That’s exactly how I get them from my phone to my computer.
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Ah! Thank you for that, my friend @G-paS! 
When I plug my phone directly in my PC that “Photos” app/program opens up on its own…automatically.
Then I do import from there just as you show. The ‘new’ way I’m doing it.
But, then I have to “Resize” them there…otherwise they’re all naturally too large.
My phone puts out 103mb pictures.
One difference I do see, though…I don’t use any Cloud stuff.
Thank you again, friend!
Regards,
WHAB
4 Likes
It used to happen for me too. But, sometimes it doesn’t. Than I use plan B.
Yeah I started including a lot of background around what I am wanting. I just crop down to post. Glad you got it working.
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And after all that, my phone is now allowing me to process the pictures the old way I was using before this SNAFU! 
I just brought 5 images (my attic supplies excursion today) in the old way, and it worked like it should have.
Processing them the old way they somehow resize themselves without my doing anything…except that I take them from my phone on my PC and bring them straight into MS Paint - the old way.
Knowing that there is a viable alternative is always good to know!
Thank you again, so very much, my friend @G-paS!
,
WHAB
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A costly day! 
I spent more than I had planned on.
With 26 attic vent channels and 7 rolls of R19 insulation brought it to over $400.
I knocked it down to 6 rolls and 26 attic vent channels = $351.07 
Menards do provide an 11% rebate. I will avail myself of that rebate. BUT, I have to fill out paperwork, provide the Rebate Receipt, obtain and address an envelope and apply postage.
It’s like they put that out there to entice people into the store AND I’ll bet they count on most people not jumping through their hoops.
That is all the vent channels I’ll need and a little over 1/2 of what I need to insulate the attic excluding the footprint where the future Bloom Room will be.
I’ll buy it as soon as I can, after I fulfill some other financial obligations next month.
I’m going to drag my California Air Tools air compressor as close to the Loft as I can (without bringing it up to the loft, it’s a heavy and awkward to carry beast!) and see if I can do anything with my head-less pin nailer. Will be second attempt. IF I can get it to grip the Luan, I’ll loosely nail them and bend the pin over.
IF that doesn’t work, I can’t do anything until I get those gaps closed.
First - tea (Rocket Fuel!)! 
While I’m up there I will start closing the opening in the ceiling that I made when I installed that attic ladder.
I"m going to have to reroute my exhaust vents, the one I have up there now and at least one other for the new to me portable A/C units I have now. I just don’t know where to, yet.
Before I left for Menards, I looked at what it would take to clear the exhaust hose up there now and, it looks like I would have to raise that future floor by at least 6 inches…defeating my intent to gain grow height in the attic.
,
WHAB
2 Likes
Yes, they do! I even had a cashier confirm they count on people NOT turning them in. That is why I just price compare on the store price.
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I got the little more than 1/2 the roll insulation that I’ll need in the 1924 Brick Schoolhouse. I got the attic vent channels with baffles up in the attic.
I went up to nail the Luan down, I see now what ‘part’ of the problem is.
This area is where I tried the last time and I thought I missed the trim board by not placing the pin nail where it should have gone.
Where it should have gone is not there!
They left it short material, at least in this area. 
Fucking incompetents!
I expected to see light coming through…
I did not expect to see the trim board from in the attic…
I went to the next board to the left to see where it is laying. It’s where the other one should be…
Even with that I missed the trim board - several times! I did hit it a dozen or more times and got some of them to stick. I think pin-nailing them down will work once I can close the gap (see * below).
How they hell do they miss a WALL by that much!?!? 
They’d have to make up for or subtract from that Luan somewhere else, the other end.
Early assessment says, it looks like I’ll have to add ANOTHER trim board to the trim board they put up to get something to nail the Luan into.
To do that I’ll have to trim EVERY ONE of the lattice trim ends around the entire perimeter. IF I add another trim board to nail into it will need to occupy space already occupied.
Dang it!
I think I will try to add length to that short Luan, a splice of sorts.
I’m hoping there isn’t much more than that one piece - not F-ing likely!
- There is also some elevation issues. There are the roof trusses. The trusses are furred out to attach the Luan to, but on those ends…there is no furring.
That brings me back to adding another trim board around the entire perimeter of the classroom, after cutting back that lattice trim.
Dang it!
Time for a !
Please joinT me! ,
WHAB
6 Likes
Well, after looking at closeups of the roof structure (especially where & how it changes angle (…as well as the other stuff…) and think perhaps more than one generation may have been employed…
Have you ever considered that perhaps you are currently making up for a karma deficit of a past lifetime? 
Cheers
G
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Well, I am now, my friend!
,
WHAB
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That insulation costs 
, but it’s like money in the bank! You never lose, increasing the R value of your home.
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Exactly right, my friend @JoeCrowe! 
I mentioned to my Niece that I was going to the City to buy insulation for the attic and she replied “We did insulate it, I bought the insulation”.
This is what was done (I just took this image). I do not know who exactly wasted their time and money on this…
Maybe she (they) don’t understand thermodynamics or how insulation works in general! 
Thank you for you participation in the discussion, Joe!
,
WHAB
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After contemplating this for a couple of days, I’ve come up with game plan, considering all the problems I’m currently faced with.
Plan A:
First I have to get these…
Up there!..(round peg, square hole! )
Then, go around the perimeter of the ceiling drilling small holes (1/8th inch, I believe) butt up against the perimeter trim so I can know where the ceiling trim is when I’m up in the attic.
They vary all over the places, none of them hitting or landing in the same placement…so measuring things would be a waste of time and energy. I’ll be able to find the trim from the attic in relation to the small holes I’ve just created…
IF I don’t have to add another trim board up there I’ll just go around putting Dap in those holes. IF I have to add more trim board it will cover those holes.
Now to finding out if my Thought Process Machine is functioning properly or not!
.
WHAB
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Thought Process Machine - Fail! 
I should have mentioned much earlier that I have considered taking down this waste of time, money and effort of a ceiling when I first saw what had happened in the attic, and starting from scratch.
The only thing that stopped my was not having scaffolding. I can’t do something like that from atop a ladder.
I may have to do that after all…
Back to the Attic work…
First task accomplished. I did get that oversized roll of R19 up in the attic. It was a snug fit but it went though okay…without damaging it.
Then, those locating holes worked great. I could see clearly where the pin nail should be located from in the attic.
Btw, I now see why that 1 ceiling panel was short on the West end. They had 2+ inches hanging over on the East end
Then I walked back to the attic ladder to reroute the air hose, it was only short by a little bit. As I was traversing the ceiling joists I missed a hand-hold and fell face first here…
As I was falling I was wondering how hitting the Classroom floor would feel, not a joke! 
As I was falling, I was convinced the furring wouldn’t stop me crashing through the ceiling. My face hit just this side of the LED wafer light. Face first into the insulation 
Then when I got up I was presented with this…
I dislocated the middle joint on my ring finger.
It took two tries to pop it back into place.
I kept moving forward but, my finger kept dislocating. With my other hand busy, I had to grab something, anything, with that hand to pop it back in place…a dozen times or more.
I’m IR for at least a day.
Also, I proved Plan A will not get the job done. Mostly because of the elevation problem (where ceiling joists, ceiling panels and height of trim board are suppose to come together) I mentioned the other day.
I can’t close the gaps in some of the areas I tried. I tried about 11 feet on the East end of the ceiling.
I’m going to contemplate this to see what my Overripe Melon conjures up!
Right now, relocating the trim boards where they should be, then nailing the ceiling panels down to it.
I’m also considering filling the gaps with foam insulation, that rolled stuff, like what was used to weatherproof SOME of the windows here.
Or adding that ceiling trim addition. Adding another trim board around the entire perimeter to close the gap.
The ceiling should be taken down and built correctly.
Now is not the time to start that process.
Even though I am legit IR, I’m going to lay that first roll of R19 in that Southern most ceiling joist bay.
That bay doesn’t have now and never had any insulation in it.
At least I can lay that in there for now and it makes it much better than it was.
However, I saw my long-blade Hyde knife just the other day - to use to cut the insulation - but now I can’t find it! Since I saw it the other day I was pondering how best to sharpen it before putting it to use. Now I can’t even find it!
Also, I realized the other day that getting my stapler in that space to tack down the attic vent channels in place would be impossible.
I bought a slap-hammer/tacker the other day. It’s due in Friday, they say…
While giving my finger a day or two to recover, I’m going to start a small woodworking project in the interim.
I’m going to make a Veteran’s Funeral Flag Display Case. It’s for my Texas girlie, for her Uncle. She doesn’t know I’m doing this. I hope to have it done and delivered before Christmas.
Without a table saw it makes approaching such a project a lot differently - Festool TS75 w/Festool-ish Multi-Function Slab.
Cutting the one 45° and two 22-1/2° angle joints (two cuts and four cuts respectively) will be the most challenging aspect of this project, without a table saw. I’ve been running it through my Thought Process Machine for a couple of weeks now.
IF I can’t get it done with the Festool TS75, I can use my brother’s table saw. It’s still here, for now.
There are a couple aspects of this project that will add to its difficulty. A Medal Display section, whereas I don’t know if there are any to display, and if not, disguising that section like it wasn’t there.
I have a couple things in mind to approach that aspect. Will have to see if they work out, any or all of them.
It will be fun to at least start thinking about woodworking again.
Oh, I’m presuming its dimensions will be similar to any Funeral Flag Display, not knowing the actual dimensions of the of the flag in question.
But, back to laying that one roll in, then a before digging into this Red Oak here and starting the processing.
IF my ring finger cooperates, that is!
Oh, I’m also going to install that work light that is visible in a lot of these pictures properly. I have been using it by temporarily hanging it off of a couple boards I threw together, that I can move around and clamp it in place.
When I was figuring out how best to employ it, I had to figure out how I’m going to power it. I found a very interesting cord/socket combination that I think will work perfectly…the on/off switch specifically.
I’m starting with a 5000 lumen Rockler work light. I bought them for my last shop.
I put one in the garage in my Texas girlies house in Texas. Upon my return to grab the last of my things there, I asked her IF she used it, IF she liked it … she did, I didn’t want to take it from her.
Now that I have the ladder back in here and I generally know where I want to tentatively locate it I’m going to hang it.
Finger starting to hurt and swell up 
I hope you’re all having a most melodious evening!
,
WHAB
4 Likes
Nah… the joists just moved apart. Didn’t you notice the building grew a bit? Smh… Can’t imagine that insulated much, but then again, afghans are full of holes and still warm… lol
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Good catch!
A conspiracy of Joists for my earlier speaking badly about their installation!
But even Afghans only keep warm the portionS they’re applied to!
“Why are my legs cold? … I put a sweater around my torso!”
Thanks for piping up, @Nagel420 ,
WHAB
2 Likes
Well, I can almost close my fist.
A good bit of blood has made it to the surface, as dislocated digits can do. The picture doesn’t show the fullness of it.
It’s been pretty painful, as dislocated digits can be
Gonna get back at it, as soon as I finish my Rocket Fuel!
This is where I left off…
I’m going to start by hanging that work light.
IF anyone is interested in spot lighting, I highly recommend this one…
I bought it when it was on “Sale”. It was priced the same as the 3000 lumen light. I’m pretty sure I paid $29+.
It is available here, IF anyone is interested…
https://www.rockler.com/lumen-led-utility-light-with-aluminum-shroud
Since the 1924 Brick Schoolhouse Woodworking Shop layout is not finally laid out I knew I needed something mobile.
What makes this cord right for this situation is that the switch on this 20ft cord is not at the socket end. The switch is near the plug end. 4ft from the plug end. So, no matter where I use it I won’t ever have to a need to reach up to the socket end to switch it on. The switch will always be nearer to the floor end than the ceiling end.
Since I’ve been using on the Festool-ish Multi-Function Slab, the switch to turn the light on or off has been sitting on the edge of the Multi-Function Slab…no reaching high above for the switch.
Also note; there is no shroud built into the socket end. The Rockler lights does have a built in shroud. I don’t believe this Rockler light would fit in to another fixture that does have its own shroud.
IF you’re ever in need of a good light (shop light, task light, craft light) and cord that fit well together, with the switch where you can easily reach it…this is a great setup I would recommend!
My plan has always been to run the cord up to the ceiling (11.5 foot), across the ceiling, and down a wall to a 120V outlet, wherever that may be in the Woodshop. I just didn’t know where that would be exactly. I still don’t. The layout of tools and equipment ‘may’ change…likely to.
And, while I was last up in the attic, I tried to pull that R19 Insulation under some horizontal boards up there. 2 seem to be Strong-Backs BUT, it they are not secured to the trusses (ceiling joists) as one would expect.
After pulling 1 nail I was able to lift the end near where I was installing the attic ladder.enough to hand saw that end. I think there is only 1 other nail left in its entire nearly 30 feet run.
I can’t understand what they did or why they did it.
There are 2 of these un-explainable strong backs straddle the center line of the trusses/joists. Neither one was/is secured in place
There looks to be other boards acting like ceiling joist stabilizer boards like what one would find in any truss assembly system. I don’t know what words to use describe these boards…they’re used to hold things in place as the building is being constructed. They’re temporary boards they almost always remain in place even after they’ve done their job, temporarily holding things in place as the construction proceeds.
I tried to pull the insulation through the openings created by these boards. You can see all 3 of these boards/assemblies.
I thought about pulling those 2 strong-backs once I discovered their not secured in place. The one moves under foot as you traverse the space. they are a moving, unsecured walk-board - of sorts!
I have not a single clue as to what they were doing!
I left them up in the attic as I’m sure I’m going to need some 2x4s up there as I build it out. These will already be up there when I get to that point.
I am going to temporarily remove them all to make laying the insulation in place easier.
The only problem with that plan is the placement of another un-explainable bit of lumber up there, a diagonal support from the rafter to the lower chord of the truss. This one, recently installed, rest upon the waste of time and effort strong back.
The ‘new’ diagonal truss support is in a location where the existing diagonal support is wildly curved. It has a serious bow in it BUT I don’t see evidence that it is weakened in any way.
I have not a clue as to why they added it, and added it to a strong back that is not secured. I lifted that far end enough to hand saw it.
I will install a new diagonal support at that location during or after I insulate the space - but correctly!
Lastly, I mentioned I ordered a Slap Hammer.
It came in.
I also bought some 3/8th inch staples that Amazon recommended in the “Frequently bought together” list. I assumed these staples that they’re recommended were actually for this tool.
They’re not.
I used their “Get product support” to get a refund for the wrong staples they recommended I buy for THIS slap hammer where the staples don’t fit in it!
I wound up buying the staples this slap hammer eats from Home Depot. They’re ‘supposed’ to be delivered by Nov. 4, the say
Understand, this is directly related to the Bloom Room I have planned for that space. I’m insulating from the farthest point and everything from there will move closer to that planned space above the loft. When I get to that place, all the insulation will be done to that point. Like NOT painting yourself into a corner.
I wanted to put the attic vent channels (baffles) in place as I went along. Now, with delivery of the wrong staples, I’ll have to go back to areas I have already completed my work in those spaces when ever those staples arrive. Something I was intentionally avoiding…
My plans also include installing a Mini-Split A/C unit up there. But, since I don’t want to open holes through these nearly 100 year old double stack of brick walls I’m going to plan for something like the Pioneer Mini-Split Cassette.
From memory, that Pioneer Mini-Split Cassette requires an approximate 4 feet x 4 feet boxed framing through the ceiling.
I will frame that out when I get to that point in the attic (I think this will require modifying the truss design) then insulate that boxed frame work until installation of the Pioneer Mini-Split Cassette.is performed.
Note: I did find a Mr. Cool Central Heat & Air system that ‘may’ work. But, considering I don’t have a basement or enough floor space for a Central H&A unit down here, IF I were to go this route, I’d have to figure out a way to get that HVAC unit up IN TO the attic.
Oh, and, btw…my previously injured thumb is not yet back to normal. I can barely forcefully squeeze anything with it.
That 2 digits out of service, one from each hand!
When will humans evolve past the need for separate digits and opposable thumbs!?!?
It sure would have come in ‘handy’ had it occurred prior to the last month!
I hope you’re ALL having a most melodious of evenings!
,
WHAB
6 Likes
Sketchy stuff working off the top of a ladder!
I’m okay climbing the ladder to the top.
I’m okay working over head from the top of the ladder.
It’s the transitioning that gets me. Moving out in space without any means of support nearly 8 feet above the floor I would certainly crash on to!
This went well, except for the little cord ‘clamps’ (?). The first one hit the floor before I could get the cord in place.
They went alright. I just think there must be a more secure way of doing it. They’re a bit flimsy, imo.
Then, the relationship between the light socket and the on/off rocker switch…
You see no matter where you put the light, the switch will always be in reach of/from the floor.
Flying,
WHAB
3 Likes
I keep looking at the rafters and roof structure, thinking I can see a possible solution. Check me on these assumptions:
- You are setting the attic area up to be insulated from the lower living area
- you have no snow load requirements?
- there is a second roof installed over the old one?
What I’m thinking is (from what I can see of the last pic in the post above) looks like a maybe the current roof is built on the old one but with spacers(new rafters)?
If so, you could insulate between the rafters and still have an air passage directly under the roof to the peak??
If my assumptions are correct for roof loading, you could adjust the rafter trusses, insulate and gain the attic as a work/storage area… Maybe…
Cheers
G
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Hello my friend, @Gpaw!
- Yes, to a point. That is correct until we get to the future Attic Grow framed just above the Loft.
- Minor snow around here. But, it is a 12/12 roof.
- There is at least 3 roofs on this place.
- Roof one is the original Shake Shingles (visible from inside the attic).
- Roof two is composite shingles
- Roof three is a metal roof.
No “new” rafters. No new “spacers” I’m aware of.
Yes, IF I were to insulate between the rafters, it is something I could do … but venting out the peak of the roof would be very difficult to do. It is not currently vented out the peak. It is currently vented only by the deteriorating and/or missing Fascia.
IF I get to that point, I’m going to put vents in the top of the 2 Gable Ends.
What I wanted to do is spray foam insulate the rafter bays and completely close in the attic even though I’m only going to use a small portion of it for growing. A approximate 8x12 foot space out of the 30x30 building (30x30 does not subtract from the 2 East corners that are cut into that 30x30).
I can’t afford to spray foam it now.
I also can’t afford to watch 100s of $ escape from the Classroom for another Winter.
IF I can’t afford to spray foam any time soon I am thinking I can lay another layer of this R19 on top of what I’m putting in now.
Thank you for adding to the discussion, brother!
IF I haven’t sufficiently answered your questions.
OR IF you have other ideas, comments or suggestions, I’m keen to hear them!
Thanks, man!
Regards,
WHAB
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Wow! That Took It Out Of Me!
Whatever “It” is, it took it out of me.
That starter course was hell!
Besides having to pull those wast of time, money and effort Strongbacks, I used some of the wrongly bought R13 roll insulation to fill that first opening. It’s where the last rafter terminates and where that Gable End starts.
No way to accurately cut it in. Not from my perspective. Too many cuts, studs, 1/2 studs then faux rafter tails coming out from those going out to the Fascia.
This is that “Why did you put this here” diagonal support.
It was held in place by exactly 2 screws. And, this one was not even screwed down tight. I could easily wobble it back and forth…
Oh, on the above; they tried to nail it in place first. Then, they like me, found out that that Oak is tough as hell to nail into! I feel their pain!
But, getting back to business…
I thought it would go easier than it is. I expected to have all 6 rolls in place by now.
It’s killing my back … the bending down, the getting up, then working on my knees and fitting the R19 insulation into place by stretching my body out across the area I’m working in is beating me up!
I’m going to go as hard as I can and try and get a few more laid in.
Maybe all of those that I have, maybe…
Oh, btw, something in my left elbow has been hurting since I started this. I don’t know why, unless I hit that elbow when I fell face first into the insulation! I have been relying on it heavily doing this human Cantilever work!
First a game of which of these things do not belong?
Then, a !
,
WHAB
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