We do!! 
Not so much for pests but for its fungicide properties to prevent dampening off as well as, a hormonal boost
Cool article Niburan…never thought of applying cinnamon in a tea hmmm gonna have to try that
Cinamon oil also help with spider mite control.
I’ve used in past (alongside rosemary oil).
It is somewhat “hot” so too much will burn.
But is always great to mix a bit of it on foliar sparays to help avoiid fungus
In my micro thread I mentioned taking apart my ghetto veg area due to temperature swings now that fall has set in with winter knocking on the door. The clones weren’t doing so hot…
6 hrs later and they are doing much better…had to rewet their dried out pellets and mist the cover
You see an extra one in there. Whelp, I had an accident with #4 … installed the frame for the monkey fan then as I was lowering the light from 5’ above them to 3’ above, the exhale co2 bag fell so now she is really little. Thankfully that is one of the green sap ones but still…
Numbers 1 and 5 also sacrificed a few leaves to help me determine when is the best time for brix readings on their current day/night schedule…
As you can see, the numbers go down as the day progresses to send nutrients from photosynthesis down to the roots. Just in time for their growth foliar - taken an hour before lights out (17 hrs daylite) and 1 hr later…
Tomorrow, I am going to lower the light another foot so it’ll be 2’ above them and once they get their growth tea drench on Tuesday, I am going to flip the lights on them to see which ones are boys and which are girls then when they go back to 18/6 resume building up their sap again…this will also help them build foliage for more brix readings
For some reason I lost about 5 days of this thread, my bad looking like things are dialed in really well here @MomOnTheRun even have a couple more bookmarks collected keep up the great work!
No worries… I just got caught up on a thread from a month ago
I finally received the soil test…yesterday though had a migraine that persisted for most of the day. Anyhow, looks like we get to double the amount of soil to dilute the available nutrients…
I have no idea what their inferno product is and awaiting a reply but their transplant formula is: Calcium Sulphate (Gypsum), Calcium Phosphate (Soft Rock Phosphate), Calcium Carbonate (limestone chalk), Volcanic rock powders with silicon (Basalt) and live microbes.
Now for a look at the numbers of what is available for the plants as is
Not bad at all!
(Nitrogen) Nitrates and (Nitrogen) Ammonia are simply a snap shot at the time of testing as the microorganisms gradually changes the organic residues and fertilizers so a high number is expected here
Phosphorus ratio is surprisingly low though the level is ~4x’s recommended levels… thats ok as it will lock onto some of the iron to tie it up
Potassium level is really high due to the various rock powders, chicken manure and ewc which also gives a high sodium number…this will be removed faster than it can be replenished though 15x’s the recommended amount is a bit much so no more compost and animal manures
Calcium and magnesium is right on target
ERGs (soil electroconductivity) is really high which is awesome as it means the microbes are doing their job with the rock powders…combined with the surprisingly low humus it is important to keep this number high
ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential aka Redox) is right on target showing the bacterial water quality
PH was expected
Copper though is very surprising as it is influenced by organic matter as well as, iron and magnesium which the soil has plenty of. because it is so low, the plants will have a difficult time building starch (sugar sap/brix), reduce nitrogen fixation, delay flowering and pollen may be sterile…luckily we haven’t seen any wilting or dieback though I am sure that is right around the corner as the cotyledons are shriveling up.
I am not sure what affects Zinc has on plants though it is very high
Manganese is another surprising low…this is responsible for chlorophyll creation disintegrating/activating enzymes to break down carbs and ensures nitrates can be used for creating proteins
Next up is CEC (cation exchange capacity): attract, retain and exchange cation elements
This just goes to show how powerful any additions can be especially when estimating 
Sooooo once the plants are sexed, I am going to remix the soil …for every 9 gallons (3pots) add: 1gallon native topsoil, 1gallon peat, 1 gallon perlite, 1/4 cup mineral mix (6-5-3 gypsum, SRP and chalk), 1/4 tsp Copper Sulphate Pentahydrate and 1/2 tsp Manganese Sulfate Monohydrate, plant a cover crop with a mix of german chamomile and dutch white clover then do the recommended monthly drenches of Calmag Plus and Ful Power until the spring.
I will also do 1 more foliar of the mineral mix with a very small amount of copper and manganese once my order comes in (Oct 1st - 4th) as these are immobile through the plant then reserve the growth tea mix for if/when growth is lagging
and now to see the plants progress so far…
Close ups…
Day 32 for #'s 1 - 3
Day 31 for #'s 4 - 6
Day 23 for #7
…and so it goes. 
my reactive thought is it needs to be more like 40% humus, right?
Yes it does. Nice you said reactive… basically, all the additives to make this soil are composting/fermenting in place. The humus is building starting with the 2gallons of composted leaf/leaf mold at the beginning and currently broken down so from here all we can do is build it up through green manures/cover crop. I am going to be using dutch white clover to help remove the high amounts of nitrogen (nitrates and ammonia) which will be returned as it dies back and composts in place and german chamomile to uptake a little bit more though when it dies back and composts in place, it will not only give the nutrients back but releases compounds to protect against botrytis and antagonizes cannabis to produce more trichomes…all the while creating humus which is also created by roots growing and dying back in place.
New plan…the sodium levels are really bothering me so I talked to Luke at IAL and discussed the results more in depth for my indoor 3 sisters veggie garden (tomato, cucumber and lettuce). He agreed it is too high as is phosphorus and suggested to dilute the soil in half with native soil then retest for more accuracy so may not need copper and manganese or pissed off microbes. So this is what I am going to do:
Sex the plants
Decide which 3-4 stays to free up 3 pots (8.5-9 gal)
Remix the 3 pots with 9 gallons soil from the woods…doesn’t get more native than that lol
Retest the re-amended soil and add on the boron and sulfur tests
Keep an eye on the keepers for any issues to treat as necessary
Plant a cover crop in the re-amended soil
Follow the new recommendations
Transplant the keepers into the correct ratio mix
Re-amend the keepers soil with 9 gallons soil from the woods
Put the keepers into flower ~Oct 25th to Nov 1st
Take clones through stretch
Flower clones after 5 wks veg
This will be a temporary set back adding 1-2 wks onto the timeline goal though will be worth it in the long run as this will give enough soil for both 3x3x8 cabinets, the plants will grow better and can alternate the cabinets between flower and veg for 4 seed runs through the winter in 20 gallon pots…3 batches of regular seeds and 1 batch of feminized seeds with the 1st batch will be ready to go at the end of January/beginning February just in time for valentines
Sound like a plan?
@MomOnTheRun forget&forgive my stupid question on your grow log, i’ve missed this thread hardly in the OG mass ^^
No worries…lots of awesome journals to follow
The sodium/animal poo/EWC relationship you mentioned was the other thing that jumped out to me; I made a big batch of vermicompost and it resulted in a 9.4 pH.
My base was horse stall shavings w/manure, year old “super soil” (subcool/vichigh), and lot’s of people food, worm food(flour, corn meal, etc.), plus various extras like left over chicken feed & soil amendments that were used in the supersoil.
People food, at least 'Merican like mine, has loads of salt.
I understand what goes into the worm comes out with N-P-K more concentrated by factors of 5-7-11,(respectively).
ari ess pee eesie tee… 
Wow! That is a high ph…must have used a lot of peat to cut it down?
I had no idea… I knew they added to the values though not like that - great to file away for the future!
Impressive log Mom, and thanks to have take the time to share the refractometer’s readings. I’m still continue to study the possibilities of this tool in breeding before integrating it, even if it burn me to buy one lol.
I will be very, specially, interrested if you make a “sap comparison” between the very last week of vegetative stage (just before the switch) and the end of the stretch (lets say flo+30 with this blood).
I known by the electroculture than cannabis is very much less reactive to zinc than with cal-mag, the content in vegetal mass in zinc being relativly low and stable (instead cal-mag). I known also than if the zinc is locked, at toxic level or not available, it limit greatly (in a bad way) the activity of tetrahydrocannabinolic acid synthase. So, a “difficult metabolization” will bias the expression of potency of specimens this way.
Not so much aside these twos points, specifically for cannabis. I must confess than i’m very less passionate by soil activity and organic management, these discovers was totally contextual back in the days (use of zinc and copper bars in soil).
best vibes for your bleeding babies, that’s fun as hell lol
My pleasure!
It is an underused tool as well as, taking leaf temperatures…people just want to grow great bud and could care less about increasing sap though imho that’s the very thing that gives great bud 
Absolutely! I don’t expect to get much more than 5 brix if that this 1st run and bud/flower will give higher readings than leaf so this will be ongoing to ensure the plants are metabolizing like they should especially after the soil is worked out
Interesting. I’ll have to look more into electroculture - bet it runs in tandem with this grow style
Many are and settle for what appears to be nice plants and get a routine set up around what is visibly seen…most wouldn’t worry at this point and would just go with it as the plants have nice coloration, are fast growing and most leaves have 5-7 fingers with #7 reaching 10…by all appearances look healthy enough and they are just could be that much better
Thank you! I am having fun with them…explained to my daughter what the goal is and she said “ok mom, that is a bit over the top…sap just isn’t red so if you do get any, I have to see” After I posted here, I texted her the picture and she responded with “Oh thats soooo cool! I can’t believe its actually doing it lol” . Now she is sharing it with her friends and they want to see in person as 1 said that the picture is clearly Photoshopped…guess he is in for a surprise lol
Lmao I’ve a teenager too. He can’t resist to check the rounds of my offsprings, to moking me if i’ve failed the cross ^^
But it’s more strict with the daddy’s stuff for security reasons, it’s hot here.
Electroculture is passionnating (both for outdoor and indoor) but very demanding in term of focus. You can explore a wide range of spectacular experiments : from the “near zero (celsius)” grow , infested land but “pest free perimeter”, to the hydroponics in electrolyte (CEC mecanisms study) and so much more in genetics. It literrally learned me how to grow PH free also and to breed strains this way. I can’t imagine what can learn from it a person more passionnated by the biology itself. Require a bit of equipment (specially for the “regulated alimentation”) but it value the ride.
I forgot to say than most of the specimens have variegations, the allelic game with this generation will be rodeo i think. I can be wrong but i think than a load of F3 will be necessary to re-gain control on the line on the main traits. imho it will be a safe strategy to don’t stack to much selections factors on this round, or eventually to split them in parralel lines.