I went with the Bridgelux EB gen3’s 4’, run cool enough no heat sink needed. I bought enough to replace 6 HPS-600watt, cost was about $110 per unit using wood framing, for 6 units.
It was Mr.Sparkie put me on them I’m a dummy when it came to that stuff.
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The Gen3 slims are on my avoid list since they hold onto heat a bit more than the bigger surface area strips, the non-slims are good and get a bit better efficiency than the Gen2 strips. The new Bridgelux Gen3 "Thrive"s are the sort of thing I’d like to try out even if they cost twice what the Gen2’s do… CRI 98
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DigiKey gives price breaks on multi unit purchases.
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And for more price hunting fun for these parts there’s Octopart.com and FindChips.com 
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Thanks XtraGood.
I bookmarked that link to my build file.
Appreciate that.
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@MoBilly a good option I’d like to suggest is for your 4x4 space is to break it down and build. 2 lights. Build 2 seperate 2 X 4 lights. Verify your tent is 48 inches across and build 2 frames that are 22 x 46 inches in size. Use I think it’s 17 22 inch strips and a xlg 240. I’ll find the links above later. But it’s all in here.
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Thanks Chronickyle! I’ll be looking for your notice.
BTW. I’m building it now. It’ll be an 8x10 room with what I need designated to the grow. @Chronickyle
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Haha I don’t know much. I just read enough here to build a good light leaning on the knowledge of others. I sat down and started reading this thread from post 1 till it finally clicked.
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The build @Chronickyle mentioned is the same one I built. 17x Gen2 22in strips and an XLG-240-L-AB. There’s a couple of them in the thread. Ill see if I can round a good one up for ya.
Edit: this thread got huge! Can’t find one, so I’ll just show you mine. There’s plenty of info on wiring them up and such in the first 200 posts or so of the thread. I recommend using 18g solid wire, and get an AB version of the driver so you can attach a 100K dimmer pot and adjust the light easily. I used the XLG-240-L-AB and 17x Bridgelux Gen2 560mm strips.
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This is how it’s connected. I checked connections and they’re tight. I am using a transformer because it has US plug and I’m in EU. I bought the cord for EU and just put it on and when I pluggged it in I got no light. Looking on my qb 132 boards there is only and red and black dot. Instead of + or -. Red is positive correct and black is negative. Am I gonna mess up the lights if I wire it backwards and plug it in.
I bought all this when I read a detail thread and they were a breeze to put together a couple years ago. My electrical experience is low.
Any help is appreciated!
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What is the transformer you are using?
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I hooked the US cord back up and lights came on. I also have a set of the 120 boards on a 240-2100b. I changed that cord to the EU plugs and have no problems. I was waiting to do this one until I got an EU smart plug to use as a timer. I’m using a US smart plug now off the transformer.
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It’s a step up and down transformer. The EU is 220v and I have US stuff that’s 110. This allows me to plug in US stuff and run it in the EU.
That’s why I was changing cords so I could plug into the wall and not use the transformer. I have fans running of the transformer as well. Supposedly with the difference in Hz it will eat into the life of the fans, but I’m not gonna just let them sit around. I’ll let them die and then buy 220 fans.
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Yeah I had the same problem when I emigrated to Canada, I had to buy a step up for all my UK stuff I brought with me.
The meanwell drivers can be used for 110 and 220 I believe. The other thing here is black wires are live and white is neutral. They don’t have red which was very confusing at first lol. You should see how they wire up a house ring main here, uses about 10 times the wire you would use in the UK.
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Ya I wanted to switch plug so I could go right into the wall and ditch the transformer.
Ya the breakers here look different also. It’s kinda confusing with limited electrical experience.
I’m gonna give the other plug a shot later. Just flipping to 12/12 so a couple days of weird light will be fine.
Thanks for help!
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Hey, we don’t like to do things any way other than our way, ok? Never mind if it’s smarter.
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Its a government gouge, having a code that makes you use vastly more wire than you need, and more breakers as well 
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MeanWell drivers usually (but not always) are able to auto-sense the input AC voltage from 90-400v or something like that. No stepdown required. Gotta check the spec sheets to be sure. They’re always more efficient at higher input voltage, so definitely go that route.
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@nube beat me to it… check the label on the driver, it should show input voltages.
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