Hmm, does anyone know why my pot seems to dim backwards? (Clockwise decreases; counter increases)
I’ve tried switching the wires but it doesn’t change it.
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Just to check you have it hooked up right.
IME it’s 90% operator/installer error. Just have to go over everything ad-nauseam. Or that’s how my electronics projects go anyways.
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Hah, that’s it, I chose the wrong terminals, thanks.
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That was my guess, but a picture is worth a thousand words, a video is worth a billion.
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For any of you guys that connect a ground wire to your frame, where do you connect it on the other end?
Bolt it to the driver, terminal where driver ground meets AC ground, other?
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Correct.
Ring or spade terminal to driver’s mounting screw. So the terminal is clamped to the chassis.
Cheers
G
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Just ordered my strips n driver yesterday! XLG-240-L-AB and 17 strips for a 40"x 24" space. As I start getting everything in and going I’ll be starting up a build thread.
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An oil cooler or and intercooler 
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I second, maybe a heat pipe?
At first inspection I thought you were just trying to drill through all your parts at once. But that looks like extrusion isn’t it?
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An additional heat sink with dissipation fins. 
Not that cool lol
The heat sinks haven’t gotten that hot from my short experience with them running near nominal, more just warm than anything (altho I will admit I haven’t run them long at all {1hr?})…
Hint, it’s more about aesthetics…
Will show soon
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cable routing, just be deburr them as can cut the wire slightly over time through vibration.
also why alot dont run heatsinks as they just dont have the heat in them at nominal
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You got it… yeah I have debuted as much as I can, not perfect thug I think it will be ok, I may add some heat shrink wrap to those areas…
I agree about the heatsinks not being necessary and I would prob would just get some more cheaper aluminum angle next time. If I ever decide to use these in another setup tho it might be nice to have in case I want to turn them up, at which point I would have to monitor those temps around the cabling…
Kind of nice to have and not need then to need and not have if trying to reuse I guess.
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You could also take a bit of JB weld and tack the wires down to the extrusion. That will help vibration but not eliminate it.
Copper work hardens, so vibrations in wires is just… ugh. Especially the little solid cores. One reason I hate working on automotive electrical.
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Hmm, I’m just not sure exactly where these vibrations are going to be coming from anyway?
A fan blowing air whether circulation or exhaust can cause movement and or vibrations if you want to get specific …
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You have yours mounted at the top or is it still hanging a tiny bit? If mounted do you think that is still a concern?
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I’m looking to build a cheap set up for all my vegetable starts this year as my tents are gonna be full, would anyone happen to have a suggestion as too how many watts per square foot of the bridgelux gen 2 strips and the best kalvin for veggie starts thanks in advance you all have been a wealth of information to me every time I’ve asked and that is greatly appreciated.
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10w/sqft of Bridgelux Gen 2 3500k strips for seedlings and young plants. Overbuild it to 15w/sqft but dim down at first. You don’t need much, tho. And the plants can literally get right up to the diodes, but don’t quite let them touch. They’ll leave little white burn spots if they touch leaves.
I mounted my drivers before starting this most recent preservation F2 run. Turned out OK:
Shouldn’t need a ground wire doing it that way.
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