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Give me a break.
I know this question has been asked more than enough.
I think I’ve got it. I’ll post up plans in a few for double checking.
I’m getting too old for this. HaHa
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BXEB-L0560Z-27G2000-C-C3? or BXEB-L0560Z-57G2000-C-C3? (typo right?)
Just to be clear, you have a flower area with 20 sq ft that you want to illuminate with 2x 2’x4’ lights. How many watts /sq ft are you after? (40?)
The specs for the HLG-320 drivers recommend 1 driver per 16 Amp breaker (because of potential in-rush current)… (I’m running 2 …thermal breakers aren’t as twitchy as magnetic). So your sub-panel is probably OK - but check your breaker type.
In order to drive 60 strips at full power you are going to need 3 of those drivers.
For heat, you can have the drivers external to the grow area (I did that). That moves about 10% of the heat out of the grow area.
Assuming you want to wire the strips up in parallel, you will want to look at HLG-320H-20. I would recommend an “A” or “AB” as you can get 22 volts out of it instead of 20. Personally I’d go “AB” if you can find one.
For ease of reference, I’ll attach the specs for the strips and driver
HLG-320H-SPEC.PDF (884.1 KB)
DS131 Bridgelux EB Series Gen2 Data Sheet 20171020 Rev A.pdf (940.9 KB)
The issue I see is configuring the 60 strips and 3 drivers into 2 lights. It can be done but the wiring is slightly more complex.
If Mr Sparkle or Nube say anything different… Listen to them because I do! 
Maybe better to continue through PM so not to clutter up the thread…
Cheers
G
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This, exactly this. I swapped from hps mid flower and they hated the 840w I put to them. They hated it at 50%. Next grow started the clones under the led at 50% and raised it a little every day until I was giving them 100%. They absolutely love it with no burning or bleaching at 12" above canopy
last pic is of the stem after 2 weeks of veg from spindly clone
Edit: I’m running 52.4 w/sqft at full power
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Holy crap…That’s a lota lettuce!! Pretty awesome Dude
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They will be getting a heavy defol this weekend. Been slacking on the trimming
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Want to post a big THANK YOU
@Gpaw for helping get the cobwebs out of me OLD noodle.
He saved my butt from having to climb back up in the HOT, tiny attic again.
Thanks Guys,
Grace and Peace
Iggy
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How is everyone lining up their holes? Building a 48"x 44" with 36 22" strips.
I have 72 holes I need to drill and rivet…seems like a big task with 72 points of messing up lol.
I got my aluminum angles all cut up and going to box them up so the vertical part of the L is on the outside on all sides. Going to put 2 rivets on each corner to prevent twisting. Then marking each 48" piece of angle and sliding up a strip to those markings and using binder clips to keep it in place and then drilling with the strip in place. Then sliding up to the next mark.
Just wondering if there was an easier way. I have a tendency to over complicate things.
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instead of using a strip can make a drill template out of harder material, also having bit larger holes that allow some inaccuracy, and center punching them so your drill bit doesn’t wander
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I drilled and tapped mine free hand 
I started by finding center of the strip, drill and tap (I used 4-40). drop a screw in, add a strip and scribe the slots on each end. Drill and tap those.
Then rinse and repeat…
I use a caliper for scribing offsets from the edge. Center punch and drill. If you are careful. you can hold +/- 0.020" geometric tolerancing.
Cheers
G
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Any good cleaner for aluminum after? I wanna be sure to clean them free of aluminum dust left over from drilling.
I wanna be riveting these at the ends similar to how toasty and sparkles did. What size holes did u drill and what size rivets?
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I went with 1/8" pop rivets with backing washers. I drilled one set of holes (end rails) larger (9/64") just so I had a little ‘play’ to get them all aligned at the same time.
Get the frame all sorted out and assembled before you mount and wire the strips. I used 4x 3/8" eye bolts (one near each corner) to act as ‘feet’ to protect the strips.
I was using a little oil while tapping, it cleaned up OK just with a paper towel. I did a deep clean after I finished making a mess 
Take your time and have fun!
Cheers
G
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Good idea with the washers
Did u use aluminum washers or is electrolysis not an issue?
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Why don’t you save yourself the headache of drilling all the holes and just use the thermal tape, where the strip makes contact with the frame, and zip ties?
I can post a picture of my light if that helps. Correction, I did drill one hole at each end initially. These are 22” strips.
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Doesnt the zip ties block some of the light?
My worry would be the lights making the zip ties brittle over time and them failing. Also the thermal tape giving way over time
It might block one or two diodes, but I didn’t consider that an issue. I just added the zip ties on the perpendicular aluminum beams, beams inside the two outer zip ties, only two weeks ago as the thermal tape was pulling from the light strips and causing the lights to sag. Reading this thread someone mentioned letting the tape cure 72 hours before running lights. I did not do that. So I zip tied the lights and haven’t noticed any depreciable effect on the plants.
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I have a bunch of these pan head self tapping zinc plated sheet metal screws. Think this would work? Its small enough diameter where it wouldnt chew out the PCB
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Pre drilling your holes much safer. Those sheet metal screws can get sloppy in the bit and will do serious damage. Scribe and center punch as @Gpaw stated,
Take Your time , Devils in the details.
Peace
You could use those to mount the strips, recommend using nylon washers to avoid damage to the PCB.
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I used a similar screw, tech screws they use for screwing metal drywall stud together. I pre drilled my holes slightly smaller and just put them in with a screwdriver gently, I didn’t use the nylon washers.
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I like this…my strips are the 44’s…finally unboxed them…had em since June…
Anyway…after the hard frame (al) those light drywall angles going crossways will take away the sag.
I’m doing 2 x 4 twice… should be built by Sat…
Found out the boards are nylonish…with nothing to short out on the bottom side
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