Or use zip ties to hold the lights to the frame.
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I think they are using a HLG-240H-C2100AB
HLG-240H-C-spec.pdf (778.9 KB)
It should be straight up debug practice with a meter from there. One word of advice: don’t power up with the any panels disconnected. Sometimes those safety circuits don’t work as planned - as some folks here can attest.
Cheers
G
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I’m still not sure how to use my multi meter to test things yet. I’ll go watch some YouTube videos and then try again.
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The outputs of the driver are floating (not referenced to ground) so grounding the frame doesn’t add any benefit IMO.
You can if you want but it’s like the double insulated power tools, not necessary.
I’ve got 4 big eye bolts on mine 
They were the ‘feet’ for the fixture to sit on (instead of the LED strips) until it was hoisted into the air.
One thing I did do was use “liquid electrical tape” to cover over the bare test points on the LED strips and any other potentially live bits…
Cheers
G
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That makes me feel better , phew , thanks again @Gpaw : ) will order that liquid tape at end of week : )
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My youngest introduced me to this stuff, I love it.
It’s also great for painting over any LED lights you might want ‘blacked out’.
Cheers
G
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have done the same, also if you have a homedepot around they stock the stuff in the electrical isle.
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Just want to leave this here 
Currently can order them through future electronics though only by the box “200 count”
Likely will be awhile before these parts suppliers order in some and start piecing them out, and ill be in line when that happens.
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Nice find @Mr.Sparkle 
That F stands for Flowering spec?
They’re around 6% more flux while using 12% less current (nominal) than the previous Gen 3 90cri at 2700K. If that’s corroborated by real world testing, you’re looking at the new king of the hill for strip builds.
Also, even the 2700K has more than enough blue to prevent excessive stretch, especially when run at high PPFD at canopy level. No need to buy other CCTs, even for veg! Although, there hasn’t been a need to go over 3000k for veg for a few years now…
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I presume the F is for Potassium Fluorosilicate as to why they named it.
https://www.bridgelux.com/products/f90
Even if not required and considered wasteful my intention or should i say desire is for higher efficiency high CRI neutral color temp light that has more relative power in the both the fore and aft side of the usable light spectrum plant wise with out current understanding.
And ive been running gen 2’s for 2.5 years now, im itching for an upgrade though these are currently only avalible by order in 200 count boxes from Future electronics at the moment.
Did send off a suggestion to digikey about how these would replace their stocking of gen 2 and gen 3’s though i dont expect it to go very far till say stock dwindles or more start requesting them but hey worth the effort.
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Of the course of a week , I pulled all this out of a builders skip , they were doin a large office block and all this was the temporary lighting as it was being built , haha now it’s all mine : )
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stuff to play with forsure
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I have a quick question @Mr.Sparkle , I notice most are 2875k fine for flower but for veg , is there a way of removing some of that yellow coating ie alcohol and qtip or can that film not be lightened or removed so as to change/play with the spectrum ?
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no thats typically the epoxy on the die itself and where the phosphor is aswell, usually only way to get that off is to break it but you typically break the die in the process.
Saying that because of the nature of white led’s being blue chips with phosphor coatings even at 2875k still should be plenty fine for veg just not your eyes color wise
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Nice score!!
That will keep you busy for a while…
Cheers
G
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Haha tell that to the wife @Gpaw , she’s cracking up lol they just don’t get it for some reason : )
They only sitting on living room floor , they not doin any harm : )
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i’ve got a 960 watt fixture i’m putting together and all the four drivers are B series with a wire ran for an external potentiometer. can i wire all four up to just one pot or do i need one per driver?
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As a general statement… yes, use a 25K linear pot.
Post the Make & part number and I’ll confirm
Cheers
G
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Or get two dual 25K potentiometers, one pot for each pair of drivers.
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My potentiometers have 5 prongs
Three in row and then two beneath them
I have it wired and is working using two from top row of three as normal but what’s the lower two for ??? Would like to use them if is something fancy @Gpaw : )
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