Cheap LED Strips : A Viable Alternative

Defective.
Overvoltage section (under Protection) on pg. 3 says it is supposed to “shut down output voltage and re-power on recovery”.
So what it should do is; power down re-connect LEDs and power up.

If you do the RMA thing… Tell them you want to see a fault analysis report… That always makes them ‘perk up’.

Cheers
G

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So what are people running watts per sq ft?

I have 4 QB304 on (2) 240H and 14 Solstrips x2 on (2) 340H driven max right now at a little under 1400w combined over a 4x8 screen. This works out to 43.75 w/sq. Ft. and was just wondering if this was overkill?

This is for flower. I had been running 1100w for veg and flower but figured id see what the boards/strips can do and upped it for flower this grow

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The last time it died they just said keep it, you will have a new one in 3 days, you can’t fault Digikey on customer service. It took about 3 minutes on live chat to organize it.

I just don’t want to be calling them every 3-4 months for a replacement if I am doing something wrong with them. I will in future disconnect them from the power instead of just the light from the driver.

I am just wondering if there is a better model, I don’t want it dieing outside of the warranty.

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40w a sq ft in flower is probably on the high end. I am running 30w a sq ft flowering, 20w veg.

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It probably is the disconnecting on the led side causing issues, can go to the bit beefier HLG drivers but you shouldn’t be disconnecting or connecting them while powered anyways, if wanting to go to the HLG’s you’ll have to wire up your strips a bit different just cause they are higher amperage based drivers “parallel arrays” but we can work on what you need if you want to go that route if thats your decision also do you have the xlg’s running at normal amperages, just from personal experience me running my xlg’s initially overdriven at 20% caused issues them being in a high heat area didnt help either, but otherwise since then they have been fine.

@SquirtleSquad depends on the situation but when i was running solstrips i was in the 40-45w/sqft range heat was an issue though, but with the bridgelux im running down in the 30-33w/sqft range, saying that 35w/sqft seems like a good general purpose point whether photos, autos, flower or veg, tis enough to do all

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Why such a big difference between the two? Did you notice a yield decrease?

Also whats the latest on these LEDs? Back when i did my Solstrips 2 years ago and Quantum Boards 4 years ago was around $1/w

Right now its nearing winter in the northeast so heat generated is beneficial. So long as the chillers dont kick on its a win-win. Better than running them low and using a heater.

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Well i’ve tried less was trying in the 20-25w/sqft range and it worked just obviously if all the other factors aren’t limiting factors more light = more bud just it isn’t proportional the more you have.

As for why well with the bridgelux’s in my cabs when i was initially running at that 40w/sqft range which is what i initially planned for based off what was working for me with the solstrips i actually started running into consistently noticeable light bleaching issues so had to turn things down, now sure you can hang the lights higher if you have the space and a 40-45w/sqft situation thats hung say 12" higher than a 30-35w/sqft situation can have the same results or at least similar.

Really run as much as you can so long as your heat is manageable and or your not noticing any detrimental effect to the plants.

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Yeah I was curious from an efficiency stance. Like you mentioned im sure once you get past a certain point anything extra is giving minimal if any returns. I know for HID that # was 50wsqft

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Yeah, honestly i don’t know where that upper limit is as my own personal focus has more been efficiency in the lessor to a degree not the other being as much as possible which usually at those points that’s where other weak points or limiting factors start popping up in my stuff and instead of following that never ending chain of pushing hard to find what breaks, im alright with toning it back a bit and gradually doing improvements in a more gradual fashion.

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I am using 10x 560mm eb gen 2 strips on it and the temps are cool in my basement atm, I have it mounted outside the tent…

i ment more turning up the current screw but if you haven’t and still running stock you would be not using that driver to its “rated” max anyways, then yeah probably disconnect the strips while still powered is probably the cause, what specifically has happened though no idea.

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That’s OK, thanks for the help, I was just concerned I was causing the problem and I dont want to repeat it. It seems to be exactly what happened to the last one which had the LEDs disconnected from the driver while it was on as well. So I will tape the connection from the driver to the LEDs together to remind me not to do it.

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well the problem id say is more from the reconnecting than the disconnecting as its the inrush or jump from no load to full load draw that would spike values, they have protection for that on the input as its expected that light may want to be turned off and on at times, but by disconnecting and reconnecting it on the output side your probably bypassing that protection or design to allow that, but again just a guess on that.

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@SquirtleSquad I find that if it is in a tent or a well sealed and reflective space it makes a difference so take that into account when people are advising on what they use. As an example, some people will run 40-45W/square foot without issue. Where as I run a tent which contains all the light and keeps reflecting it around and I have up to 750 watts of solstrips. That makes about 45 W/square foot. If I run it full then it will outright bleach all the leaves. Even if I run the lights 2 to 3 foot from the canopy. If I run it at 40W/square foot then it still stresses the plant right out. If I run it at 35W/square foot then the plant starts to behave normally. This is all with temps and humidity on point. So I can not go above 35W while others can. I think the tent plays a lot to do with that.
Also, as @Mr.Sparkle mentioned, he had to drop his wattage to about 25 per foot I think as his space is small and well reflective.

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I’m looking for something cheap that doesn’t pull much juice from the wall, but that’ll be strong enough to veg some seedlings, clones and moms in a 3’x3’/2’x2’. Any help is appreciated. Otherwise I’m just gonna get a marshydro ts600…which is a decent option as well, but figured I’d check in with you guys.

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A basic 150 watt bridgelux build will be more than enough for that

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Even a 100 watt Bridgelux build if your not intending to flower. However, I always like to build my spaces with the ability to do all stages. So a 150 watt Bridgelux as @Grease_Monkey said would be great. You can always dim it down to 100 watt for your purpose and have some flower power up your sleeve :wink:

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Plus it would be more spread out in a 3x3 vs crammed in a 2x2

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…and are these premade lights?..plug and play? I’m not very handy…lol

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@Tappy, Ah ok. No they are not :slight_smile: Yeah if you want plug and play and cheap then i think the TS600 is good. Like with any cheap light you usually need to treat them a bit more carefully. I would personally spend a little more and get something a little higher quality with a Meanwell driver and the latest Samsung chips. Most the cheap brands are now doing them for a reasonable price. I will see if i can see something comparable in power to that one and you can see the price difference.

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