Couldn’t stay away?
6 Likes
Photosynthesis is the singlemost important factor that decides plant growth. This has been shown scientifically time and again. It simply provides the energy for anything else, even nutrient mobilization, assimilation, translocation, and it also causes the transpirational pull. There is only 1 little exception and that is a sprout in its first initial days can take energy from fatty substances stored in its cotyledons to grow roots and lengthen the hypocotyl until it finds direct light and the apical hook opens.
Removing leaves in veg is going to create a more branchy plant structure. Because shaded parts stretch more due to less luminous flux received and a changed phytochrome stationary state. It’s way different indoors than outdoors. Electric light is inferior in many (not all) ways. An experienced indoor grower knows if, when and where to train his plant, in order to accomodate his phenotypes to his setup and goals.
Excessive defoliation will surely be accompanied by some mass loss (less leaves equate less photosynthesis, crudely speaking, plus loss of already aquired mass) and needs more time (=cost) in veg to compensate this out. Which, in a rapidly growing plant, can be setoff quickly. Later in flower it can be really lossy, which can still be acceptable if better bagappeal or else is the ulterior motive. Not sure if selective pruning would cause any losses whatsoever, it could be within a “tolerance” due to surplus.
Some hormone-effects on leafloss where plants raise their immune system and also create more roots. There’s evidence showing that pheromones from broken leaves have an effect.
Plant nutrition needs to be within acceptable levels and genetic dictates alot of what happens, from there it’s the raw number of net photons projected over an area that will cause an almost linear relationship with yield, up to some hardcaps.
The Osmocote is really good stuff, seen a side by side with Cannabis and it won as it will just create very healthy green leaves even late flower. These are time-released synthetic nutes that release with each subsequent watering, that reduces salt buildup and guarantees a steady supply of essential ions dissolved in the soil solution.
3 Likes
Perhaps I send 3 feminized photo Cap Junky seeds each to @Jetdro and @OldUncleBen and the two of you have a grow-off? OldUncleBen using whichever methods he chooses and same for Jetdro. Start all 3 seeds and prior to flipping you select your best plant of the three. You veg the same amount of days and flip on the same day. The winner is the grower with the highest dry weight from their best plant.
Anyone have any other suggestions to make this more even? I think it’s PUOSU time.
5 Likes
Why don’t you do the grow off lol
: ) do a side by side : )
6 Likes
If F1 seed interested , if F2 I’m not , not into hunting through F2 ‘s , just not my thing , more an F1 guy
1 Like
I have a suggestion. Just don’t do it. This isn’t gonna prove anything, it’s just gonna start more arguments… there are a million other variables that will affect the outcome other than defoliation technique. If you really want to, I’d agree with @ifish - do it your damn self, then post the results. It still won’t change any minds - unless we all know that you can grow two plants exactly, 100% identically they’ll be picked apart by people who are gonna believe what they want to believe anyway, so it’s pretty much irrelevant.
9 Likes
agree
I don’t dislike the idea, but ten seeds is the minimum amount to go somewhere with averages. And at the condition that the line you’re talking about is known to be rockstable.
In a perfect world, it have to expanded to a good dozen of different growers. With the same batch of seeds.
I think the grow off is already completed. I think you guys just like to argue but won’t admit it. This is only my third post in this thread and UncleBen has run me off. Have fun ya’ll.
1 Like
yeppers, root mass having the biggest impact, but who really cares about those useless parts?
1 Like
Don’t let him scare you off. He’s not scary.
2 Likes
They just words on a screen lol
1 Like
A crabby know it all coot but not scary.
3 Likes
Haha we all are : )
1 Like
Too many other fun threads on here to enjoy. He’s all yours. 
3 Likes
Haha! You’re a fast learner.
1 Like
Alright, you mother pluckin’ experts, where do I start a pluckin’? Haven’t lost a leaf since she popped the soil on Feb. 7, about 7 weeks ago. 20/4 photoperiod.
The thick, rich green spotless foliage is so thick it’s hard for me to separate the good stuff and go deep into the thick of it with mah…
(that’s what she said). 
This pure (deep chunk F2) indica is 15" tall from the ground up. Been in veg long enough. Time to go 12/12. Bet I see every bit of a 3" “stretch” LOL.
No tent, fed only with Osmocote 15-9-12.
9 Likes
Holly sh … this one is just bestiality in the vegetal reign lol Beauttifull.
2 Likes
Agree, the question is what is the humidity over there … 
1 Like
Thanks!
Being a sativa grower all my life and playing with sativa mutts, this pure indica stuff is new to me. Just like with sativas there’s a learning curve, the main being you need to let it veg for a long time. With sativas or da mutts I can usually jump to 12/12 in as little as 3 weeks. https://mycotopia.net/HTFaq/1321.htm
You’ll notice under the sub heading of “Popcorn anyone?” there is no side light penetration and needless to say, no leaf pluckin’.
The internodes on the deep chunks originals and their worked ‘derivatives’ (by Tom Hill and Cannacopia) are so damn short, it’s unreal. I’m used to working with 4-12" long internodes!
I ordered the original 1970 Deep (Freak) Chunk seeds from Mandala and a friend gifted me Tom Hill’s Monkey Balls and Cannacopia stuff like the Lapis Mtn. indica and Chocolate Chunk.
Uncle Ben
3 Likes