DIY LED 150w SolStrip X1 Build

Hi there @Larry3215, seems to me that your math is correct. I was assuming that there was a dynamic relationship between Amps and Volts, however in the graph that is a static result no matter effective Amp or Volt.

I run my driver in CV mode. In the HLG series drivers Type A the the volts and current are controlled with a screw driver that will increase as you turn.

I have been very busy however I bring out the multimeter and see what is measured. My guess is your math is correct. Thanks for bring this to my attention.

Hi Roux, I sure wish I could find a user guide for these drivers. Im curious to see what you get when you do those measurements. Im going to have an in-line Wattmeter on my setup that will show the driver output volts and amps in real time. I’ll be sure to post my results as well.

That last image I posted “Driving Methods of LED module” is not really very clear to me. The wording is a poor translation at best and Im not clear on the “Constant Current region” they have circled on the graph. Its a confusing way to express this. Based on the specs for voltage and current ranges, I would have expected a different shape to that graph. I also would have expected the CC “region” to be the area under the curve rather than the knuckle where they show that bend in the curve.

Looking at the line where it says this:

In the constant current region, the highest voltage at the output of the driver
depends on the configuration of the end systems.

I am taking that to mean that the driver output voltage will be determined by the number of LED’s in series. In other words, if you have 8 LED’s in series, thats 3 x 8 = 24 volts. BUT - that voltage will be based on the current draw at the time.

As far as operating in Constant Voltage mode, I dont see how thats possible. LED’s dont survive constant voltage unless there is a way to limit current flow - resistors, zeners, CC power supply, etc. You must have something in the circuit that limits current flow or they go into runaway mode and die.

Did your driver come with instructions for setting the voltage/current - hopefully with some better details on how it works?

The “Installation Guide” is no better than this PDF and has zero to say about settings, adjustments, etc.

Here is how I “think” these drivers work based on my other experience with CCCV supplies…keep in mind I have never touched one of these specific drivers, and cant find any detailed instructions, so take this with a (very) large grain of salt :slight_smile:

Since these are designed specifically to drive LED’s, I am assuming they must prioritize the CC mode when operating as long as you have the settings within the ranges listed in the specs. Again, because if they didnt, there would be instant runaway of the current and burned up LED’s if the current wasnt limited.

I think the voltage setting is going to work like an upper limit while the current setting has priority. In other words, you set the current to a certain value within the spec’ed range, and the driver will increase the voltage until that amount of current is flowing - up to the limit set by the voltage pot.

Thats going to work in reverse to some degree. If the voltage gets turned down to a voltage thats less than the total of the series voltage of the LED’s, then the current will drop to what ever level is dictated by the graph above that shows the voltage/current relationship. The current will still be limited and have priority over voltage changes.

In other words, if you set the voltage output to be say 3 volts/led, the current will go up to 2 amps per LED - IF - both total voltage and total current of all the LED’s on the board falls within the adjustment range of the driver.

At the same time, if you turn UP/DOWN down the voltage or the current settings, the total other one will increase/drop no matter what the setting is - all based on that graph showing the current vrs voltage of each LED.

Once things have settled, the current will be held constant - as long as both current and voltage fall within the adjustment range.

I hope that makes sense. I didnt express it very well.

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Well, I was wrong about at least some of my thinking on how these drivers work.

  1. Turns out you cant turn the strips off by lowering the voltage. The driver automatically keeps the voltage at the minimum level needed to light the led’s no matter how far you turn it down. In my case, thats 20.5 volts.

  2. My minimum power level, with both pots turned down all the way, is 4.7 watts total = 20.5 volts x .23 amps.

  3. Im maxing out at around 330 watts, but I havent let it stay there very long.

Im running a series of tests now and will report back later.

Oh - Im also a bone head and made two major mistakes. Luckily, neither broke anything.

Be careful when you insert the 18 ga wires into the strips and dont push them in TOO FAR. You will break the locking tabs off the connectors! Fortunately, the connectors still hold the wires in just fine and they are removable, but its more difficult.

I also did another major bonehead move and connected two of the strips with reverse polarity. They survived, but I dont recommend doing that either!

More notes and some pics later…

Oh - if I turn down the amp pot so the amp draw is below the rated minimum current level - 6.67 amps in my case, the strips flicker. That must be what they are talking about with the “hickup protection”.

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Rather than cross post, Im going to put my test results in the main Solstrip thread.

Thank you so much for this great DIY project @Roux. I’d like to get away from the heat of my 216W of high output fluoros and 750W hps. I’m a do it myself kind of guy. I very much appreciate the model to follow. This is another of your projects to work into my budget, the other being your rosin vise. :yum:

Keep growing strong


Hello growers, I have a small box of 40x40 so I want to ask where can I buy The Quantum QB288?

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Not many places you can get them but you can try ebay or alibaba for unbranded versions, probably cheaper but you take your chances…

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Not being rude not replying on FB brother @Albannach I have a 30day lie down for my not very PC political anti Islam postings. #freetommy

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Alrite bro hope your holidays going well, the free tommy thing is a tinder keg and they are frantically stamping out anything that appears to them to be a spark. Fu*k FB it’s a stinking pile of :poop: . You have to wonder about a guy who thinks it’s fine to distribute unbelievable brutality but considers breastfeeding obscene. Posting pics of things like a bacon sarnie can get you banned too lol

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I will be the spark. Ask me if I give a fuck. My grandad didn’t fight in a war for us to hand ourselves over to fucking pakis. Holidays awesome. Tomorrow is boat day for me :sunglasses::sunglasses::sunglasses:


How much did it cost to build that light buddy and what’s the light coverage bro thanks good looking bit of kit :+1::8ball:

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Hey up mate how ur jollies man hope ur having a good holiday brutha :+1::smile: @Colanoscopy

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He says early in the thread about $175 with the driver.


Sorry missed it that seems really worth doing but without tools an shit and some basic wiring knowledge I’d be fucked lol

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That’s why we sell SolSheets



Ihi pal I’ve got a 80x80x160cm tent how much would It cost to light it mate

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More than stated with shipping to yorkshire bro I can assure you. I’m selling stix at £30 a piece at the minute if you get in fast. I’d recommend ordering a driver from mouser as I have no choice to mark up prices a bit. And the lead time will be longer if I had to order one for you so it would be counter productive brother

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So what would I need mate

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