How come you dont go for a combination of 27 and 50 K, either by getting a dual row bridgelux or by buying one of each strip and even-ing the build out… ex. 8 strips of each for a 16 strip build (2 ft or even 4 ft long strips)
The 40 k you tagged is a decent center balance but the center spectrum is sometimes controversial depending on who you speak too.
Good spot @ChemicalDependant they would of just added those recently as i didn’t know they carried those, essentially just double the output per strip at double the cost for the same gen of them anyways.
Would cut down on components though and i would expect almost double the heat generation so at least a metal backer plate for heatsinking may be needed though until tested im just guessing, but heck say you ran any of those at say 150% of nominal then 1 strip does the duty of three regular strips and that also means spot intensity is higher.
Good note for everyone still going the diy route forsure.
I was quite happy to see it when I looked to compare the strips. High part count can be annoying to troublesome. Every component adds a potential fault in the circuit. (To answer your question, @MAXIMAS01 )
I think 8 strips? For a 2x4 flower? I’m looking to keep it nominal, nice and cool.
That is true but there is a flip side to that as well, where if one of yours goes out, that’s a big chunk you lost, vs if one goes out of a higher quantity of components, then you’re down a lower percentage…
This of course does not apply to full series (not parallel) setups obviously, because that would take out the entire rig until rewired (if the voltage works) or you have a replacement part.
Yes, very true, my plan is to have a spare or two on hand. Or close to on hand, ie, maybe use it for seedlings so they aren’t just going unused. But that’s just one of the many reasons you would want to keep the array parallel. Reducing the strips also could reduce the cost of the frame. I think I’ll use an aluminum sheet so I won’t see any difference; but if you’re using a piece of flat bar behind every strip?
But as I see it, there is little to go wrong with them anyways, simple PCB, and if there is damage to a board I have the facilities to repair somewhat.
These were mentioned and vetted on another forum last year. The consensus was they don’t offer any benefit over using double the amount of the normal gen 3 strips, and there are negatives - such as what @Mr.Sparkle brought up with heat. I’m a big fan of low diode density (within reason) for heat and shadows and intensity concerns.
Just use 10x gen2 3500k strips for your 2x4 and call it good. The Gen 3 strips from futureelectronics.com are now almost as cheap, so you might go with those! Mount to an appropriate piece of metal for heatsinking and rigidity, and power with a 320h for veg/flower, or a 240h (hlg or xlg) for veg.
Also, Vestas aren’t great. They’re OK, but the single CCT strips are overall better.
And RE @MAXIMAS01 comment about combining spectrum (which isn’t necessary anymore when using modern white LED lights) did anyone see Bruce Bugbee’s latest videos? Or what about LED Gardener’s review of the Grow Light Science Grow 300? Great info about spectrum (don’t need much blue at all for optimal growth, max of about 15% for veg) and how adding UV isn’t showing a lot of good returns, but can be very detrimental to plant health.
I see 20 and 100 piece minimums… would 20 be overkill? I mean I know it is. The thought of using 20 2ft strips did occur to me though.
Or I’ll just look elsewhere, but that’s not as fun lol.
20 of the 560mm strips over 8sqft thats what you’d want if running at or near nominal, also will allow you to over drive them though you will need the drivers to support that say 400w worth which is overkill though it’s only like $12usd more to go with two xlg-200’s vs say two xlg-150s , so to me that’s a no brainer
The EB gen3 Thrives have shit efficacy, but the spectral output is bonkers. Lots of typically ignored pigments addressed. I’m stoked to build with them.
Hey guys, starting to think about switching over from HPS
. Right now I run two 1000 w on magnetic ballast, room is 6x8 w/9’celing, I run a raised garden with slotted shelves and perpetual grow with multiple strains.
Would probably like to go 2 lights so I can adjust height to tops With shelves and light cords. Frame making is no problem, electrical work is probably doable with instruction.
Any help appreciated…
For a 6x8 just due to the size id be looking into commercial options instead as it just will be easier, just personal opinion here and id be doing the same even if i advocate building lights alot, honestly its just alot of space to cover and build for when you could buy 2-4 bigger led light setups and hang them and be done with them.
Just picked up 6 18x26 aluminum sheet pans for $20. Great shape.
So lets talk thermal adhesive tape. People who have used this. Hows it holding up?
On my new build i wanna minimize time spent drilling as this took a good deal of time and a couple strips holes were off slightly and caused a bow in those strips. Also my 4x4 build is wobbly due to the size. Wanna build something more rigid this go.
At $3.33 per these sheet pans were a no brainer. 1" aluminum Ls are $16 for an 8footer
I found this tape extremely sticky.
And a major pain in the arse to remove a strip once attached.
Sounds good for me because once on where are you going? No where!
Measure twice. Adhere once.
Got 6 of these pans. 4 strips per pan.
Killer deal.
Anyone incorporating any deep and far red into their builds?
Do u have on a separate driver or run it continuously?
you sound like your on our way …something I’m looking to get into creating my own vs china made…keep us posted on your progress 
sound like you going to be my inspiration
Just wanted to send a quick thank you to everyone who posted their builds and help everyone out with this. All I have left is to wire the strips together and to the driver and my lights are complete!
A word of caution, the datasheet calls out 18-24 AWG solid for the interconnect wiring.
Cheers
G
