Update time! I am kicking myself for not taking any brix readings before the mineral foliar yesterday and drench today for a current baseline. Oh well, we have it now 
Miss D
Mr Dās
Meanwhile, the clones grew ~1/2" here on day 5 since cuttingā¦ no roots yet though looking promising they will have them in the next week or soā¦
thatās a great idea about donating to a local chapter. iāll consider that for sure.
as an example of the flexible atmosphere in scouting, (and my eccentricities 
), i went to scout camp in the summer of 5th or 6th grade & was so bored with my first aid class that i just stopped going, went to the archery range & snagged a canoe, went fishing, made my own fire & dinner, all somehow without adults intervening. I remember them raising an eyebrow but that was about it. heh. managed to show up & get that first-aid patch though.
lone-wolf mc-kid
by the way the garden looks good as usual 
Interresting to see the brix pattern from day25-28, day37 and day52 (pre-stretch?). Canāt wait the post stretch read.
I find it interesting as wellā¦#1 is still holding reign for the most sugar content in spite of going into flower, transplant and back into veg. The girl and #7 are taking their time returning to veg though seeing the leaves forming among the sex organsā¦this tactic delays the grow though gives time for the new soil test results to come in then we can figure out if itāll be better to keep the girl in the 1st mix (root drench and foliar micronutes) or move her over to the 2nd (new) mix like the boysā¦if I can get the brix up to say an 8 then come flower, the plants will not rely on their roots and xylem to bud as they will have the āexcessā and not work as hard giving bigger and more productive flowers for better seeding.
Come official flower timeā¦probably ~2-3wks for the soil and brix to get sorted. Iāll flip the girl 1st then clone and add in #1 boy. Once he is out of the way, I can then put #2 & 7 in my 2x3x4 veg area (crowded atm) and set the clones of the girl in a shared 3x3 square-ish fabric pot to veg for a bit to stagger the 2 harvests - clone them and flip to flower then put #2 boy in the middle and clone him leaving #7 on standby until the girl from seed is done.
Further behind than I wanted to be at this point though it will be worth it in the long run as weāve already seen how they react in the 1st mix taking āforeverā to transition.
Actually my grid is pretty simple, in respect with the stability of the #1 rate. No matter the foliar feed or anything, the brix level stay pretty rockstable and the average donāt change so much. Then I will have obviously the tendency to say than itās purely genetic for notable differences among the specimens.
For the post-stretch, my main question is to see if the brix of the #1 stay as stable than it is since the begin. And how it will translate in term of difference with the others specimens, in the common traits we are all looking for. But the reveg strategy will fool the dices imho. I donāt get the point of this stage in the strategy btw
If iāve followed well you will make a #1x#7 line and a #1x#2 line ?
Not in my experienceā¦it is true we are measuring sugar in the sap though we are also measuring carbohydrate levels, dissolved minerals and amount of covalent bond in non metals ie hydrogen + oxygen = waterā¦a great additional measure on plant health. It so happens that calcium levels both raise and lower according to brix levelsā¦low calcium almost always equals low magnesium which I am seeing now on the girl with her stems turning purpleā¦a little bit on the boys though not like her. Also, their sap is affected as wellā¦
The girl (#3) with her brix reading at 1
Boy #1 with his brix reading at 3
Please donāt mind my dirty fingernails as I was playing in dirt again transplanting a couple girls.
If elements are out of balance, there is no way the plant can reach maximum potential and max potential is what we want in our parents for the healthiest seeds they can produce - there is no way that can happen as is unless utilizing a lot of short term remedial fixesā¦idk about you but I would rather wait for the results of the newest (and last til spring) soil report for a more long term fix 
Sorry. I should have simplified it more with a straight forward time frame instead of rambling lolā¦#3 is our only girl sooooo:
1 x 3 in Cabinet 1ā¦ Flip the lights 11/3; #1 visits from 11/17 - 12/15; harvest ~1/26; dispense seeds ~2/9
2 x 3 clones in Cabinet 2ā¦Flip the lights 12/1; #2 visits from 12/15 - 1/12; harvest ~2/23; dispense seeds ~3/9
7 x 3 clones in Cabinet 1ā¦Flip the lights1/30; #7 visits from 2/13 - 3/13; harvest ~4/24; dispense seeds ~5/8
1, 2, 7 clones x 3 clones in Cabinet 2ā¦ Flip the lights 2/26; males visit from 3/12 - 4/9; harvest ~5/21
Once Jelly Pie is done (~1/9), I will be using the micro cabinet to do at least 1 run of feminizing #3 before I shut down all but 1 cabinet at the end of May/Beginning June for the summer and restart ~end August/Beginning September with either clones of these plants or seeds they have producedā¦iāll let the community decide when we get ready to cross that bridge
Losted in translation i presume. My comment is based on the comparative brix rateās samples youāre sharing (3 until now), and they are barely the same each time. This is the pattern iām talking about, considering your feeding program and the look of the plants.
We can debate eventually on the use of extra Cal/Mag in cannabis crops, but this was not my point initially ^^ And you will not like it iām sure lol
I was in fear than it was the objective in fact. From experience, offspring of reveg specimens are always comparatively inferior. You totally underestimate the shock than it is for the plant, specially with a line than is allready showing variegations since early. Many chem4 āownersā was screwed this way, with the incapacity to produce anymore an offspring at the grade of their very first releases. I allready known by advance than you will not believe it one second until you have enough lines under the belt; but i allready known too than one day you will say thx to this annoying Fuel for that lol
About my habits, i grow in dead soil and coco than i pass in microwave, with mostly long term inbred lines. I use more carencies as genetic markers than the content of the soil, and i fear more overfert plants to decypher their inner pattern than deficiencies. Itās a different school, but not the only one.
Now on the strategy, i never let age my motherplants more than a year (in practice i renew them each trimester) and iām very very picky on all eventual genetic drifts during the life of the selected plant. Itās why i keep it short. Thatās the counterpart to work mainly with inbred lines, any sign of late mutation can throw in toilet years of stabilization, if not decades.
Damn ok, the poll fooled me maybe. Three lines using the #3, secure choice to eventually go ahead in generations. And i was not aware than the project will sit one year round your space, very nice dedication from you. I wish you a result a the level of this dedication.
Probably lol I see what your sayingā¦want to do a fun experiment? Tomorrow can be a foliar day (3days after the root drench) for #1 since he has the highest brix readingsā¦iāll simply spray him with a kelp foliar which heāll love for vegetation just not so much for nutrient storage which will be reflected in the brix measurement of his sap then we can see how long it takes him to build it back up again
No debate 
Per the soil test the nutrients are almost in balance with each other just in excessā¦its probably the potassium being 15xās more than needed, phosphorus 4xās more than needed or even the high sodium levels that is doing it. I should transplant her into the remixed soil like I did with the boys though it is good to visually see the differences while we wait as many run a mix similar to the one the girl is in If the reddening gets more extreme than it is now, iāll give her a foliar of magnesium to help her get back on track though that is a very short term fix and she isnāt doing too badly as is
I could say screw it and transplant them all into some aged recycled soil like I have Peyote Critical in. Here she is in her 2nd week since light flip and 3 hrs into her night cycle
It would be easier for sure though it would defeat the purpose of this style of grow, skew brix readings as well as, the bud profile when I get it tested in February though meeting half way, I ordered Doc Buds High Brix kit which should be here by Nov 3rd to run that in the cabinet with the new clones and compare to their momās soil mix with the help of the labā¦just to be thorough
I believe youā¦many say the same thing about clones believing they lose something in the process which may happen if the mother wasnāt as healthy as she appeared. Weāve already seen the slooow transition to show sex and rooting in the 1st set of clones that I tossed from low micro nutrient levels the mom hadā¦being more prepared this 2nd time around providing the missing manganese and copper with a boost of b1 a couple days before cutting, all are looking better and 2 of the 6 clones are showing root formation here on day 7
Now to see if they finish shooting out or go in stasis like the last set. Being in fear of that, it wouldnāt hurt to give them a micronutrient foliar with plant starter at this stage though iāll wait another few days to see what happens first.
Anyhow, it does take a lot of energy to go back/forth though I donāt see the harm in doing it once to force them showing sex and give a month to recuperate while we wait to sort out the soil plus the 2nd time around we will be more prepared to have mom flower a couple weeks before her suitor for better pollination
Many ways to skin a cat 
Being new to the breeding game, I value all input those more experienced have - you have given some food for thought which I really appreciateā¦thank you 
Yup! This is why I am spending the time on this now rather than rushing into producing seeds with incomplete dataā¦hopefully itāll help give a bigger picture and support whoever takes over continuing the project
I donāt mind Iām thinking itās quite sexy BTW! Lol!
And now sheās showing us her bedroom! 
Thanks for your advice as always(re: microgrowing environment). I guess Iāve made progress in that Iāve determined I should use material that reflects light, traps humidity, but NOT heat, keep it vented, & simply sacrifice ambient humidity over all other factors. If it getās out of whack too far (rockinā 26% at 73F right now 
).
My clones are outgrowing the rubbermaid bin & hit the saran-wrap ceiling, nixed that but need to do something today.
Only the parts worth seeing lol
No problem! As Mr Sparkle pointed out to me, donāt worry about the humidity so much as the plants will give off plenty once they get biggerā¦if its really affecting the plants then you can make a make shift swamp cooler with your circulation fan, wet hand towel and small water container if you donāt have a cool mist humidifier though that is not as important as getting rid of the heat
Ok, here we go. I mixed 1/2Tb Maxicrop Kelp into 2c water and let it sit overnight - gave it a stir every so often. This morning I took his brix readings, sprayed with the kelp foliar, waited 2 hrs then took his brix reading again
Now iāll take his brix readings again (at the same time) on Wednesday before and after the mineral mix foliar to see the affects
how are you measuring the brix ??? i really appreciate your attention to detail and thoroughness///
I put a couple drops of distilled water onto the lens of the refractometer then wait a minute to stabilise. Once that is done, itāll need calibration (little screw) so the line is at the ā0ā mark when looking through the lens then pinch off a leaf from the middle of the plant and squish the stem and some leaf on the refractometer lens then remove the leaf and record the number for your brix reading in that moment of time for that section of the plant.
For best results, youāll want to take readings at the same time and preferably ~2-3 hrs before lights off as that will be the highest readingā¦ 1 hr before lights off, sap slows down; during lights off the plant moves nutrients around to where needed and the rest into storage then starts building sugars again when the light cycle starts back up
Invaluable info this one man! Thanks.
So, quick, super-convoluted question, just to make sure I fully comprehend whatās going on right now. The drop in brix after the foliar is what you expected to see, because the cytokinins and gibberellins in the kelp need to burn the stored sugars in order to fuel the increase in cell division and expansion?
How long would you expect it to take to recover to the point it was at before the foliar, and would you expect the brix to be even higher next time it is checked?
Rightā¦see told yaāll I needed help to explain some things
As far as I know, Auxins = root growth and mass; Cytokins = delays aging, shoot growth and mass so when using something like kelp that has both, we see a little of bothā¦if there are more auxins, we see more root growth and like wise with cytokins on shoot growth. When either of these are applied, it is highly recommended to use silica as not only a protectant from the stress of the growth boost but as a stiffener as well to help support the fast cell division otherwise you get a viney growth pattern which is great for training just not so great for holding up flowersā¦gibberelins is more to break dormancy and help respiration
Whenever the plant is forced into quick growth, it will use all available resources and if they are not are available in that moment, it will pull them out of storage (if there) leading to low sap production and eventually hollow stems the longer it goes without being replaced so the more the plant is pushed, the more extreme it is
I do not expect the brix to go back up until the starches, sugars and other nutrients are replaced in the plants storage systemā¦this wonāt happen naturally in the soil we built so it has to be applied with the mineral, starch and seedling foliars. Since we are in veg, I expect it to take longer as the plant prefers to use them rather than store themā¦once that threshold is met, brix goes back up again
Hmm, I hadnt considered the kelp as a significant source of auxin. Looks like Imma have to do some more reading.
And yeah, that viney growth is from the gibberellins inducing a āshade-avoidanceā response. Silica to support the cell structure as they expand is good advice. 
This high Brix gardening is interesting. Where did you learn it? Got a book reference for us nerdy reading types? 
