I used a toothpick that I dipped in the liquid, that way you can manage the amount applied. Plus it is a lot cleaner and cleaner looking!
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Indeed messy.
I dipped a toothpick, deep enough to give me a single droplet onto each solder point.
@Tejas taught me.
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Great minds think alike!
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I was gonna use a tiny paint brush. But if yall using toothpicks then maybe even thats too much.
Hows the off gasing? I cant exactly do this outside on the account of it being 30F outside and I would look strange carrying this huge light outside
Do it inside, no off-gassing that I noticed. It dries fairly quickly, plus it is a small amount being applied.
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Yeah i would, as others have discussed in this thread going higher amperage lower voltage at least complies with laws in some places and also parallel arrays have better survive-ability if say a string had an issue.
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I used a small paint brush
Boooom. just wrapped up my v2 array: 42"x96" 1084w draw, 24 Bridgelux EB2s on 3x Meanwell 240 XLGs, and 10 EB3s on a single Meanwell 320 HLG driver, 100k Linear Pots over all around, mounted to 1.5" channel ALL due to this thread! Many thanks to @Mr.Sparkle and the many inspirational minds keeping this thread and energy-efficient grows alive !! 
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@TerpSneeze WOW NOW THAT IS A LIGHT 
is all I can say
over the top thanks for a look at your light
so now I need one of those 
all the best and be safe
Dequilo
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Anyone think these might be ok to connect all the parallel wires together (2, +&-)?
Quluxe 10 Pcs Lever Wire Nut 8 Conductor Combination Compact Wire Fast Connection Terminal PCT-218, Suitable for Multiple Types of Wires https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08MXGX784/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_8ZacGbZVKB3AC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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About to build a small light like the one @TrevorLahey recommended near the beginning, @ 10 2 foot gen 2s and a xlg 150. I just wanted to verify that it is safe to use a wood frame before I actually do this haha.
Those are what I use on my lights. 
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You can use wood as a frame. What type and dimension of wood are you thinking?
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Was just gonna table saw a 2 by 4 into a 2 by 2 then cut it up into thinner peices to use to support the edges and in the center than was going to put thermal tape where it meets the wood. Open to suggestions have a full work shop here. Just I suck at working with metal and love wood.
That sounds like a workable plan. The only thing I would caution is wood may have the tendency to warp in a high(er) humidity environment. If you do plan to use a ripped 2x4 I would set them out for a couple of days to acclimate the cut surfaces to your environment, then treat them with boiled linseed oil or spar varnish once your frame is assembled. If you have a planer, even better to get all sides uniform. I hope I haven’t complicated your project too much. 
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Wow… Man I never even thought of that. How did I overthink that. Do you think hardwood would flex less? I got same finished sugar maple and red oak. Or I could maybe run diagonal supports to reduce flex.
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Had to make a new awl while putting these new lights together.
Birdseye Maple and a sail makers needle with boiled linseed finish
Just depends on how stable your wood is for the environment.
The maple and oak might be a better option over the 2x4 Pine?
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I’m not sure if it’s pine or spruce it’s been in my basement for a few weeks though and that’s wear my grow room is.
The only thing that has any weight is the driver, that is if you plan to mount the driver on the frame. 2x2 will be a robust frame for what you planning to do, either pine or spruce.
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Even If they 2x4 are new, and strait, after you rip them they may twist or bend down the road.
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