A total nube's DIY LED build šŸ› 

Yeah, I thought about that and used what I had. Two conductor wire worked well for that extra jacket, and larger conductor count could work, but then you have wires going across more than one strip, or the same pigtail just shorter. The biggest thing that would clean it up imho is a terminal strip with bus wires between the terminals. But thatā€™s more money and part of me doing this is to save money vs. something I could buy.

Speaking to that point, there is no value or savings to be realized from making your own DIY soldered boards. Youā€™d be much better off engineering and laying out the boards, then sending your Gerber files to a Chinese QB shop and getting them shipped to you. Thatā€™s how a lot of folks have done it on other forums, but itā€™s only really worthwhile if you have a 50pc minimum. Or just buy from the huge selection of boards that are already out there. Or just buy strips and call it good, since their spread is better from a heat and light distribution perspective than boards anyway. :wink:

Thanks for stopping by and adding to the discussion. :slight_smile: I think the SolStix are a decent product from a good company, but I personally donā€™t want to use them for a few reasons.

First and foremost, I have to ask why would someone want a tunable light? Whatā€™s the use case scenario? Itā€™s a reasonable thing, but it feels like weā€™ve been marketed to believe thereā€™s some benefit. Yet, curiously, I havenā€™t seen much science showing a benefit from modulating the spectrum. Is there proof that changing the spectrum helps any cultivar over its lifespan? Seems like added complexity for no return. In my mind, the value proposition for tunable lights is really narrow - essentially only maybe benefiting a single growspace from seedling to harvest, and even then itā€™s questionable. I also donā€™t want to have to supplement anything to my lights, so getting it all from one diode reduces the cost and complexity of my build.

Secondly, I prefer single row diode strips instead of boards or multi-row strips for two reasons - heat and light distribution. In a home grow, I want the most diodes spread evenly across the largest area above my canopy. This reduces hotspots for both temps and light spread, making it easier to cool without the need for expensive and bulky heatsinks, and making light penetration better because there are no shadows in a properly-defoliated canopy.

Penetration has always been a silly thing since stoners mistakenly equate penetration with light intensity. Theyā€™re not the same thing. Pretty much only green and red photons penetrate (go through) multiple leaves, and even then itā€™s a ridiculous concept because theyā€™re not helping you photosynthesize in the leaves they go through. Shadows mean essentially no penetration and no photosynthesis below anywhere thatā€™s shaded. You reduce shadows by having as many point sources for every single calyx in your canopy, and removing leaves selectively to achieve that.

Lastly, I want lots of diodes run at very low power for maximum efficiency so I can run the fixtures closest to the tops without heat or light stress, reducing wall losses (walls are only 85% reflective, at most, meaning you lose photons for all reflections). Higher density boards usually try to accomplish the opposite - fewer diodes run at higher power, meaning you have to run them higher power and height both for light spread and intensity. This defeats the purpose of my using LEDs, to some degree, and also lowers lifespan from the diodes. Higher current and heat = shorter lifespan in all electronics.

I think the better thing to do is to hone your craft. Get better at growing. Everyone will see much much MUCH bigger gains from simply getting better at growing than they will from extra complex and expensive lighting. And this goes for me as much as it goes for anyone. We all want to theorycraft every angle, but in the end, simply picking better phenos and practicing growing will result in a lot more tangible gain than any of the complexity weā€™ve been sold on by the cannabis lighting industry.

Anyway, those are my thoughts. I could be wrong on all accounts - Iā€™m no expert - so Iā€™d love to see the data supporting tunable lights. :slight_smile:

Amazon! Search for 3 conductor gland connectors. Thereā€™s tons of options.

7 Likes

Yes, yes, and maybe a third yesss. Parasitic animals will happily sell you magic. I trust those with nothing to gain most. Nothing in life is free- but somethings are damn near it. Like you say, there is not much money to be saved on the board. Thatā€™s why I may end up diode swapping some out to make an IR illumination. That would leave me with a bunch of perfectly fine diodes; if I ever get some MCPCB scrap Iā€™ll maybe do it for shits and giggles, but Iā€™m done looking at grow lights, lol, Iā€™m just referring to your build.

2 Likes

Good points Nube. The tunability is more of a want than a need. I realize there is nothing conclusive re: research. If Iā€™m using the dual-band SolStix the ability to modify the color temperature is already there. Surely, for the cost of a couple potentiometers and some wire, having the tunability is a nice bonus. Might never use it, might soon find out there is benefit.

In my case, the heat should be a non-issue (or no more an issue than for single-row strips) as the SolStix are attached to beefy aluminum heat sinks. Iā€™m also using an open design and Iā€™m OCD about air movement.

I would argue there is negligible difference in light distribution once youā€™re 2-3 inches away from the fixture. Wouldnā€™t the cones of light put out by the LEDs overlap in a few inches? I accept the actual distribution of the light may be nominally more even with single strips but it has to be marginal. I always rotate my plants in place and in the grow space so this is not overly important to me.

I would hope anyone who grows is constantly working on the craft to become better. Certainly, most here on OG are devoted enough to hone their craft. I work every day to learn more to be the best grower I can be.

Iā€™m still in the planning phase so I appreciate the conversations in these light threads. I will start a build log soon. Thanks again.

Kev

2 Likes

All for the spread out multipoint light sources for coverage obviously something to consider is a more intense light source will have a greater vertical distance that it will be effective in a ā€œhappy growth zoneā€ per say which the ā€œstonersā€ inaccurately call penetration, where as a dimmer but multipoint source will achieve better coverage though at the expense of having that greater depth it can work at, essentially the further away you can get that ā€œhappy zoneā€ away from the source the greater the usable depth or height that zone becomes, obvious disadvantage is it becomes less efficient to do so as energy is being wasted and absorbed by the air and walls as it falls off just trying to get to that point.

Also for the drivers the HLGā€™s have the ability to run over spec due to them being variable in both current and voltage to fit a wider range of application example say a bit lower voltage but higher current or higher voltage but less current within the range they work in to equal their rated output running them overdriven just puts more load on them which can prematurely make them fail, XLGā€™s you can overdrive too but they arenā€™t as robust as the hlgā€™s in those regards and best practice for longevity is just to run them at spec output or less.

2 Likes

Also agree with @nube the whole split color temp is just a sales gimmick which isnā€™t really needed and typically a waste considering the spectrum of light that white leds throw out.

2 Likes

:joy:

:evergreen_tree:

2 Likes

Value proposition time. Hereā€™s an interesting comparison between the lights @Vagabond_Windy and I just built with EB3 4ft strips vs. the Alibaba and the boutique brands on a few lighting metrics:

Windy:


(ignore the last column because itā€™s not super helpful)

The other lights

:sun_with_face:

:rainbow:

:peace_symbol:

@The_Lazy_Hippie

13 Likes

10 posts were split to a new topic: Considering Mars Hydro

:clap: :+1:

Nice job dudes. :bulb:

Really appreciate the work you put into it and sharing too. :slight_smile:

:evergreen_tree:

4 Likes

Legal in NY finally want to expand any info or tips on a flwer light for a 2x4 great thread man

2 Likes

So Iā€™m open to this idea but Iā€™m not exactly a handyman.

Has anyone built one of these successfully with minimal knowledge? And how much did you save exactly?

2 Likes

Thereā€™s at least half a dozen folks here than can advise you on a DIY build.

Now what do you have in mind?
(Ok, perhaps not a fair question)
How big a tent or floor space do you want to light & is it general use or dedicated? i.e. Flower needs the most power, seedlings the least.

Cheers
G

5 Likes

I talked to my friend at work today. He had a drill and screwdriver. And some electrical experience to boot. Sounds like thatā€™s about all you need.

Iā€™m looking to cover a 5x5 of smaller ish plants at first. So more spread than penetration. But more pen is never a bad thing :joy:. But yes mainly for flower. Iā€™ll probably grab some t5s for veg. They always sufficed to be honest.

Then if all goes well Iā€™ll probably add one every few months or so.

3 Likes

The light I built is 46" x 42" (20 x strips (44" long) which would do you for a 5 x 5. I like the large footprint of this light as it really improves penetration.

The ā€˜rule of thumbā€™ is 30 watts per square foot.
I found this to be high as Iā€™ve never been able to crank it over 66% full power but on the ā€˜plus sideā€™ the drivers run cool.

T5s are a good light, not as efficient as current LED design but not that far off either.
Anyway, have fun with the project, if you want to bounce any questions off me - feel free.

Cheers
G

5 Likes

Iā€™ve finally eliminated all t5ā€™s except a tiny one Iā€™m keeping for veggies. Small diy LEDs for the win

2 Likes

Iā€™m sure I will have questions when the time comes. I appreciate it man :sunglasses::pray:.

1 Like

Iā€™m copying/pasting my post from the other thread. I really should have posted here as soon as I put them together. I made 3 1/2 of these so far. I used aluminum fence pieces because i used to work there and got them free. But its a pain to get them square. They are light, but have no heat sinks. I didnā€™t have nearly enough fence to use them the long way as heat sinks. I used them in a room in winter so attached the drivers to the tops for heat, but used a cookie sheet between them and the strips for a lil protection. Now i want tents, so they might come off if it gets to hot in there.
I went with 2.5X4 frames. I still have enough to make 6 more lights if anyone in Michigan is interested
used them to hang last years wedding cake


and some multileafs I was abusing. They came around. It was my fault, not the lights.

7 Likes

Great job.
If it worksā€¦ it works! :+1: :wink:

If you run into a heat problem, you have the option of moving the drivers outside the grow area.
I ā€˜sacrificedā€™ a cheap extension cord (14 AWG) to do that.

Cheers
G

4 Likes

Wow thatā€™s a lot of work to get the frames square, but it looks like it was worth it! You did a fine job. May they bring you many happy returns!

:hammer_and_wrench:

I hope the strips last a long timeā€¦having no heatsinking surface to mate with may reduce their lifespans, but each to his own!

What do you think of the results in veg and flower? Got any harvest pics?

:peace_symbol:

4 Likes

That was my first real attempt at indoor growing, and it could have gone better in the beginning, and the end, but the middle went ok. lol. I learned a lot, and managed to make seeds which was the goal for that run. This winter will be more about production & pheno hunting. So Iā€™m not really in a position to say how good or bad they are, but a noob can grow under them :wink: . I think I had them set to low too, but I really have no idea because I was just guessing. Iā€™m gonna at least download a light measure app this time if i donā€™t get something better in time. I was worried about heating them up to much. I did get some more fence pieces now. So Iā€™ll probably have to sit around cutting little pieces to tape in there and at least attempt to get some heat sinkage. I have plenty of strips if I burn them up, but it would still be a wasteful shame to wreck them. Plus a pain to swap them out.
I did my multileaf(ŠœŠ½Š¾Š³Š¾Š»ŠøстŠŗŠ°) mutant run with them. The buds are ugly, but its a super fast variety so smaller buds anyway, then its seeded, and had troubles at the end. So not representative of the strain or the lights under normal conditions.


10 Likes