if looking for say shop retrofits, easier to find those through say your commercial electrical suppliers or even say some Reno stores, but from what ive seen they are getting there price wise in that most would probably pay for the initial cost difference through savings in electricity after a yeah and half to two, just depends on initial cost and how much they get used in a day, but halving your electricity usage from floros is worthwhile imo
also the standard bridgelux eb sizing and light outputs were very obviously designed for floro tube replacement purposes just its not plug and play but more for light fixture designs or replacement packages done externally
also thats just where going to newer style fixtures that can be easily or cheaply replaced may be a benefit vs running the floro style fixtures, its just we were limited before to a certain form factor, with leds thats not necessarily the case anymore.
He wants to avoid changing fixtures so they are easier to take out lol. The landlords a bit of a dick and we don’t want to do him any favors if we relocate
For all those that have built LED lights and have switched from another light. Did you notice any difference in regards to EC levels you hit and in specific any additional requirements for Ca/Mg?
It ‘sort of’ confirmed the conversion numbers (flux to photons) I’ve been playing with… (Well, identified the range the conversion factor resides in is more accurate).
The strips can be bought individually from Digikey in 22 and 44 inches there may be more sizes I am not aware of. These are not horticultural but work extremely well.
I’m building a light using info gleaned from this thread, and I have a question.
I want to run 20 of the 580mm Gen 2 strips. If 20 strips x 19.5 volts per = 390, I think I’m gonna need an HLG-480H, but there’s an HLG-480H-36A, -42A, -48A, -54A, and a -36B, -42B, -48B, -54B. What do the numbers at the end of the driver name mean, and how do I know which is the right one for my config? I know it’s important, but not why.
A 15O watt driver will run 10 strips slightly under powered so you would only need a 300 watt driver. The different numbers are for amps and volts and wiring configurations either parallel or the other one, sorry just got up and no coffee yet, brain is not engaged fully
@Guitarzan, The 480 on the driver represents 480 watts. You have calculated the wattage wrong.
I do not know what the wattage of those strips are but you have multiplied the number of strips by the voltage.
PS: If the wattage happens to also be 20 then all good
Yeah, sorting out the part numbers can be a little daunting.
e.g. HLG-480H-36A that’s a 480 watt driver that outputs 36 volts and the “A” indicates that is has and adjustable voltage and current pots.
The ‘2 foot’ Gen 2’s (560mm) are 13.6 watts and 19.5 volts. Lets assume parallel wiring, so that’s 270 watts at 19.5 volts. Looking at the HLG series, there is a 240 watt and a 320 watt model. I’d go with the HLG-320 myself.
Now for the voltage selection, 2 options, 20 and 24 volt models. Under certain conditions the forward voltage can be 22 volts and you have to factor in copper losses between the driver and the LED strips (I went with the 24 volt) but, with an “A” series you can max the voltage to 22 volts so you can go either way. Depends on your setup etc.
I only check water PH, don’t really need to know being no till soil what the EC is 
