Purchased 14awg wire and power cord. Is this appropriate wire?
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I normally use 1mm solid core to connect the strips up which apparently converts to 18awg
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There able to get that hot ? I grabbed 2 7 inch 12v fans . I use the allot on modified car oil cooler but they will.be more than capable to cool my heat sink off.
I’m still in disbelief how bright that board is . I wonder why companies like spider farmer run theirs at lower voltage . Most likely warranty issue. At 50$ a board if I get a year I’m happy that’s the cost of a bulb.
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It’s like the performance car world, you can do some wild stuff if you want to.
Primarily, the enemy is heat when overdriving, if you can control that you can push it.
I think the ultimate would be a water cooled heat sink (sooner or later, somebody will do it… 
).
The manufacturers are using those as part of their lab testing to generate their datasheet information (I’ve built similar test fixtures).
How hot can they get? Well, I’ve seen surface mount parts de-solder themselves - more that once… (not LEDs but equivalent power parts)
The life expectancy takes a big hit but if you look at replacing every year or so like a bulb, OK.
Cheers
G
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@gpaw, someone is doing water-cooled LEDs. Agnetix Heat Recovery Technology-Agnetix
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LOL As George Carlin said, “Nail two things together that have never been nailed together before and someone will buy it” 
Oh wow, that surprised me. Interesting specifications, good efficacy, but they are only capturing 50% of the heat. They even have cameras in them so you can see the plants remotely.
Any idea what they sell those units for?
Cheers
G
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The original ChilLED lights were designed to be water cooled…
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Hmmm I have tons on 6061 aluminum in my machine shop. If this 12v 7 inch fan doesnt work I may try a water cooler.
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I like 6061, nice alloy, reasonable thermal conductance, great machinability. I specified that for most heatsinks (they were generally extrusions).
You said you applied a thermal compound - that would be my first move too.
Have you measured any numbers (volts and amps and temperature) yet? I’m curious how much you are pumping through the QB.
Cheers
G
Right! 3+ years ago, I forgot about those. Senility
Cheers
G
Yes I used thermal compound.
52 v @ 440w I think around 3 amps ( you can do the maht to figure out the amps ) per two qb288 boards running two separate mean well power supplies. 12 inches away my lumen meter measures 160,000 lumens . My jaw dropped.
Something didnt seem right I know 440watts is correct . I want to go back and do more measurements.
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440W total for both boards? So close to doubling the power… That is getting close to the absolute max current for the parts. Yup, that’s aggressive. 
Which drivers are you using?
So thermally: absolute max. temperatures in the data sheet (Tc) are measured at the bottom of the surface mount device. Then the PCB has to conduct that heat through the board to the heatsink and the heatsink has to dump that heat into the air (or water).
Each of these components have some thermal resistance, so in practical terms the max temperature (I think of it as a gradient) of the heatsink will be lower than Tc.
Now, for us folks, a good way to quantify this is one of those cheap, IR gun type thermometers. You need one for this project.
The data sheet for the LM301B shows a max temperature of 85C at the point of contact to the PCB so back that off 10C to 75C as the maximum you can measure on the heatsink. Anything higher and you must back the current off or improve the heatsink fans etc).
Cheers
G
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Yes , 2 boards 220w per boards total 440w total. Mean well 150h-48 maxed out. The chip I have is LM301H it says its forwarding voltage is 60v. Im sure the maximum temperature is still around the same. Yes im going to grab a ir temp gun.
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The B version of the 150H-48?
G
No a … Itrs a HLG - 150H - 45a this one I beilve
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HLG-150H-48?qs=3IPTn0w%2F0t8BUIJApjUjsw%3D%3D&gclid=CjwKCAjwm_P5BRAhEiwAwRzSO5tAatwXeA-7DIN8ft1DytuVj7w8e07YEyzerrOlxnnH2V8UNMoQHBoCqmAQAvD_BwE
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What are your thoughts on the Samsung made Diablo board . Looks pretty bad ass. They even drive their chips sets at 56v.
This company’s getting 200 watts per qb288 lm301h board. I really want to see what the breaking point of one of these are .
https://www.growlights.ca/600-watt-fb288-lm301h-3500k-660nm-uv-ir-led-fusion-board-light-diy-kit.html
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Oh, I like it!… It is a beast. 
It has ‘top of the line’ LEDs giving 200 lm/W efficacy, 35,000K colour (good compromise). AND they added a few IR, UV & deep red LEDs for more fun.
They are using a great HLG-600H-48-AB driver which will put out a max. of 12.5A at 48V, hence the 600W rating. With that A/B version you can dim the light from 600W to 60W.
I’m trying to tease out exactly what the QB panels are rated for exactly. I think the current spec (500mA to 2,500mA) relates to the individual panel.
Got it. They are 125W panels and there are 6 - so technically, with bigger driver capability, you could push that panel to 750W. 
I wish they had shown details on how they are mounting and wiring the LED driver. It would be great if the driver and light panel could be separated, then you could move the driver outside of the grow area. This light covers a 5’ x 5’ area very nicely (serious overkill for a 4’ x 4’).
Cheers
G
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Hi Sparkle 
Been some time since I logged in here, life etc.
I have everything ready now, and will do some reading before I might ask trivial questions 
Should I make a new thread, for the Soul Semiconductors strips?
Cheers
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Nah can post it here as it falls under the cheap strips title
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