Not likely ill be back in the water, but you never know. Been out damaged for years. I got more than my share. Where I live was pretty void of crowds into the 80s. Boated in to some great surf too. New custom boards were my drug of choice for a years!
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Expensive and addictive drug that’s for sure, I’m getting a(nother) custom delivered next week from San Diego. Fun little 5’9 twin fin, Wifey never understands why I need over 10 boards(and counting) and multiple sets of fins haha
Epic your grand kids are in to it already 
I’ll be surfing till the wheels fall off haha hopefully at least till I’m 70 
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I grew up in SD! Who’s making the new twinnie? I used to deliver boards for Dennis Murphy to a local shop. At one point I had 18 customs. Mostly longboards. Resin tint stuff. Custom opaques. Had around 40 over about 8 years.
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i think you meant to say they had nice asses. right?
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If I had to pay for boards I would’ve been screwed and surfing a lot less. Haha
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Stoked to hear from you my brother @FattyRoots been thinking of you lots! I love to hear she’s killing it, seems like she was just starting out, time flies doesn’t it, you are a helluva dad and living where you do is an absolute bonus, I could only imagine, I’d be a surf aholic too! Sorry to hear about the sickness, you guys were blessed to avoid it for a long ass time, still sucks bad , I know it, was a couple weeks of hell for me, hard to keep it away from your loved ones that’s for sure. Miss chatting with you all the time, I’ve gotta start hitting you up more. Keep ya head up brethren, and keep living the dream out there while we live it through you! Much respect fam. salute 🫡
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Lotsa surf freaks here huh? Nice, one day one of you guys is gonna teach me to cut a wave. I’m determined, skated, snowboarded hardcore for many many years, not much skating anymore but I still carve mountains when I can. Good morning my friends, hope everyone is having a wonderful weekend
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Riding giants is a brilliant movie/documentary
You should watch it trees
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I love a good surf documentary! You ever surf @ifish ?
Haha Practice popping up on a board in a pool. Get it to where you feel as if you walk up the board instead of pop up. The board will definitely go under, but it’ll help still. Then, you’ll be more prepared when you get to some actual swell. Do it on land too. Practice duck dives in the pool too. You don’t want to be out there trying to turtle waves and stuff. Haha
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Yes north west Ireland is close : )
Bit old now for it but I’m saving for a fishing kayak now
Kinda merging my two favourite outdoors ……… sort off
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I’m on it, gotta get me a board now, idk if my bro will let me practice with one of his…. Thanks for the advice, good call 
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Watch any Lost movie. The Decline, What’s Really Goin’ On, What’s Really Goin’ Wrong, etc.
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Epic, I love it! Oh man catching a monster in a kayak is a blast, I’ve wanted one for years, my buddy has two nice ones with all the bells and whistles it’s epic. His even has a motor, not the one I use 
into the same for sure. Awesome
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Good morning everyone 
I tried to surf once but turned back in. I couldn’t get out of my head. Big props to all who can surf. Skateboarding is the next best thing.
out of likes already…
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Definitely skate when it’s flat. Skating was fun as hell, but the injuries start getting pretty gnarly.
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Abit from riding giants , just to set the mood
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Teahuppo is epic. Checkout Cory killing it.
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