Dwc bubble trouble

I found this post from @Pedro_Bann

Jaybeezy’s garden

From the leafs maybe lacking calcium ?

So is the botinacare I got no good for dwc ?

Oh man, I always hate to be the god of thunder raining on parades here but… and you are not going to like this… I think I see two things there.

One, the larger more even splotches look nutrient related to me, though I’m not gonna claim to be able to nail what from the pics. Someone will pick that up I’m sure, you’ll balance it, fine.

But the other thing I see are the numerous clusters of very small dots, and that looks like the heartbreaker if I’m right. Cuz that looks like mite sign to me. I’d be checking the underside of those leaves REALLY closely there, with magnification if possible. Those dots look like the borg to me. :unamused:

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Nutes dont turn roots brown. Sick roots turn brown. Sometimes just from drying out, but also from bacterial growth - root rot.

Are they slimy? Do the brown parts pull off easy?

Your nutes have organic stuff in them - guano, etc. Im not talking like organic health food. I mean coming from some plant or animal source. Anything like that is the food of the gods as far as bacteria are concerned. They just love that crap.

They love it even more when the water temps get above about 70F, and will grow like crazy. In my experience, once it gets established, that crap is really really really hard to kill.

Ive tried everything from three different types of beneficial bacteria (they all made things worse) to hi doses of chlorine (worked the best) to toxic levels of copper (dangerous). All I ever managed to do was hurt the roots even more while the root rot mostly just laughed at me.

What worked was changing over to pure salt based nutes (Jacks 321 Hydro), AND making 100% sure zero light gets into the rez and all tubing, fittings, etc, AND keeping water temps below 70 F at all times.

My rez, pumps, tubing, pipes, nozzles etc now all stay perfectly clean. Well, other than the occasional cat hair :slight_smile:

As a bonus, PH control is now almost effortless. Before I was constantly fighting large PH swings due to the bacterial action.

I do use a low dose of chlorine (pool shock) when I refill my rez - about 2 PPM max, but I dont bother to add any more until the next re-fill. That takes about a week for me. I do that because I use tap water and my water comes from a well. I live in the Pacific Northwest where it rains all the time. I am in a literal rain forest and mold and bacteria are everywhere and in everything.

As long as you dont have toooo much brown, you might try trimming back the brown parts as much as you can. It will stunt the plants growth for a week or so, but they will recover - depending on how much you trim off.

If the plants can be placed in temporary containers, then dump the rez and buckets and clean them and the pipes, pumps, air stones, and all tubing, fittings, etc with a strong bleach solution and start over with different nutes. You will need to run sterile or try one of the beneficial bacteria if you want (I would NOT). You are probably going to need a minimum of 6 to 8 PPM of chlorine to keep it from getting re-established.

I wish you the best of luck.

Oh - when you have root rot, there is no point in trying to diagnose nute deficiencies. Root rot causes all the same symptoms in one way or another. Bugs are a different story.

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I run a mix of organics with my gh nutes. I live in new England too, Connecticut. We close?
Organics will stain your roots that doesn’t mean there rotting . If you get root rot you would know , thats not root rot.
The spots could be bugs , or probably PH problems . Is your ph dialed in , pH is important in dwc? Dwc likes cal/ mag as suggested.
You want allot less water in your bucketz than you have. You want a really nice air gap.
Your going to want to use SMALL aquire heaters soon to and set the very low 55-60 if your in a garage or basement. If your on concrete put wood in between the floor and bucket. Frozen roots will stop growth.

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I ran dwc a long time ,jest getting set back up after 12 yr vacation. Water temps are critical. In my studies i learned marijuana has a temp.range. -
Air: 71° , the most perfect temp. For weed + or - 23 ° … from 71° going up or down the scale slows the growth of your plant to the point of no return some where round 94° your plant isnt growing anymore , starts dieing and gets worse as temps soar.
Water: 65° perfect temp . I forget the plu minus range but you got the idea
If it gets warm it kills your plants.
Ive ran and am running some organics in my water . .thats the tricky part .you know how at the beach,lake river ,where the water in some spots has a foamy something floating— organics. Same in the bucket. Be careful what you put in there, some stuff( i think ive tried every thing) throws the ph off bad, so you have to add something to counter it, add to much, your fucked now you got to add to counter that. Most ph additives keep on moving up or down the scale. So find something that doesnt need additives for 8-9 years i grew dwc.
1st best lesson i learned is fish tank water/pondwater - cant go wrong here. Went from tap water sitting 24 hrs to fish water sitting two week min.and only pulled 1/2 half of tank wster every 2 wks. I could see the diff. It made. Bigger greener thicker. Growing faster, did affect ph., Made it 7.0 Weed got stronger stickier.Bat guano foams up,sticks to the sides of buckets and uppper roots, makes a hella mess. But worth it. Remember in growing, less is more. I had 8 45 gal totes i grew in, lets say 300 gallons. I only put a big hanful in. Could tell the diff. Stonger , stickier thicker tighter buds. ,Improved taste. Natural honey,( guano and honey only during flower ifid, personal choice, only vegging for two weeks, most of growth happened flowering.) Half a honey bear( the plastic winnie po0h bear container) in 300 gallons . You can break down to table spoons / gal. If you want to. Made a white slime all over the roots, freaked me out at first, but i held on to my experiment and it pAid. Fatter, stronger, stickier CANDY TASTING QUARTER POUND KOLAS . Now im trying mollases to see, ive heard good bout mollasess…
.
. As far as nutes go. -
ENVY A
ENVY B
I NEVER FLUSHED IT( FINE TUNED) THERE IS A PERFECT WAY TO KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE NUTES OR LESS NUTES… WATCH THE LEAF TIPS.
If they’re green, feed more, if theyre yellowing burning up, feed less you want the tips (1/8 ") (ONLY) to yellow…
I cant praise envy a envy b enough, best shit i ever seen( i tried them ALL)( LATE 90S- MID 2000S). PLANTS FUCKING BLOW UP.
IT was GOOD to be the King! Im coming back.
Thats most of my recipee. Enough to make you a king too


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Those leaves look to me like thrips damage, you should take one and check it with a scope … :sunglasses:

image

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I have old eyes but it looks like the leaf spot we have here this year outside

I agree that its not a full on ‘end of the world’ case of root rot, but I disagree about organic based nutes staining roots.

If that were the case, then everyone growing in soil would have brown roots - and they dont. When I was using FoxFarm soil and nutes with organics in them - Mega Crop - I had pure white roots. When I changed to hydro - still using Mega Crop - I had pure white roots - except when they were sick. Ive seen plenty of pics of people growing in organic soil with organic teas and still have pure white roots.

I stick to the diagnosis thats its bacterial growth or some other health issue that makes them turn brown.

Edit: sorry bro. I think Im in what my wife calls my a$$hole-know-it-all-nit-picky mode and that may have come across the wrong way. Not wanting to start an argument. There are at least 10 different opinions on what is “best” for every aspect of growing our plants. If it works for you, then its good :slight_smile:

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I think your comments about the ideal temps for our plants are interesting. I agree on the water temps, but very few can keep it that low without chillers. You are in the minority as far as your growing temp recommendations. Most seem to like hi 70’s to low 80’s F.

I suspect if you didnt keep your water temps that low you would be singing a different story about that pond/fish water! Talk about loaded with bacteria from the get go! That would explode at higher temps. :slight_smile:

Plants look good, so its obviously working for you :slight_smile:

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Could be, but this is an indoor growing, what kind of disease is that? :sunglasses:

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its a fungal disease of plants, I have memory issues and sometimes say things wrong so I suggest you goggle it online . It can be different color patches by i think diff sub species of these fungi. I can get you started https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/plant-problems/disease/plant-leaf-spots.htm. that was just first link popped up better out there, like universities . Anyway if I remember tomorrow I will take pics there are yellow spots dark almost black this coppery red brown. It found its way into the house. If its thrips you should be able to see them on the back of the leaves, I can yet lol. @George1961.

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and there on all different plants and trees outside all over

I recently had a problem with light green leaves and purpling stems was a mag def. Get the organics out! I tried it in dwc nightmare. Go with gh or Jack’s

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here is a outa focus pic(sorry) of a leaf there also is a pic of the back oif that very leaf, county ext. has already said its leaf spot…

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its all over here, also saw pm on the grass, was real hot all summer but humidity was way up, now its cooling down fast.

I need a new camera lol it used to take nice pics.

it got in the house, caused probs used stuff on it most of you would not like, one copper treatment, slowed it but didnt stop it. so then I used H2o2 in my water, that rocked it abit, I then added monterey complete disease to the mix. I do 2 IPM 's a month all the time, took me a week but the leaves are clear now. I also had tyo pick some leafs as they were baddy bad.

Hey guy the problem di solution man is simple.
Read own manual of jorge cervantes.
Marijuana!!!
Non i dont know man, only water!!!

That’s def a good point you made Arriba|nullxnull Here’s really good info about that matter … :sunglasses:

My temps have been running high this new setup so far, I’m getting it undercontroll but I took some major losses cause of the heat. Lost 5 plants, and slowed the growth of the survivors to a halt almost. Started dwc again in the middle of the heat of the summer and wasn’t really prepared well. Making close to the last fix now. Opening up from a 3’ x 4’ closet to a 12’ x 12’ shed. 2 400w lights in a 3x4 is a fn oven. Now I should be able to add a 3rd light and many more plants. 3 fart fans in closet now, 1 blowing on lights and 2 exhausting out heat and heat is still high. Closet is in a insulated 12x12 with window a/c …
.
I do use beneficial bacteria and H202. to help out. Can’t wait to get them temps down.
I forget where, but in the O.G. 1.0 Where I learned most of what I know, but did Google and read a lot on dwc. For at least 2-3 years. I did learn ph drops .5 for dwc and water temps 65° air temps 71°. My old room…7x14 …1 window unit a/c …3 fart fans…2 ceiling fans and one ioscillating fan kept room at 71°, which in turn put the water temps at 65°. I never had to chill the water. This year’s attempt I think I’d have to drop blocks of ice. Just about got it under control. Luckily, heat of summer in s.tex is over.

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