Looking for some water only soil advice and recipes😊

[Tommy_McCain]

Below are two exact quotes from the pages you sent me. They are saying exactly what I am saying above.
I use Promix because I am a commercial greenhouse grower and I buy pallets of it. I don’t have time to mix that much for flowers and vegetables.

“In a garden, or field situation, you would typically do this every 2 or 3 seasons, as the aeration benefits should last multiple years. Depending on the microbial life in your soil, temps, humidity, crops being grown, etc… you may be able to extend the length of time between incorporating rice hulls into your fields.”

We recommend using around 30% aeration. If going for long term no-till we suggest using half Rice Hulls and Half Pumice or Lava Rock.

[Tommy_McCain]

I want to add to this. My beds are full of microbes. I feed my worms and microbes in my beds Rice Hulls. I refill my mulch (rice hulls) every grow because it is constantly getting eaten.
I’m not saying rice hulls are not good aeration, you have to watch because it decomposes over a year.

I have four pots that are 3 years old. If someone would have told me to just use Rice Hulls when I started them…I would have zero aeration left. Guaranteed.

[Tommy_McCain]

@nube

Why would they steer all of us so obviously wrong if it even has a slight chance of doing what you said?

You didn’t even read the article. What kind of expert are you? I’m open minded. When you sent me the articles I went and read them. They mention multiple times to watch because Rice Hulls break down over time in soil. Why would you attack me and say I’m “obviously wrong”? I’m speaking from actual experience.

[Seamonkey84]

Yea… I would think that using it as the only source of aeration for long term will mean you need to re-apply it into the soil. Once it breaks down, there’s no more aeration.

[nube]

@Tommy_McCain

Below are two exact quotes from the pages you sent me. They are saying exactly what I am saying above.
I use Promix because I am a commercial greenhouse grower and I buy pallets of it. I don’t have time to mix that much for flowers and vegetables.

“In a garden, or field situation, you would typically do this every 2 or 3 seasons, as the aeration benefits should last multiple years. Depending on the microbial life in your soil, temps, humidity, crops being grown, etc… you may be able to extend the length of time between incorporating rice hulls into your fields.”

We recommend using around 30% aeration. If going for long term no-till we suggest using half Rice Hulls and Half Pumice or Lava Rock.

Sorry man, maybe I’m dumb but I’m just not seeing it. Neither of those quotes say anything about

@Tommy_McCain

It decomposes and you get a mass of concrete like dirt.

due to rice hull decomposition. That was your claim I questioned. In fact, the first one says the opposite of compaction.

I did state that they recommend either full rice hulls or a mix including rice hulls, but no mention of concrete or compaction. They all mention the opposite of soil compaction by using rice hulls. They say the decomposition of it is good for the soil, not bad like you claimed.

Again, I’ve never seen anyone else say “rice hulls become concrete-like dirt” as you said. Has anyone else experienced this?

@Tommy_McCain

You didn’t even read the article. What kind of expert are you? I’m open minded. When you sent me the articles I went and read them. They mention multiple times to watch because Rice Hulls break down over time in soil. Why would you attack me and say I’m “obviously wrong”? I’m speaking from actual experience.

There was no attack of you. I asked questions about your claim because I can’t find any evidence to support it. I said nothing about you personally, so I guess I’m curious why did your mind go there?

I’m no expert, I’ve never claimed I was, and I don’t really get why you’d question my expert status. I don’t understand why you then started with the ad hominem attack against me. Are your claims above reproach? Are we not suppose to ask questions here?

I’m trying to learn here, which is why I asked. You said rice hulls turn into concrete-like dirt, but none of the resources I’ve ever read and nobody else has claimed this. Extraordinary claims require extraordinary proof, which is why I asked if you have any references or pics/video of your valuable experience. I even liked all of your posts in an attempt to make you feel like I’m not attacking you. Yeesh. lol

Yes rice hulls decompose, but not into a hard concrete-like substance. Quite the opposite, all the other resources say rice hulls improve soil tilth, making soil fluffier over time. Breaking down does not equal “concrete like dirt” at least not in my mind.

I guess I don’t know what I’m missing, nor why you attacked me personally.

[Tommy_McCain]

Do rice hulls decompose? (I’m asking you.)
Do you use rice hulls?

Are you saying,
“rice hulls never break down and don’t need to be replaced?”
“you can use them as the only aeration in a no till pot?”

That article warns the same thing I warn above. If you use rice hulls in a long term bed, they will decompose.

More quotes from the same one.
“I have seen rice hulls last 3 to 5 years before most has broken down” My bed is over 3 years
“Depending on the microbial life” Totally agree with these statements

My microbe life destroys rice hulls in one year or less. I guarantee.

Are you saying that my beds do not require aeration after 3 years?

Are you saying my not till beds do not require aeration?

[Tommy_McCain]

You did not answer my questions.

[cannabliss]

huh that was intense and yes they do decompose and I would guess that would be good as in they break down into something idk carbon but they dont turn into concrete not themselves at least but once they ar gone they ar well, gone no morē aeration at which point you may have to do some tilling but I am very knew to no till lifeIt’s been a slow journey be safe out there folks

[EpiKatz]

A lot depends on the soils, climate, etc. I tried a minimalist experiment: 15 gal totes (drilled holes) filled with 1/2 Happy Frog (or any top quality potting soil) and 1/2 worm castings. A little composted cow poop on top, watered in with silica (stem strength) cal mag, and liquid bone meal (follow directions) that’s it. A few weeks before budding added a little potash. I like you’re adding worms. Give them something to munch on maybe cut up a banana peel, compost is always good for growing worms and plants. Good luck.

[SillyHippy]

I actually ended up doing a completely different recipe in a Grassroots bed.

Since then ive used a few water only mixed if using big pots you don’t need to top dress.

But I’ve used these soil mixes with good results but smaller pots usually have to top dress.

Langbenite - water soulable K bloom booster
Azomite
Alfalfa
Fisbone meal
Kelp meal
Water soluable kelp 0.0.17
Frass
444
power bloom 2.8.4
mineralized phosphate 0.9.0 add to bloom tea top dress the sludge

Cow sheep chicken kinds of manure and earthworms casting - 1- 2 cups per 10g bag.

2 tablespoons per gallon
(except water soulable kelp)

Water it all let it sit for 4 weeks or more then plant.

---

This is what I use now and like the most:

Instructions for Dr Earth:

The rule of thumb when growing organic cannabis with Dr Earth is to use 2 tablespoons per gallon of medium. That is when amending the coco to start, and top dressing every 3-4 weeks. With that being said, you may mix up your ratios however you please. You do not need to follow exactly how I do. Do keep in mind though unless you plan on feeding Calcium another way, you do always need the Tomato Veg (4-6-3) since it is your Calcium source.

When using Dr Earth you must water with a PH of 6.5-6.8 fluctuating between

Autoflower
Medium:
75% - 75% Coco Coir/25% Perlite
25% - Worm Casting

Dry Amendments: 2 TBSP/Gallon
•Amending Coco to start - 70% Tomato Veg (4-6-3) / 30% FlowerGirl (3-9-4)
•Day 24 (Pre-Flower) Top Dress - 50% Tomato Veg (4-6-3) / 50% FlowerGirl (3-9-4)
•Day 45-48 (Mid-Flower) Top Dress - 30% Tomato Veg / 70% FlowerGirl (3-9-4)

At this point you are basically on a cruise control of watering when dry until harvest. Every now and then you will have an autoflower that will go 100 days. If you happen to get to Day 70 and you are obviously not close, go ahead and top dress 30% Tomato Veg (4-6-3) / 70% FlowerGirl.

No Flushing since you are running organic dry amendments and flushing is basically just watering… which you already are.

Photoperiod
Medium:
75% - 75% Coco Coir/25% Perlite
25% - Worm Casting

Dry Amendments: 2 TBSP/Gallon
•Start in Solo Cup with 3/4 Teaspoon of Tomato Veg (4-6-3)
•Day 18 - Transplant to 2 Gallon container amended with 70% Tomato Veg (4-6-3) / 30% All Purpose (4-4-4)
•Day 42 - Transplant to 5 Gallon container amended with 50% Tomato Veg (4-6-3) / 50% FlowerGirl (3-9-4)
•Day 49 - Switch lights to 12/12
•Day 66 - Top Dress with 30% Tomato Veg (4-6-3) / 70% FlowerGirl (3-9-4)
•Continue to top dress every 2 weeks with last ratio but make sure to stop 2 weeks before harvest.

You can use the same concept of DR. Earth with gaia green 444 - 286 (just add some gypsum and galical rock dust, a high P, and a high K), roots organic terp tea, mr bs trees, down to earth the the 484 is to much N in flower ect…

[Rogue]

Or you can get certified organic soil / compost.

Add:

• grass clippings
• tree leaves
• dandelion
• thistle
• nettles
• horsetail
• horse manure
• banana peels (phosophor + potassium) and other fruit and veg kitchen scraps

For N you can sow vetch at same time as your cannabis and chop & drop the vetch when it starts flowering. It’s called “cover crop” or “green manure”. Research permaculture and you’ll find out a wealth of information that will save you a lot of money.

I keep sowing in the same pot while topdressing and use rainwater without any problems.