Yes looks like thay driver will take 220VAC as an input and put out a constant current of 700mA and is in the voltage range to run a single strip at around 13 Watts.
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You building a space bucket or something? Interested to hear the case for a single strip 
OK, cheers, got it. And I’m planning to do some micro growing. I got some 1x1x2 hanging cabinet and thinking to run there 4 of 28mm ones with https://www.digikey.lt/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/XLG-150-M-A/1866-XLG-150-M-A-ND/10222596
Or 5 of 28mm ones with https://www.digikey.lt/product-detail/en/mean-well-usa-inc/ELG-200-C1750/1866-1523-ND/7702978
Which option is better or are the better alternatives for such a tiny space?
@MumenRyder I’m thinking about building a few shelfs in my hallway and experimenting a bit with micro greens 
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Unless those measurements are in meters, four strips at max current is way too much light (roughly 110 W).
The XLG-150-M-A will, however, power five strips in series at max current (1.4A).
The other driver is over max current (1.75A) so not suitable for these strips.
Greetings from the Lone Star State and Covid-19 playgroup! I need a new light. Have you ever done a cost analysis for a 4X4 flower tent? I mentioned to @ReikoX that I needed a light but can only spend about $300. He indicated that this was “do able” Any help with tips and information would be greatly appreciated. I hope you and yours are well and taking care of yourselves. Be safe.
Blessings…
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It’s in feet. 
Am I counting it wrong?
4(BXEB-L0280Z) * 19.5 (Strips Voltage) * 0.35(Strips amperage) = 27.3w
I’m looking for 30 quality Watts for that tiny cabinet.
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See what I mean! That might as well be Mandarin Chinese. I don’t know what you’re talking about @Mattock. And I’m not very mechanically inclined. I’m easily intimidated when comes to electrical assemblies. Perhaps I should buy a plug and play version. Will cost more but at least I won’t fuck it up!
Blessings…
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@Mattock those drivers are extreme over kill, if looking for just a 1x1 space you’ll be wanting what i just built.
its using a XLG-50-A driver thats turned down to 700ma which makes it right around 27w total at the strips, honestly you could get away with a XLG-25 but the 50 is only $2-3 more, same size, and allows you to overdrive if you desire.
This is gonna be for a 14"x14ish" space which is a 1/3rd bigger than a 1sqft space.
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That’s awesome. It would fit perfectly in my minifridge
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Thanks, man!
You are lifesaver!
Just a quick question, how do you turn it down? Just get a dimmable version?
And could XLG-50 run 5 strips?
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You could do with half my setup and be fine for about 250 in materials. 16 4 ft eb strips and 2 xlg240 l a b drivers. Be in the 400w range, I’m running double that and the math worked out to 839w. I’ve learned that was extreme overkill for a 4x4. The upside is I can signal the space station if I get the urge lol
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I have this…
Can I repurpose it to use 2ft EB Gen2 or 3? How many?
Thinking about building a gaggle of strips to surround my cmh.
The space…currently 2 315cmh and cob expansion.
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All depends on what size strips you want to use.
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I was thinking 560mm length
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Wow @Daytripr69. That’s reasonable and you make it sound easy. I’m not a total idiot. I can use a tape measure and pop rivet gun. It’s the electrical that usually turns my brain to jelly! I can follow instructions and I’ve got a lot of guidance here so I think I’m gonna do it. With your help! Where can I look up those parts for pricing etc.? I’ll start getting the components together and hit you back before I pull the trigger. Thanks my friend.
Blessings…
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Series wired. Easy as hell. Start at one end of the panel and run the + from the driver to the + on the first strip. Then go from the - in the first strip to the + of the second. Keep going like that till you get to the end and the last - will go to the - lead of the driver. That 250 is strips and drivers only. My order for 32 strips and 4 drivers was right at $500 USD. I probably spent 50 more on quick connects for the panel end of the leads going to the panels since I’m running remote drivers, the 100k potentiometers, L wall bracket for drop ceilings, machine screws and washers for the frame and strips. You’ll want nylon washers on the strips and ratchet hangers. I built and wired both panels and driver board in about 3.5 hours. I soldered all the connections except for the strips. Everyone says use solid core wire but stranded is fine just needs to be twisted tightly. I put liquid electrical tape over the solder spots on the end of the strips because I’m a dumb ass and would probably grab them adjusting the light and shock the shit it off myself lol
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Yeah @Shadey. That is similar to my configuration except I have a “blurple” in the center. Planning to upgrade soon. Very cool. Those SILs will get the job done!
Blessings…
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Well, that’s something to look forward to. Thanks again. Can you suggest the suppliers for these components?
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5 no, but 6 it can reason begin is the voltage the xlg-50 puts out doesn’t allow us to run them all in series so you have to build the array in a a parallel series type configuration and we have the current to cover doing so.
So like mine its built in a 2S2P configuration meaning i have 2 strips running in series, but two of those strings running in parallel, so with the strips being 19.5v and 350ma, doing two in series bumps that up to 39v and 350ma, but two of those strings in parallel goes to 39v and 700ma.
So a third string “6 strips total” would just make it 39v at 1050ma if your running at nominal which is still within the performance region of that driver, actually its about 10watts shy of running it max so you would be able to comfortable overdrive those 6 strips a bit aswell.
As for dimming, both the A and AB series can do it in effect, the AB series has some extra leads to hook up a potentiometer/ PWM source / or reference voltage to allow you to dim in with those external sources, but both the AB and the A have an internal Io “current” poteniometer that allows you to set the output current with. so you can effectively dim it that way, downside is its located on the bottom of the driver so depending on how you mount it you may have to un mount the driver each time to adjust it.
Like mine above im only using the A series driver so i dont have an external poteniometer unlike my other cabinet lights, but if you look at the face picture above there is a hole drilled above middle of the plate beside the one strip, thats my access hole so i dont have to unmount my driver to dim it.
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