Cheap LED Strips : A Viable Alternative

Growroom Design
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#342

It is surprisingly tricky… I think even if you have the math right, the measurements are just too precise for a measuring tape and hand marking/drilling. The space between my strips was something like .93 inches which didn’t quite round to 15/16 of an inch, and after 10 spaces, the tiny bit of difference added up😒 I even used a ruler instead of a measuring tape.

I think even if you measure 3-4 times, and mark precisely, the drilling itself is imprecise. I marked mine with a fine point pen, drilled a pilot hole right over the dot with a tiny bit, and then drilled the real hole and sometimes it STILL wasn’t exactly where I wanted the hole. Not sure if the drill bits always walk some or what…

I think the good news is that we really don’t need it perfect. You can mix eye balling it and measuring and get it very close, and even if it’s a little off you can use a machine screw and nut, or drill out the hole more.

Overall though, I think strips are a great upgrade from COBs, and I might replace my other light after I finish a full grow with the strips. The lux meter i use should be a valid test of approximate intensity since COBs and strips use the same technology, and the strip light beats my COBs with a better spread and just higher values at lower wattages.

My tent was 81 degrees F pretty much all day, and now it’s 79 consistently with better lux values across the canopy. I’m running 20% less watts from the wall, which I believe is simply because strips allow you to spread the light so well and get the LEDs closer.

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#343

If I had a tape measure with MM it would have been easier… go figure a shop in canada doesnt have a single metric tape measure lol

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#344

I put my strips on the frame’s today, I messed the spacing up on the first one, then sat for an hour with my 48 inch drywall T-square working it out lol. Second one is bang on :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: took me about 40 to 45 minutes to make the 2 frames up, about the same to attach the strips, got to cut the wire and attach that next, connectors are on the drivers, probably another hour to finish the wiring on them both.

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#345

Newbie question:

Do the frames have to be metal?

:evergreen_tree:

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#346

From my understanding no but it’s safer that way. You can literally make one with a cheap baking tray.

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#347

No theres no reason they need to be metal. My strips and driver remain comfortable to touch (mind you my circulating fan blows directly on top. But even while testing it it didnt get uncomfortable. On the flip side, the L bracket metal is cheap,compact and light. No worrying about cramming 2x4s in a tent

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#348

(was wondering if it was a ground) :bulb: inflammability is a good thing.

thanks

:evergreen_tree:

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#349

Nope if you got electricity there in anyway you’ve done wrong lol. Should be fully self contained

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#350

I disagree. Using a wood frame is a bad idea. Use metal or if you must, ridged plastic, but that has its own issues.

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#351

Hey Gang,

Amazing thread, and lots of great info! I’m about to pull the trigger on a setup, and just want to ensure I’ve picked out the right stuff.

https://www.digikey.ca/short/zjtpd5

I’m looking for lighting for a 5x5 tent and I’ve picked out 50 3500k bridgelux and 2 drivers. Will this work out?

I’ve built a few setups before with solstrips, so this should be a quick build for me.

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#352

I think that may be a little excessive, you are doing 2 frames with 2 drivers, I would make your frames 54 inches long, allows manoeuvring in a tent without banging lots of things adjusting heights every time you want to water and get in there to do something. You have 22 inch strips so you will have 18 inches split 3 ways, on ends and middle of the frames and the tent, which is ok, gives room for moving things about, my flower bridgelux lights are only 16 strips each, and do very well, and yours will have 25 strips each, you might want to get a petentiometer for each one to dim them down, if they are too much, my veg lights are only 10 strips over a 22 by 44 inch frame and do very well, so if you are using for both veg and flower you probably will. The dimmers are only a couple of $ but requires soldering to the wires on the driver that are provided for it.

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#353

The driver I plan on getting has a built in potentiometer, one that I use for all my lights.

Just want to make sure I can use these ones with these strips, and wanted to go a bit overboard knowing I can turn it up a notch if I need to.

I’m hoping to pull the trigger this coming week, and should be a fun build.

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#354

Built in petentiometer, that’s neat. Not sure on compatability but looks like a good set up. What are you using for a frame?

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#355

If you mount the driver to the frame, that will ground the frame. It’s one reason I mount my drivers to the frames because it’s safer. If a wire comes loose and the frame isn’t grounded and you touch it… That could go badly.

This is demonstrated here using a multi meter:

The link should take you to 17 minutes 3 seconds where he talks about mounting the driver vs having it remote.

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#356

Typically just grab some aluminum channels and assemble it. Wont be the prettiest looking setup, but she will work!

Hope it’s compatible! lol

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#357

Thanks @MumenRyder :wave:

Safety :safety_vest: first & all that… :slightly_smiling_face:

:evergreen_tree:

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#358

Hey bud, I looked at the datasheet for the driver and strips and as far as I can tell you should be good to go👍

If you do 25 strips in parallel per driver the strips will run at about .5 amps each which is about 75% of max which is a good number to shoot for.

You’ll be hitting just over 30 watts per square foot which is plenty IMO.

The only issue I see is that digi key is overpriced on that driver. Check Mouser electronics, I’ve ordered from them with good luck and they will be about 100$ less total for both drivers.

Good luck with your build!

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#359

@cdnBuddy yeah digikey is pricey for the driver, plus the strips are on backorder, Also better to just run the strips at nominal amperage unlike @MumenRyder suggestion cause one less strips and two these things don’t get that hot, so its not like your overdriving them or anything.

Also with that driver you will only be pulling 260w when say built out with 19 strips “nominal current of 700ma each” 19.5v x 13.34a “max” not considering that most hlg drivers do go higher than listed, but your wasting a good 60w off that driver just due to ideal operating voltages.

Of the HLG range the 320H-42A, AB or whatever would be better suited as you can run a dual parallel array bringing up the utilization to about 300w say running two 11 strip parallel stings “22 strips” and they would be running just under nominal.

Just an idea anyways… also at a 5x5 there are some supposedly decent pre built options out there that could fit the bill, marshydro, spyderfarmer, ect ect just obvious some more $$$

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#360

As far as I understand it, the lower you run under the max current, the higher the efficiency from a lumens per watt perspective. Plus the strips are not expensive, and the more of them you have the more your light is spread and the closer you can have your light to the canopy while reducing overall wattage.

Also, I’m still not sure about running many of these in series. I’ve had advice from other knowledgeable light builders to not go beyond 3 in series for these strips because of the note on the datasheet. (We discussed this above, and while you could absolutely be correct, I’d rather err on the side of caution here).

I’m not an expert and I’d say you likely have more knowledge on wiring etc. than I do, but this is just my .02$ and the reasoning behind my suggestions.

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#361

Majority of this all goes over my head lol. But did another scan of the entire thread and hoping this will do me right.

XLG-200-L-AB x 4
60 560mm 24" Strips

While this means 4 individual lights, it may be easier for me to manage and move things around, or even down the road I can make one for veg if i wanted.

This setup will be used strictly for flowering as of now, and looks like the strips will be back in stock in a week or 2.

This would put my 5x5 tent at a 32w/sqft if that’s correct?

Thanks for the savings! Looks like the drivers are cheaper for any model I pick.

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