Screwing it also has the benefit of clamping the tape, promising a good bond.
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I’m fascinated at the thought of alternative building materials for a light. In my case nobody will ever see the light but me. I don’t give a shit what it looks like!
Blessings…
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Using aluminum for the frame has two big advantages when using Bridgelux EB2 or EB3 or Thrive strips:
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Aluminum is light and rigid when used in angle form, so it prevents damage to the strips from sag when they’re secured to it. This is worth considering when designing the build because sag could ruin your strips by damaging the copper traces that bring power to each diode.
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If you’re running more than nominal power (700ma) to the strips, you have to provide a heatsink for them along their entire length. If you don’t, you run the risk of heat damaging your strips. 1" x 1" x 1/8" aluminum angle (or 1/8" thick plate) is a perfect heatsink for Bridgelux strips, providing more than enough heatsinking capacity up to max rated power of 1400ma each. Above that power, you’d want a real heatsink…and maybe a different, more robust strip.
If you build a frame out of alternative materials, you can’t run the strips over their rated power of 700ma. And you want to make damn sure the frame doesn’t allow the strips to sag or bend. Both of those concerns require precise engineering that I know I’m not capable of without a serious workshop. So, for me it’s just easier to build out of angle if you can find it cheap enough, or with aluminum plate when properly supported.
There’s lots of ways to skin the cat, but I wouldn’t recommend cheaping out on the materials, especially if your budget allows you to buy the right stuff, unless you know what you’re doing. DIY lights need to be done right, and that doesn’t include cutting corners.
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I have a question. Built a light 2 foot strips,10 strips, xlg 150 driver,
With the pentionemeter maxed out I read 140 watts at the wall is this accurate, or low? I was thinking it would be at least 150 doesn’t matter just want to make sure I am not overlooking something.
Thanks Chronickyle
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On the driver there should also be an internal potentiometer that you can also adjust as far as I’m aware and if that is not maxed out, then the max of your external will be limited to that.
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@Chronickyle correction to what @GnomeyByNature said yeah there will be an internal pot which is on the back side of the driver under the rubber plug, that potentiometer sets your amperage.
Now the correction don’t max that as one your driver will just shut down or flicker your lights as it will be over-driving too hard, also don’t get the temptation to overdrive it past max rated power as your driver with definitely have a shortened lifespan and wont last long.
Saying that your drivers “max” rated power is 150w at the strips so you can dial it in through measurement of voltage and current output, or just factor in the efficiency of around 90-92% of the XLG drivers and that would put a “max” value of 163-166w from the wall, obviously you can tune it to whatever you like below that and something i have done for arbitrary reasons such as being exactly 100w from the wall or whatever.
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Thank you so much, I will set it at max 150 from the wall for safety, or should I just leave it where I’m at?
Sorry, yeah def good call @Mr.Sparkle I was just kind of explaining the mechanics of it, but yeah I prob should have made that clear, my bad.
150 if you want, but as i said say 165w-ish from the wall will be the max you probably want to go to, and still be at or within the rated output
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The lumber working well for you?
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No complaints so far. I’ve had wood scrog screens in my rooms for years not even sealed or verathaned or anything. This one is all verathaned so should be even better. I will post a full write up of my build later on.
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Pay close attention to the thermals if you can, would be interested in cooling performance as well as how hot the surfaces touching the wood are. Shows potential, good work!
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All surfaces are touching thermal tape. Have only ran it for 30 minutes so far, no heat build up. Plan on running it longer today and monitoring it.
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Looking for recommended EB gen3 560mm mounting specs.
Are 3 screws sufficient or should do 5 or more?
Thanks
Iggy
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obviously more would be better, though i personally have no issues with say two for my 280mm strips which is the same as 3 for the 580mm.
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Thank you,
I couldn’t find any info in regards to this…
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I use 3 for the 1120mm (4ft) strips, so I’m sure 3 is fine for the 2fters. They’re really just there to keep the strips adhered to the thermal tape and the heatsinking surface. I’m even considering removing mine since they’ve been installed for months at this point, and I’m guessing the tape’s bond has cured.
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Yeah I know some tapes form that bond from the heat, I wonder if you taped them to aluminum or whatever the backing and actually flipped it upside for a break in period, where maybe you let them heat up for like 20min, turn it off and let it cure for the next 24 hours or so before you flip it back over?
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Ran my light for a few hours tonight at 160 watts. The driver was quite hot, just wanted to verify if that was normal. I can hold it in my hand for a few seconds but then it’s too hot, just to give an idea of the heat level.
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The xlg’s do get quite hot mine run around 50-55C for reference, so consider mounting them somewhere were they do get airflow, and yeah turning them down obviously does make them run cooler not that is what we do mind you thats where the whole overspecing drivers can have a bonus
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