Measure across your + and - leads from the driver, can try points at your strips I just don’t know how you wired it, though closer to the driver the better, also if running at 90w unless the driver ran hot itself and was in a bad location there is a more likely chance you have a wiring issue
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Is this issue with a specific set of strips?
The dozens of builds I’ve seen all use metal screws to mount the strips to the frame and I haven’t ever seen anyone with an issue (myself included).
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if your screw head is too wide it could potentially cut into the pcb underlay and short out the strip, saying that there is clearance built around each screw hole to allow mounting by said screws you can see where it stops if looking at it from an angle with light reflecting on it.
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Irreplaceable first hand empirical knowledge, priceless. May I share this in my upcoming thread?
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do what you want this thread gets shared frequently.
Honestly it overdue for a rehash.
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Cool Man, much good karma. I will get back with you after season ends ( Nov ) for more convo. Appreciate It Much 
just an update, used a multimeter, no voltage past driver,
replaced with a 240, problem solved.
lesson learned avoid the 150s
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Had a quick question,
Going to build a new light for a rotating fallponic NFT setup.
My questions is, Can I run the gen 2, 4 foot and 2 foot strips off of the same driver since they both run at 700 ma?
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/bridgelux/BXEB-L0560Z-35E2000-C-B3/7907663
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/bridgelux/BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3/7907661
powered by https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/detail/mean-well-usa-inc/XLG-240-L-AB/10300465
Thanks in advance.
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voltage is different , if you did you have to run two 560mm strips in series if running in parallel with the 1120s
though i see you have L series driver… so everything is in series
yeah should work
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thanks @Mr.Sparkle, figured i should pose the question to someone with more experience before i waste my dollars! much appreciated ill give it a go 
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My QB120’s have gone out so I’m left with a HLG 240- 2100, actually I have two. Can someone help me figure out strips I can run? I looked on LEDgardner and didn’t see a build with my driver. Looking to fill a 32”x 5’ area. Thanks!
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Are you thinking of the Gen 2 Bridglux strips?
Is the a suffix on the P/N? (A,B, AB)
What length of strip are you thinking?
Cheers
G
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Same here. 2x XGL-150-AB. one went flickery, called digikey and they overnighted me another. then that one wend 4 months later. both were installed vertically outside the closet. replacement went inside the closet with a fan pointed directly to it. so far so good.
thing is I have another 2x xgl 150ws in the tent. running 10 strips of EB Gen 3 560mm in series each. What should I buy now in case something bad happens to the XLGs tomorrow? the tent is 3x3.
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I have one a driver and one b. I was thinking a four foot strip, but I open to any size that will fit the space. 2’s or 3’s should be in my range. I’d like to not have to buy heat sinks and just re use my aluminum frame.
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Not sure really, other than a spare driver for back up, or another model driver, but you may have to wire the strips up differently in parallel.
Mine were hanging vertically outside the tent as well. Same as the 240w in the flower room that have run perfect since I had them. Just seems to be the 150w that have issues as far as I can tell.
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Lets assume Gen 2 (Gen3 is twice the money for a small improvement in efficiency)
Assuming:
BXEB-L1120Z-35E4000-C-B3
DS131 Bridgelux EB Series Gen2 Data Sheet 20171020 Rev A.pdf (940.9 KB)
1120 mm long ( 44"), 700mA, 39V, 27.3W (useful bits from Table 1)
Using:
HLG 240- 2100
From here:
2100mA max drive current, 59~119V constant current region
Standard P.S.A. This voltage and current can kill you, so be careful and be tidy with the wiring…
General layout, This will be several strings of lights (strips in series) & the individual strings will be in parallel.
What does all of this mean?
- each string will be 3 strips in series (3 x 39V) = 117V which is inside the 59~119V constant current region of the driver
- and 3 strings in parallel (3 x 700mA) = 2100mA which is also the max drive current of the driver
- 9 strips will consume 245 W
Options:
Driver external to the tent. I like this as it get the waste heat of the drive out of the grow environment, it does mean you need to plan out your wiring as you will want to minimize copper losses between the driver and the strips. The strips will accept 18~24AWG solid wire (so you want 18 solid)
This is how I did it, blue extension cord from driver to terminal block, 18AWG from terminal block to strips.
I was hoping you had the AB suffix on you driver as that would allow you add a small potentiometer wherever convenient to dim the lights.
I’m sure you will have to questions to clarify the above. 
Cheers
G
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Two questions.
Will I be able to dim the lights still? Wasn’t sure with the explanation of AB driver being best option.
Is 4000k the optimal spectrum for flowering? I had thought 3k or 3500k was.
Thank you so much for the write up! I’ll order them and ask again to make sure it’s wired correctly.
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ab allows you to wire in a pentionemeter to dim the lights and i run 3500 for all my lights and use them for veg and flower
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Sorry, the “B” unit you have is dimmable with a 100K pot.
There is an onboard pot (located in the lower left corner) on the ‘A type’ unit. Reference the last page of the HLG-240H spec sheet.
The “35E” in the P/N is for the 3500K strip
The in-stock strip at Digikey is the 3500k & 5000K, the others are special order.
The 3500k is a great compromise for both veg and flower. I find 3500k does keep the plants a little on the shorter side but I like that.
Cheers
G
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I’ll order 9 tonight. I have to space out the order or my wife will be upset with the $150. Especially after I told her I’d bought all my Christmas gifts already. Thanks again for the excellent help!
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