Do any of you guys know if it matters much to have similar length of wires for any aspect of the build?
I know certain gauges have their respective length limits, but if you have one parallel wire half as long as another is that going to create issues for instance?
unless really really small gauge it doesn’t matter that much for us will there be differences yes though were talking sub Ohm level in most cases, why it matters a little more on the strips is that conductor size on the pcb is only so big and i’ll happen to guess a lot less cross sectionally wise by a few multiplications worth than say 18awg wire
Good Idea, Still haven’t found correct size t-nuts.
This extrusion is from one of the first Legacy Woodworking Router CNCs, pretty ancient.
This is only one of the functions of the sheath. It also protects the cable if you jam something against it. Less chance of piercing it. Also the sheath and the connector all tighten up into a solid mass and grip the sheath. This stops any force on the connections when you move the cable and lights around. Without it the connections will take load and a good chance they will start to come loose and could cause other issues like high resistance joints which in turn creates heat. Both dangerous and inefficient. If you are the only one using it and are super careful then it wont really matter.
This is true. I noticed the other day on my Solstrips that if I flicked the IP68 connector it would cause my lights to flicker. I only noticed because I was moving the lights and saw a flicker and thought WTF so I investigated and narrowed it down to the 3 pin connector. Those things were put on poorly by them.
The wire was warm too. But it was resting on the frame so I didnt think anything of it. But maybe this is whats causing it.
My build progress so far…Drilled with 1/8" bit but holes were too small so I widened with 5/32" bit.
Dry fitted the light with the rivets (pictured above) since I messed up on other builds and had to undo everything. Everything looked good.
Or so I thought…i got these 1/8" wide with 1/8" grip rivets. On some holes there is so rough bits I couldn’t smooth out and on those holes the grip depth is greater than 1/8" and the rivets dont fully grip and can be pushed out with my fingers with enough force. Off to the store for some 3/16" grip rivets.
Im hoping the 5/32" holes arent too wide for the 1/8" wide rivets. I cant see how they would be seeing as the 1/8" holes I couldnt even get the rivet in and this is only 1/32" larger
Like they said no job is complete without 3 stops to home depot. Will be updating this post as i progress
Well apparently they only have 1/8" x 1/4" grip in steel so i filed down some of the raised pieces and got it good enough. I cant push any through so I doubt gravity will. Not ideal but if any fall ill use zip ties.
Drill is charging. Will tap the holes for the other panel now.
About 2 hrs into this panel. The other one should go smoother given what i learned.
Initial thoughts are I dont like the sag. Cant believe I was thinking of 44" ones. Lol
Fixed some mounting rails for the ballasts. Finished out the frame. Not perfect and its bothering me…but close enough. Even though i tapped the aluminum before drilling the drill bit still moved slightly in some areas which brings my holes in more which makes it so theres less room to fit so the strips being pliable and the aluminum not so much the strips arc as you can see in some of the pictures. Also some rivets for the strips are failing so I have zip ties securing. And i accidentally grabbed a wider drill bit for one of holes for those channel shapes and my screw didnt catch so had to use a zip tie there.
I also set some eyebolts near the center where the light will be heaviest
My OCD is going haywire
Got an hour to spend tonight on my light. Added some liquid electrical tape to the solder on connectors and wired my bridges for my series connections. All that is left is it finish wiring and mount the ballasts.
Probably another 2hrs.
You forgot to add “because of something you screwed up, and or got the wrong fasteners.”
I guess…my need to be precise always gets me in trouble. Im just glad all the holes came out in all the right places.
Yeah if you grab the connectors firmly they should not feel any warmer than grabbing the cable (not close to the connector). If the connector is warmer then it means it has resistance which is a sign of a bad connection. If you dont like the sag you can add another brace. I think those strips have additional holes towards the centre.
I think my biggest problem with the sag is the holes for some of the strips is too close so its pushing outward.
Like if i pull the two angles apart sorta it pushes out. Me and my precision again. Imma have to get the steel rivets in some spots or grab some zip ties. Def dont wanna do zip ties. Was going for a clean look.
Someone posted their build and it was like an MRI machine it was so curved. Mine are way less curved than that so im sure im fine.
Are you not using any aluminum backing on any of the strips?
Naw. In hindsight I should have just bought a 4x4 sheet of aluminum and had a machine shop CNC cut all the holes and saved myself hours and a few dozens curse words
I’m seriously considering it, I can draw it on the computer and have someone with better tools or I can try and do it precision myself with the cheap tools I have. If you want clean, that is. Cheap, effective you can do yourself for sure.
Anyone have tips on applying the liquid electrical tape? The brush is huge
scrape of the excess in the jar and dab with an edge, that or use the end of a marker or something
I just stick with HPS. Remote the damn ballast and cool the grow. No degree in electrical engineering needed. No denying the success with strips either though.
Has anyone ordered from *Component Distributors Inc.?
Looks like they are one of the cheapest sellers according to octopart for XLGs…
Also, if anyone is curious and I did the math right, apparently for the AB variants (L or H is what I’m weighing for 10 gen 3 strips; other order got canceled) the 200w series appears to give most watts per dollar?
From reading earlier, the two options I’m weighing consist of basically 2 strip in series x5 (parallel) safer voltage(39v) route for the H variant…
Or, all 10 in series, possibly more even current spread, possibly more longevity, no current run away?, cleaner wiring, but higher voltage/more dangerous (190v 
) for the L variant.?
Hmm 
if looking at 200watter go with the 240’s as they are only a couple dollars more and go higher amperage “H series”
I’ve used https://www.onlinecomponents.com/en/ - they have been great, I can’t even get Online Distributors Inc. site to load so idk.
Meant to say Component Distributors, my bad
@Mr.Sparkle thx for the H series amp tip, it doesn’t look like component distributors has any 240s in stock so another seller would be $41 vs $31 for the 200s which is only a few buck but 25% more and I’m getting three so I basically could get four 200s for the price of three 240s…
Would you still go H for the 200 over the L?
