I’m saying you need to adjust the environment with the seasons because we do not have a stable year round climate in this part of the country. I don’t run a heat mat in the summer, I run a dehumidifier in the summer and fall and in the winter a lot of times a humidifier. You have to adapt or the plants will do this. I think you have a combination of low root temps and lack of water causing nutrient issues/lockout.
Agreed. I’ve got my plants raised 18" and getting ready to fire up the heater during lights out. Change with the seasons is very true.
OK i’m here to trust the experience, and I must admit our temps outside here in NJ have been crazy… I didn’t think it would be an issue… My oil burner furnace is about 10 ft away-- and the whole basement is pretty stable but …it’s an easy thing to try and fix. I’ll bring it off the floor…
That’s going to drop your humidity alot. Does your furnace throw off a ton of heat at the furnace? Mine doesn’t really
What are the ratios of the coco, perlite, vermiculite, compost, garden dirt etc?
My guess is too much coco, perlite, vermiculite and not enough nutrients, perhaps.
Sow some nitrogen fixing companion crops, that never hurts.
Beans, vetch, clover, peas.
Chop and drop when they start to flower.
May I suggest maintaining an open mind toward suggestions “Certified OGs” are putting forth. Finding a reason to negate valid suggestions will only result in others NOT offering suggestions, thus causing problem(s) to persist. SS/BW…mister 
Just wanted to give my .02, this video helped me a lot with understanding soil moisture for living soil.
Might not be a bad idea to get a soil moisture meter, that way you can rule out watering issues. I would also highly recommended pHing your water. I don’t have a meter, I use general hydroponics test drops to keep it super cheap. I was having problems with my tap water having extremely high pH (7.5-8) and it seemed to cause me problems. I know others don’t pH for living soil, but if your tap water is that extreme it definitely won’t hurt. I’m not super experienced but I had some problems similar to yours and was pulling my hair out until I pH’d my water.
So, as a newbie- i hit my reply limit- sorry I couldn’t get back to anyone till now…
first batch of soil was made as follows…
3 shovels of choice black garden dirt ( fallow for a year)
3 shovels of mid pile house and garden compost (sifted)
3/4 of a block of coco broken up (say 7 lbs dry compressed)
11 liter bag of perlite
11 liter bag of vermiculite
1 shovel of peat
this resulted in about a level mason wheelbarrow of soil… (about half went into the first 5 pots)
next batch was the leftovers plus another round of the aboveplus:
1 cup garden lime
10lbs worm castings
aged about 30 days…
this is my soil that I’m currently running
So, I did a quick and dirty lift off the floor,…it’s kinda funny in that about 2 weeks ago I started opening my tent up all day so I wouldn’t get into those high 70 degree temps. Even had the basement windows open… but the weather outside has been nuts…30 degree temps swings in 24 hours has been a weekly thing…I gotta say that could be it…but it could also be wacky coco no?
There’s nothing wrong with temps up to the low 80s. Lower temps prevent the plants from uptaking the nutrients properly making it look like lockout.
Just as I suspected, way too much perlite and vermiculite.
I don’t even add it to my soil. You only need extra vermiculite or perlite when you’re in a very high humidity environment like the tropics or so.
I never change the soil in my pots since I follow the permaculture method, I just keep topdressing and sowing nitrogen fixing plants alongside my cannabis.
The old roots decompose after harvest and take care of the drainage and fertilize the new plants.
Best you can do is probably to prepare a seperate new mix of only compost, garden dirt, and worm castings. Then carefully scoop the plants out of the pots, temporarily put them in plastic bags perhaps, pour the old mix onto a seperate pile.
Then add… 10-20% of your old mix containing the excess perlite etc to your new mix.
Fill your pots with that new mix and put the plants back.
I think that’s the best way to go about it if you wanna stay organic.
I have some clover in a few pots, wildlings…
I have 4 pots of spare soil and extra pots at the moment, leftovers waiting for next weeks planting. So I could move some seedlings pretty easily…I questioned the perlite and vermiculite too? (as in why both?) but was assured that the recepie was legit… What’s the excess doing thats the particular problem>? Just trying to understand… I have not yet heard of the permaculture method but it sounds interesting…
Perlite and vermiculite are pretty much dead weight, they add little to no nutritional value to the soil.
It takes up a lot of space that could be organic fertilizer.
There’s so many different methods. It’s important to check what method a grower uses before you take their advice. You might have gotten that soil recipe from someone who uses synthetic fertilizer, if you grow organically, without synthetics, then that soil recipe might not work very well.
Can you check the soil temp?
I use mostly coco but amended with organics in fabric pots it swamp cools well but in my experience soil temps 75-85 in veg is best vpd with leaf surface temp around 1.2 is fine if you’re good there then they’re hungry you can foliar feed temporarily.
P.s im in vegas no basement, on carpet in small closet, with heatmat on still.
So the way hydro do it is with low ph and synthetic to get around root zone metabolism but i could be saying bro science.
Research Rice Hulls for a safe sustainable organic alternative to both Vermiculite and perlite. Perlite is harmful to your lungs and there is a very small chance that Vermiculite may contain trace amounts of asbestos.
How to Use Soil Amendments-Rice Hulls - Organic Gardening – Grow Organic.
Do you have PH meter and PH your water to 6.2🤔