For peak efficiency, it is best to run the drivers full power and the diodes run soft. In other words, it is better to undersize the driver than run it dimmed constantly. Dimming the driver causes it to be less efficient.
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To add to @Jellypowered information I use a hlg320h 24a and get close to 370w over 10 strips. But I’m in the UK and our circuits run on 240v (closer to 247v) from the wall. Good luck with your build brother. Plenty of people to call on if you’re stuck. And jelly’s a clever guy
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Hi bisceg - Thanks for considering SolStix. Your design looks solid. I would second the twin HLG-320H-36B choice. They will give you the power you need for the 72w X3s, where the efficiency/output/heat management sweetspot is right around 60w per strip. @Jellypowered is correct that the Mean Well 320w drivers will likely top out around 360-380w, giving you all the power you need to run your rig from near max to 50%. And two drivers will give you some redundancy and additional options for operational control.
This is probably a good time to announce that we’ve added an X3 option to our SolSheet line, both in the Original and X lamp formats, and are now carrying all of our listed drivers in 36v (X3) and 24v (X2) versions. We default to the A models (with the built-in dimmers) but will supply B models upon request - just note it in your order.
-b420
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I’m starting to get it. I keep applying my understanding of AC circuits, where the wattage of a load is fixed and that’s how much power it’s going to consume. In these LED circuits, the driver will put out whatever it will put out and this power will be applied across the LED’s connected?
My drivers will be outside the grow box, so heat shouldn’t be too much of an issue. It’s in a basement location, which stays pretty cool all year around.
Sounds like I shouldn’t worry about dimming. Perhaps a Type A driver is adequate? I have plenty of height, so I can raise/lower the lights to control intensity to canopy I guess.
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Thanks all!
Finalizing my order now…
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My last rig was a combination of x2 strips and cobs but it was a bit too big to be practical for working on and when in use (and i kept hitting my head on it) .My current rig is two frames of x2 strips with a driver each so i can use them independently of each other or together as one bigger unit. Also it means i can vary the height of the rigs to allow for tall and short plants in the same space. I’m loving this rig, best i have ever used and future proof 
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Honestly mate it’s really simple. I’ve not dealt with the x3’s personally but I’ve dealt with x1 X2 and cobs at 36v. Sounds like you’re gonna have a monster rig to be fair. Kinda jelaous cos I wanted a go of the x3’s myself
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If you don´t mind soldering potentiometers (and putting them into a project box, for better appearance), I´d recommend B type drivers. Although I don´t mess with the power often, I find the internal pot a bit cumbersome to use in some situations (takes a very small screwdriver and turning a tiny -sensitive!- knob).
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Not to mention the B-type drivers can be controlled with PWM allowing all kinds of automation. Like the Bluefish I use.
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True that the B type allow more dimming OPTIONS. I just don’t find many folks who buy a 300w driver and run it at 50%. Or set up automated dim-down and dim-up periods with Arduino’s, etc. More like, they fire it up to 110% of rated max (which you can do with a type A), and hang it as close as possible without scorching the tops, and grow grow grow…
Even for temporary dimming during seedling/cloning etc., dialing down the A pot is a 30 second, one screwdriver effort. And Mean Well’s internal pots are much better quality than the external pots that are available on Ebay etc.
Unless you are going towards a multi-driver, electronically automated system, the A drivers are superior for virtually all typical applications, IMO. If all you want is a knob to manually adjust, get an A and keep a Phillips screwdriver handy.
-b420
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What that man said 
and I absolutely love fucking about with stuff.
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You make a good point, I used the A driver exactly as you described for my brother’s light. I’m in the minority, I have four drivers controlled by a Bluefish LED controller. This allows me to adjust the dim up, dim down, as well as other blending spectrum.
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So, yeah, different strokes for different folks. If I could I´d trade the only A I have for a B on a heartbeat. Perhaps this is a good chance to ask what do you guys use for automation. @ReikoX mentioned the Bluefish, anyone could guide me to use a spare Arduino Uno I have around here?
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You could hard code something pretty easy. It’s just a PWM output. If you wanted to be able to control it over the internet with your phone, like my Bluefish, it would be a lot harder.
In addition to the Bluefish. some other off the shelf options are ChilLED Drive and the Coralux Storm LED Controller.
https://aquarium-led-controller.com/product/bluefish-led-controller/
http://coralux.net/?wpsc-product=storm-led-controller
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By Request: The new dual-connector SolStrip X2
You asked for it, and you got it. Photon Solutions is excited to present the company’s latest iteration of its horticultural LED light strips, the dual-connector SolStrip X2. Brought to you, by, well, you…
If you’ve read some of my blog posts here you’ll know I advocate parallel wiring schemes in LED strip light projects for the added cushion of safety over high-voltage series-wired designs. Most LED DIY shops promote series wiring, arguing that series is simpler, “cleaner”, and offers more protection for delicate and expensive COB lights. Human safety is given short shrift by the series folks, IMO.
Luckily, we are building lights with LED strips, which by design have overpowering protection designed into them, negating the protective advantage of series wiring and allowing us to use much safer (for humans and light-emitting diodes) parallel circuits using ultra-low 24 and 36 volt power supplies.
This wiring style works well with SolSheets, where the “spider” of power leads leading to each SolStrip in a SolSheet lamp is easily contained within the lamp housing. But as several SolStrip DIYers have mentioned, it is less ideal in the increasingly popular SolStix Rack systems, where parallel wiring harnesses stretched across six and eight-strip racks can create a spaghetti-knot of wiring held together by a dozen or more connectors, like this:
The dual-connector design eliminates the mess and fuss of parallel wiring designs in rack systems by placing a dual-conductor, single-pole Molex connector at each end of the X2 strip. The design allows for all positive leads to be run along one side of the strips, using only the strip connectors, and all negative leads to be run along the opposite side. The design eliminates the overlapping wiring and additional connectors needed for extended rack designs, like this:
The new dual-connector X2 SolStrips will be offered exclusively with our X2 SolStix going forward, unless the single-connector design is requested. It should make for easier and cleaner rack builds, allowing builders to neatly tuck their wiring harnesses into the rack support hardware, and minimizing the number of connectors - and potential continuity issues - per circuit.
It wasn’t our idea, but it was a good idea, and the direct result of input from the SolStrip builder community. Keep offering those good ideas and we will continue using them to make SolStrips even better. -b420
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I was thinking a ready made wiring loom might be a good addition but this is even better/easier eh
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Getting info on the solsheet x…i think im gonna put forth the effort and buy 1.
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You wont regret it pal but watch out cos those solsticks can be addictive, especially if your a sun starved Scotsman. I’ll soon have enough of the things to light a runway and i still want more, just ask @anon58740919 
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