If you can give a micro photo can give you my opinion there’s a way to tell
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you mean this thread on RIU ?? def helpful info for ppl purchasing LEDs from chinese suppliers … tell them you want a macro of the diodes they’re sending you and are only placing a ‘small sample order’ to compare against samsung supplied diodes before making a “larger purchase” less odds they’ll rip you off if they think you’re dangling bigger bucks in front of them … they’ll plan to rip you off the second time 
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Definitely worth checking, because you can buy UL/cUL stickers from China 
We got sued recently for a house fire because “our” AFCI failed. Our director of regulatory affairs went to a discovery meeting, and quickly determined that the device in question had our logo, our injection mold, but was in fact lacking all of the patented AFCI circuitry, and was nothing more than a good looking receptacle.
Some contractor got a better deal booing a box of devices off the back of a panel van than through a wholesaler. Burnt a house down. Thankfully nobody was killed.
Another house fire, for the same reason, but with our competitor’s knockoff, claimed the life of a 3 year-old.
Dear OP, please please please buy from reputable establishments, build it yourself, or tear down the Chinese knockoff and rebuild to proper safety spec.
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majority of these big name LED companies (HLG, photon fantom, nextlight, Optic LED etc) are using the same or similar chinese manufacturers from alibaba, probably just test each board with a volt meter or something
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Did you see where guy bought lm561b s5 n s6 diodes from digi and showed how u can tell the difference
tbh i don’t think you can differentiate flux bin just visually … did the guy only buy 1 diode of each to compare?? because if you bought 30 each S5 and S6 there’d probably be a wide variety between both, slight random differences in phosphor layers, ESD, gold wire etc
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I forget how unnaturally technical you are. Nvm bud
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Damn now I wonder which manufacturer you work for lol. R and D a 220 afci/ gfci breaker and you would have the market cornered! It’s been explained why this is not possible but can’t remember atm
One of the big ones
Siemens and Eaton both make 2-pole afci combo breakers btw. Usually 2-pole branch circuits do not require it by code though, so pretty rare and expensive.
True. The issue comes in with shared neutral circuits typically found pre-afci code requirements. Ie dish/disp or kitchen gfi/ fridge. Sure can put a gfi after the breaker.
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Yes house wiring can fuck it up
But you totally can have both in one device. Receptacle or breaker, they are actually code in some areas of BC already.
Gfci is basically a pair of hypersensitive CTs, that measure the current in neutral and ground wires, looking for a threshold, then denying service upon that threshold
Afci is a digital doodad that looks at arc signatures in the line, and in the neutral. It runs several comparison tests, including a real time FFT, line harmonics, etc. looking for both parallel arcs (line-to-neutral) as well as series arcs (line-to-line). How good an afci is depends on how good the database of potential “failures” is. There is a whole department whose job is plugging the oddest appliances onto a test bench and making sure that false trips are excluded 
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I generally like to make sure my receptacle is respectable before i go anywhere near a female with a male pin 
I mentioned LED grow lights to an old pal some time ago, he got back to me the other day saying he had no luck at all.
He’d planted 10 diodes and not a single one came up 
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I feel like a complete retard, lost lika fart n a whirlwinnd. I havent grown since about 2004, and shit has changed! Looks like eveyone now grows in a tent, using leds, drivers and…a dimmer???i assume the leds use less electricity. Ill assume there is less of a heat issue. And ill assume they r very bright since a dimmer is needed. Meanwhile i should go google some info on this.
a dimmer isnt required but can be useful
leds are more efficient and dont draw the heat that bulbs would draw
less heat means you can get the lights closer, run them harder and have less active cooling
you also have cct/color options for having more control over what type of light the plants are receiving and when
you wont really get the par and UV you would from say, a CMH but some led monos will give you a good boost in par
you dont have to use a tent, its just more convenient for some.
a driver is the mostly the same as your ballast used for your cmh/hps/mh etc
however, i do believe that this is causing brighter environments for our plants and its increasing their need for certain nutrients, magnesium being one.
just some info in my folders
Univ.Utah_Growlight_spectral_characteristics.pdf (1.3 MB)
rapidled has a good selection
solstrips from @Baudelaire are also a very good option. hes that guy that can hook you up with what you need
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I’ve had good success with atreum lighting’s quantum board equivalents. $75 for 120W board and heatsink. Comes out to under $1 per watt for lm301b LEDs. Sometimes their connectors come off in shipping though, so be prepared if you have to solder a wire… Otherwise you’ll have to wait on a return.