Hi.
I really hope someone can help me. I put these plants inside the tent a week ago. Potted them in new soil, added the new LED lamp and even put a little neem to the water to get rid of these small flies.
But every day, the plants look worse and worse. I don’t really know why. I stopped giving nutriens, just pure water, I added a fan for fresh air, but the plants just look so bad.
Does anyone have any idea? Thanks a lot
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What is the potting medium you are using?
What kind of fertilizer do you use?
Do you check your water/fertilizer mix for pH?
The “small flies” are probably fungus gnats.
Identify the insect pests first before applying anything to control the pest.
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Thanks for your quick answer.
I use soil for planting. I got “Subtral Hochbeeterde”
As a Fertilizer I use hesi, and they claim i do not need to control ph value.
The small flies are in deed these fungus gnats. I always have some problems with them in winter when I get some plants inside. But this time I managed to control them. I add some neem to the water, i re-pot the plants every 3-4 weeks which they seem to like and so I just see a few flies every few weeks.
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Your plants look like they do not believe hesi’s claim. pH in the 6.0 - 6.5 range is important for proper growth.
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are your LEDs at 100%?? id lower the light intensity to the lower possible, or raise the lights as much as you can! 
looks like LED stress to me…
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@Daniel213 look more like fungus gnats taking the overhand they put them eggs in your soil and do nasty damage to the roots. Your soil is on the dryer side which is good to counter the gnats cause they like it wet but plants need water to grow. I should drain your soil cause it looks like the had more then enough nutes for now and add some lava powder at the surface of your soil to kill the gnats. Trim off the damaged grow to stimulate new growth won’t do harm either.
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If it were me I would repot them in decent medium and water from below only when the pots are light in order to encourage root growth and discourage pests. Get some fly paper hung up. A decent soil medium will buffer itself if not drowned with no need to adjust.
That medium looks horrible, looks like woodchips which may rob the N. They look terrible and it would probably be quicker to pop some new beans than fight to get these on track.
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I’d possibly be checking underside of leafs for mites or webs to iv had issue with gnats this year but they didn’t do that kind of damage were just slow and droopy all sorted now thou or the soil could be too hot for the stage of growth
I can explain how I grow organically to help you out. I top dress my plants then water and it all soaks in with water, top dressing is putting dry organic nutrients on the top layer of the soil and using water to mix it in the soil
I take a roots organic .75cu (5 gal) bag, cut off the top, put holes on the bottom on the side, and plant a seed in a rooting cube, seed pointy side up, you can rip or loosen the cube, wet the cube and seed, then plant immediately with the lights on for warmth and photosynthesis. keep the cube and surrounding soil wet for the entire duration
2 weeks after sprouting, maybe 3, start when plants start to yellow at most, I add 1tsp/per gallon dolomite lime (try to use the kind that shows calcium and mangnese on the label). this keeps ph at 7 because lime is a ph buffer for organics, and all you need to do is water with plain tap/hose water, 1tsp/per gallon blood meal (the high n one), this should be enough for 2 weeks of stretch during flower. you can also add myco+ (its a type of mycohorizae with a bunch of other stuff) . plant ratios are nitrogen - phosphorus - potassium, n keeps plants green and helps photosynthesis, phosphorus for blooming, and potassium for water regulation. water until there’s visible runoff from the soil bag
you only need to add dolomite once every 3 months. stronger lights = bigger plants
then before i switch to 12/12, I add high phos bone meal and seabird guano, both are 0-11-0 and 0-12-0 at 1tsp/gal and 1/2 cup of crystalized humic acids/5 gal (these promote the microbiology in the soil), and try to feed with this regimen every 3 weeks. since its organic and its all organic chemistry, you can also add about 50 red worms to each 5 gallon pot. at around week 5 or 6 I add a bud hardener/bloom booster I found on amazon. all of this stuff can be found on amazon.com in the USA, and the brand of organic nutrients I use is “down to earth”.
you can feed with organics until the day of harvest, and the smell and results are amazing
its harder for organics to burn, and aside from a little dust its easier just to water once the soil dries out instead of mixing nutrients in a bucket
you can also make teas but that gets messy, I prefer just watering my plants with about 3-4gal of hose water every 4-6 days
here’s how organics work, basically when organic material is added to the soil, even top dressed and watered down, it creates a system of microbes and bacteria that work in a delicate ecosystem of the roots and the plants, and plants love organics
here’s a pic of the last crop I had, had security problems and I have to relocate
good luck!
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Thanks, probably you are right, I will get some stuff to test ph today.
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To be honest, the soil looks pretty bad. This was my first impression when I opened the bag. I will get some other soil and change that. Thanks!
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I am growing in my cellar, so the soil is not that warm. Probably 20-21 degrees. But I will check that. What is your preferred temp?
I also checked under all leaves and could not find any pests. I also dug 3-4 cm into the soil to check it and could not find any.
I thought that and he going to have to us cal mag
Some of that i agree with but I flush for over 3 days. My bottled organic nutes have flavour enhancers and can be too much on a3 day flush make you cough too much.
dial down the light a bit to start you have PH lock out as your color in the leaves is a bit wonkey you have green mixed with yellow from top to bottom they usually steal energy from the bottom up you have a lot of yellow on the top leaves now that could be like @bigLblazed said light bleach as well you you need to know your PH ( of what goes in and what comes out ) i think its the soil thou i am going to guess and say your PH is way high
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Hey guys. Thanks again for all your answers and ideas.
I am pretty sure I got some ph lockout + light stress. I ordered the cheapest ph meter (don’t worry, will get a better one) from amazon and my water is just 7.5.
So my flushing with just water was a pretty bad idea. I even checked the ph value after I added the hesi nutries. (tnt complex, root stuff, power zyme) and after that the ph was like 6.5. Seems much better.
I will try to examine how low I can bring down the leds. Again, thanks a lot!
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Hey guys its me again.
I just noticed something that might be relevant for the plants. I noticed that I did not give the plants 20 hours of light per day, instead I set my timer to 24 hours. 
24 hours for the last 3 months 
Might be relvant to the stress my plants have
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Unless you’re other parameters are off that should not be a problem, I rarely ever done a grow with less than 24 hours light at the Vegetation state.
I would bet on pH problems like the majority that answered to you already.
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Good morning, @Yan402 . What’s cooking?
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