trying to move away from all of this sand and salty low ph soil for the 3-4 months of the year I can enjoy it…little by little
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…after all my mucking about with soil, worms, poops, minerals, kelps & meals, brewing things that i don’t understand, more-is-better, transplanting blindly into subcool’s uncooked 
mix, et al… I’ve downed a lot of LITFA. 
without the capacity to do ‘real’ comparison testing in any volume or scale, i’ve made a lot of changes without too much of a strategy beyond “c’mon damnit!” and have suffered the consequences.
even going back to basics & force LITFA-injection 
is another change to contend with & evaluate.
peat 'n perlite for now…until i figure it out.
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Less is more
Not many have the space…I am just a glutton for punishment that somehow works out in the end I know a guy that grows in nothing but rice hulls, manure and ewc with fantastic results just playing around…there are so many mixes and variations to those mixes, I have no doubt you’ll find one that you’ll be happy with that works fantastically with your methods and environment just hang in there Perhaps start with a mellow premix like Motherearth Groundswell and use notil methods to build it up?
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