Try this link, DIY LED Strip Build Designs for Samsung H-Series, F-Series, Q-Series, and Bridgelux EB Gen.2 - LED Gardener
Edit: For some reason the link is slow to load, but it will.
3 Likes
Yeah that works thankyou
2 Likes
I personally wouldn’t use the Bridgelux Slim strips, just because they’re less robust, less surface area for heatsinking, and the same price as the normal 1" wide strips.
Instead, I’d recommend building 4x fixtures for your space. Each fixture runs 5x of these Bridgelux High Output 3000k strips run off a single HLG-240H-42A (or B or AB if you can find it and want to run an external potentiometer dimmer) and wired in parallel. If you want a little more horsepower, you can use a single MeanWell HLG-320H-42a to get nearly an extra 100w per fixture for only about $15, which you won’t need in a 4x4 quadrant, but seems worth it in case you upgrade to a larger space down the road, since two of those 320H fixtures will effectively flower a 5x5 space with ease when run at 100%.
You’ll mount them with thermal tape (cured 3 days before running the fixture) to individually cut pieces of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle aluminum from Grainger that you drill and screw together with two 20" end pieces to make the frame.
Run them between 12-18" from the tops of the plants, 2 fixtures per 4x4 half of your space, or 4 fixtures total for the 4x8. Hope that helps!
15 Likes
Still just lurking hard on this thread trying to build the courage to try making one of these things. Someday…
3 Likes
Im trying to get my head around the math. I think you are supposed to look at the voltage output and the current output of the driver vs the voltage and current input on the strips? With series you add up the voltage and paralell you add up the current… please correct me if im wrong 
the more i learn the safer i feel with it all.
1 Like
that is correct and to go one step further parallel-series arrays is the required voltage per string that is in series with the current being the total of all those strings together.
In general with driver options and what Voltage the strips run at you can just build straight parallel arrays which have redundancy and are a bit more “safer” just more wiring required as the downside.
4 Likes
@Mr.Sparkle, would you be able to clear this up for me please?
1 Like
Find the strip specs and driver specs and we can try work it out
2 Likes
Strips run 19.5 nominal, 20.6 max per if I remember correctly and the driver puts out 53-107v at 700mA. I’ll double check the strips. The math falls between 5 and 6 strips, I just don’t know which way I should fall on the difference.
Edit: confirmed the strip specs
1 Like
I think id go for 5 because it falls in the 53-107v. I dont know the exact consequences for running the strips over or under but i assume its similar to how a dimmer switch works if you are running 6 on not enough power?
2 Likes
@ChronicMcBudz ^^^ 5x20.6v max = 103v, max of the driver is 107v so you want to be under that.
so thats 5 strips max, but consider these strips can be overdriven by up to 180-200%
Other option and the route id probably go would be a xlg-75-h-ab driver and just run 4 strips at a lower voltage but higher output current in a 2x2 series parallel array and make it even, even running at that 75w range 4 strips would be at 135ish% range which is perfectly fine.
4 Likes
What’s the difference between the Ls and the Hs?
So the wife went and flipped the script on me again. We are now using a different Ikea Kallax than we were before. She wants it moved and it affords me the ability to reuse most of the parts from the current cab. This one gives me 4.27 sq ft (15in×41in) and should just barely fit the two hdx bins I currently use. Now I’m looking at an XLG-150-L-AB. Digikey is out at the moment, but there are a couple other sources out there.
Unless someone buys my current light off of me I’ll be using the 22" strips I have now, so I’m a little worried about a hot spot in the middle where they will overlap. Our friend might just buy the current cab off of me, which would be much easier for me.
H are lower voltage “27-56v” higher current xlg150 “4.17amps max”
they can power on a range of voltages and currents though you would likely be in the 3.75amp and under range for the 150’s, as you want to run at either max wattage for the xlg’s or slightly under
1 Like
Man I feel dumb lol. I was just looking at them on digikey. I thought the data said 2.8A max. I’m confused as all hell now lol.
The way I was looking at it, I could run 2 parallel to cut the Amps to 1.4 each, then 2.5 (assuming that means 2) strips in series on each parallel branch to accommodate the voltage.
I’m prolly way off base. I feel like I’m missing some fundamentals. I’ve been trying to plug the holes in my knowledge, but im still losing water like a sieve.
Edit: Just went and DLd the actual data sheet and I see where it says 4170mA
Edit-2: Does adjusting the 100K pot on an AB model adjust the amps or the voltage?
1 Like
The internal pot adjusts your max current output, your external 100k pot adjusts output between that max and like 10% output aka dimming, can the internal pot act as a dimmer yes just can be a bit more tricky and is easier to set once and use the external if dimming is required/desired
The 2.8a is only if your running at that max 54v, running less voltage than that you can run higher amperage.
Going off memory the 590mm and 560mm EBs run nominally at 700mA and 19.2-20v, so with a xlg-150-h you would do series strings of two strips which is around 39-40v and falls in that 27-54v range of the H series drivers, to fall under that 150w rating of that driver you could go two routes, run a total of 8 strips which is 4 chains and you turn up that internal IO screw till your pulling 150w from the wall which have the strips run around 125% nominal which is perfectly fine, or bump up to 10 strips and run right around 100% which is nominal , there is a bit of math there with the strips consuming around 13.65ish watts at nominal and I’m factoring in 92% driver efficiency at 150w from the wall.
You could go even 6 strips but say if one chain knocks out it may take the rest with them as the strips would go from 168% over driven to 250% which is more than there max rated output, plus your gonna have alot more added heat from the over driving.
So xlg-150-h , 8 regular or slim style will works, or 4 of the high output gen3s just run in parallel as they run at double the amperage aka two strips in one.
3 Likes
I’ve never adjusted the internal pot on my XLG-240-L-AB. I only recently got a cheap multimeter. I probably should check that. I think I still would need a killawatt or something to check draw from the wall.
If I read the data sheet correctly, the 560mm EB Gen 2s can also run at 1.4A and 20.5-21.6v. So, could I run two strips in series with two chains? A total of 4 strips.
But looking at your reasoning, my best bet would be the 5 chains of 2 strips, then adjust the internal pot. Gives me some wiggle room in case one of the series sets goes out, and I have plenty of strips. That leaves another 7 strips I can later use for a 100w setup.
Should I be worried that at the center of the chamber there will be about a 3-4" overlap between the strips? Like a hot spot?
That’s likely max, actual nominal is I believe 700ma and right around 19.5v for the 560mm eb2’s
And I typically gap my center now just for said hot spot reasonings so my lights are typically more adjusted to be towards the edge more so than the center but in my case we’re talking CM as in like 5-8cm more gap in the center just evens out the light a bit more.
3 Likes
I just finished a home lighting project using 4ft 3000k Gen 3 Thrive lights. XLG-25-AB driver worked well to power two of them in parallel. But, I have to say I’m a little disappointed the output isn’t a warmer color. I have CRI 80 3000k EB3 Slim I used for kitchen lighting that are much warmer color temp and significantly more appealing to the eye.
4 Likes
One last question, then I’ll leave you alone… for the 280mm ones and the same 150 H, I would need 10 parallel chains of 2, correct?
1 Like
Yeah just cause those are 350ma nominal but same voltage, so essentially you would need to double up the parallel chains, there is something to be said about less wiring and parts makes things easier though 
2 Likes