SolStrip LED lighting: Product info and announcements

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#103

Hello everyone! My first post here. I joined mainly to learn more about SolStrips. At first I was thinking of getting the SolSheetX, but after giving it some thought, perhaps I would be better off getting several SolStix and putting them together myself. I already got some helpful feedback from Baudelaire, but I still have a few more questions, and I figured, if I ask here it may be helpful for others to see the replies.

I have a growspace of just under 3x3 ft (and I would eventually like to expand it a bit to a full 3x3). I was thinking of getting 7 SolStix and running them at 40 watt each. Since the flowering cycle takes a bit more priority in my setup, I thought I would get 4x3500K and 3x2700K. I hope this would improve the yield, but more importantly, the quality of my medicine. Do you think this is a good idea, or should I just stick to 7x3500K?

I see from the photos that the SolStix do not come with wires. What kind of wire should I use and is it difficult to assemble the system? I have virtually zero experience with how electronics work. The only relevant tools I have are a screwdriver and crimping tool for fixing the ends of wires. As far as I can tell, there would be no soldering or drilling involved, is this correct?

I was also wondering about the MeanWell driver. I presume that for 7 SolStrips running at 40watt each I would need to deliver 280 watt, so the appropriate driver would be 320 watt model, since the 240 watt one would not be enough (right?). So I would use the 320watt driver, dimmed down a bit? Baudelaire said the driver can be dimmed down as far as 50%, so I guess the lowest wattage the 320 driver will run at is 160 watt (about 23 watt per strip in my setup)? I know these are probably dumb questions, but like I said I don"t really know anything about electronics.

That"s all I could think of for now. Thanks so much for any feedback!

4 Likes
#104

Oh yeah one more thing, if I have the 320 watt driver, and end up removing a strip or two, it would still deliver the same wattage? So it would use the same amount of electricity but each strip would use more?

#105

Welcome @8amandarin! I hope you figure out what you need to know.

#106

The 320-24 pushes 13.3A at full power. That is 1900ma for 7 strips. Removing a strip would push you over the rated amperage, 2200ma for 6 and 2660ma for 5. You will deliver the same wattage, but push more amps per strip, which isn’t a wise idea over 2100ma.

You could use the potentiometer to trim the current if you’re using fewer strips, but be aware that turning it up to max could be pushing your strips too hard and hot. Samsung LM561 diodes are tough little components, but you’ll reduce their effective life if you push them too hard, and you’re sacrificing photon efficiency to run harder, too.

Better to have more boards run softer, if you can swing it.

1 Like
#107

I will share my opinions with you - no charge :wink:

I have a slighyl smaller tent than yours - about 2.5’x3’ or about 7 sq ft. I have a total of 6 strips arranged in 3 rows of 2 strips, end to end, in each row.

This gives a nice even spread of light all across the entire canopy. With an odd number of strips, all arranged side by side, you will have a harder time getting them spread out so the light hitting the canopy is evenly distributed. Two strips, end to end, is just about right to span a 3 ft space with a little space at each end and in the middle. You just need enough rows to get even light all the way across in the other direction. So, I would suggest either 6 strips or 8 strips.

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To do that, you will need to build a frame of some type to mount them too. That will require some drilling of small holes and some cutting of aluminum chanel or angle iron of some type. You can get the solstick heatsinks and that will make it easier or make your own heatsinks if you have a source of aluminum like I did.

You need two different kinds of wire for your fixture. You need multi-strand, flexible wire to run from the MeanWell driver to the light fixture. That will let you mount the driver outside the grow space to help with cooling. The drivers run very hot and will add a LOT of heat tot he grow tent. That also makes it easier to get to the adjustment pots to turn them up/down.

You should get at least 14 ga stranded wire for that run from the driver to the fixture. Regular lamp cord will work fine if its the correct gauge wire.

Once you get to the fixture, you change over to 2 conductor, solid core, 18 ga wire. That is the correct size and type to plug into the connectors on the solstrips.

You will need to crimp, or solder the stranded wire to the solid wire or you could use wire nuts or a terminal block of some type. You will of course, need to run a separate pair of the solid core 18 ga wires to each solstrip so they are all wired in parallel.

Its really not that hard to do. There is another build thread on here showing most all the steps you need to take to do it yourself. I’ll see if I can find a link…

7 Likes
#108

Several people have posted details and pics of how they built their lights in this thread. My details are back around Jan 6th.

This thread has lots of good build pics and details too.

2 Likes
#109

i was looking at the solstrip site and couldnt buy said was out of stock i want 2x red and blue with heatsinks and 4 solstrips with heatsinks what is the best for veg and bloom and do you know when there will be more stock please help

1 Like
#110

You can PM @Baudelaire directly and he will get back to you pretty quick. I think he mentioned stock resuppy dates earlier in the thread!

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#111

I would like to buy some Solstix for my Mother/clone cabinet but the confusing part is which drivers do I (or anyone else) need for X number of strips, I would suggest putting here and on the website in the driver section how many each driver will run and at what amperage ( when the driver is running at max ).

onto my next question, I would like to run 6 strips/Stix but in two sections of 3… I would like to have 3 run at full power when there are no clones in the cabinet and just growing the mothers but once clones are taken and for the next few weeks i would like to run the whole 6 strips at half power… now with the right driver for 3 strips to run at full power can I just add a switch to turn on the other strips and they would all run at half power?

2 Likes
#112

Well, figuring out what driver is pretty simple.

The solstrips are designed to use 24v @ 2.1A maximum. This gives you approx 50.4W per strip at full power. However, I can’t recommend you running them at full power unless you have very good cooling.

For simplicity, let’s assume full power is ~33w. Also, for everything below, let’s assume you purchased the strips with their intended heatsinks.

33x3 is 100w (rounded up).
To run these three strips at full power (remember, implied 33w per strip full power), go with HLG-100H-24a, however, adding 3 more strips makes this driver not a good selection. You can either go with a larger driver, and just turn them down or up based on the number of strips you are running, or run two drivers (easier to wire an on off switch on the 120/220v side of things)

They also make other rated supplies.

AGAIN: SolStrips should not be ran at MAX without excellent cooling(active cooling strongly recommended)

HLG-150H-24A = 3 strips @ 50w each. 6 strips would be 25w each.
HLG-180H-24A = 3 strips @ 60w (EXCEEDING RATED MAX) however, 6 strips would run at a comfy 30w each, this is a very good efficiency and will run cool with minimal cooling. Passive air flow in the cab should keep strips ran @ 30w cool no problem.

How to decipher HLG’s item numbers.

HLG - [Wattage]H - [Voltage][Type of dimmer]

So we know the Wattage number, 100, 150, 180 is pretty self explanatory.

The Voltage is self explanatory as well,
The type of dimmer is simple, but I don’t use type B’s as they require external 10v source/pots Type A has everything included into the driver and can be adjusted with a screwdriver.

In the end, I’d just get the HLG-180H-24a and run all 6 strips full time @ 30w per strip. You can always turn it down when you have clones. A kill-a-watt is handy for adjusting this.

Edit: Also, all these drivers I listed assume parallel wiring.

4 Likes
#113

Hey thanks heaps @Jellypowered, from your info I can confidently organise my build.

I will do the split system like I was planning with the 150H driver that way half the lights wont be lighting nothing at all when there are no clones and the mothers can be at full steam ahead to be ready to take the next cuts ( even if I turn the driver down a smidge) but at no time will there be overload on any component.

There is always ample airflow through my setups as well as oscillating internal airflow. once again thank you for your help.

It would still be handy for potential clients if the website had similar charts ie:

12 strips would be 12.5 watts each,
etc. with all the other drivers.

Even a “build your own” page that you choose the overall wattage that you want and then the number of strips and it would only let you choose the relevant drivers

Happy days.

2 Likes
#114

@Pedro_Bann anytime! Be sure to post your build up :slight_smile:

1 Like
#115

Hey @Jellypowered how do you know the exact watts you run your solstrips? Do you have any wattmeter conected or something? How will I know that my strips are running at 70%? :slight_smile: thank a lot :slight_smile:

1 Like
#116

I use an outlet power monitor, specifically I use the Kill-a-watt. They have us/eu plug ones. I plug my light into it, adjust the pots until the readout displays my desired wattage, after that, simply plug my light back into my timer :slight_smile:

4 Likes
#117

While that may not take into account net system efficiency losses, it’s a pretty ingenious method to tune an HLG type A driver. I think I’m going to be ordering my components next week for my solstrip build. Just need to convince the wife again that it’s a worthwhile investment :sweat_smile:

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#118

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Meanwell are pretty damn efficient, it’s close enough for me lol. The proof is in the buds!

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#119

I went with the 120-watt driver for my 3-strip system. They run cool as a cucumber.

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#120

I highly recommend getting a Kill-a-Watt meter to dial-in your SolStrip system, especially DIY builds. They are cheap and very useful for finding the sweet spot of output and efficiency.

Driver Selection

@Pedro_Bann I hear you on driver suggestions and will implement your idea on at the Solstrip website. @Jellypowered has offered you some solid advice in that regard.

The truth is there are many possible options for drivers depending not only on the number of strips per circuit, but also the type and design of your strip circuit(s). But the mission of Photon Solutions is to bring simplicity to LED DIY, so based on a parallel-wired system, these are my basic driver suggestions:

  • 3 SolStrips (SolSheet Original): CLG-100-24A ($34.99) or HLG-150H-24A ($49.99).
    The CLG will max out at a very efficient 33w/strip, the HLG with max out the strip’s 50w capacity and then some, as the HLGs tend to run about 15% above their rated power (~165w).

  • 4 SolStrips: HLG-150H-24A ($49.99) or HLG-185H-24A ($59.99)

  • 5 SolStrips (SolSheet X): HLG-185H-24A ($59.99) or HLG-240H-24A ($74.99)

  • 6-8 SolStrips: HLG-240H-24A ($74.99) or HLG-320H-24A ($89.99)

  • 8-12 SolStrips: HLG-320H-24A ($89.99) or HLG-480H-24A ($144.99)

I highly recommend getting the lower powered driver over the “max power” suggestion. The physics of LED chips make them most efficient at about 70% of their rated max, or about 33-36 watts for SolStrip X2s. You can drive them at 100% if you want, presuming you keep them cooled within their operating range (I aim for 50-60C max). But you will get less than 15% more light for expending 30% more electricity.

Basic LED DIY system rule: Run your LEDs soft; and your drivers hard.

Running your strips at around 70% by using a driver which has a maximum output slightly below the total maximum rating of the SolStrip circuit (using 50w X number of strips) makes for the most efficient and cost-effective use of both the SolStrips and the driver. The LEDs are most efficient at around 2/3 of their max output, and the drivers are most efficient when run at 100% of their max output.

Nobody (well, almost nobody) says “I just bought a 135 mph car.” We buy cars that will go that fast, but mostly run them at 50-80 mph (apologies to the kilometer folks). We COULD always drive them at 135 mph, but we would waste a lot of gas and wear out the car much more quickly.

LEDs aren’t like HID bulbs, which are optimized to run only at their maximum rated power. LEDs are more like cars, able to operate across a range of output, with a maximum and minimum wattage, and an efficiency sweet spot somewhere in-between. Aim for the sweet-spot when selecting your driver, not the maximum. You’ll save money and be more satisfied with your results.

-b420

10 Likes
#121

Good post!

Sounds like how I drive my car!

6 Likes
#122

I would highly recommend getting two SolSheet X complete kits with a single 320w driver on a split cable to run both in tandem. Perfect for your space, and can be put together with a screwdriver, a utility knife and needle-nose pliers. The kits do all the rest of the heavy lifting - including cabling the driver with a T-splitter and screw-together connectors.

The SolStix arrays require circuit wiring knowledge, soldering and cord splicing skills, and some drilling. Not hard at all, but necessary for success.

As for your color temperature ideas, you are thinking about it correctly. One of the advantages of SolStrips is that they can be combined in different CCT ratios to build a custom spectrum to suit your needs. Your idea of 4x 3500K plus 3x 2700K would give you a blended average CCT of 3157K, a terrific spectrum for a flower space.

Want to replicate your HPS spectrum that’s worked so well for you? Go straight 2700K.
Want a little more blue? Combine two 3500K strips with three 2700K strips. Prefer a lot of blue in the flower room to keep those sativa hybrids tamed? Use three 3500K strips with two 5000K strips. Have a clone, veg and/or mother space? Straight 5000K will keep them healthy, fat and squat. Virtually any spectrum that is useful for growing can be created by blending together the three SolStrip CCTs.

-b420

6 Likes