Chopped the last few plants, got a fine little pile of seeds off the last two with enough nice brown ones to grow the next generation. 
Next up, soil re-amendment and a germination attempt on my old 1997 seeds.
I too have been fighting pests, Fungus gnats in my case- they are greatly reduced already, I also have a host of predators, the Jumping spiders being my favoritesā¦ One thing I think missed early on, Alot of my reading suggested that autoās donāt āneed much nutritionāā¦I think I can say thatās utter BSā¦ Specifically i was looking at @Going2fast 's soilā I believe it was 2 cups of 10-10-10 mixed with compost at the bottom, and then using miricale grow organics ontopā¦ Thats seems like a tremendous amount of fertilizer-- my little pots had nothing- just a little top dress of 3-4-6 once a weekā¦ It now seems obvious that in the small pots there was a nutrition shortage as wellā¦
Ooo! I wanted jumping spiders, they are my favorite spiders! But couldnāt find any in the garden earlier in the year to bring in. Iāll keep an eye when it warms up again. I have itty bitty web spinners, but theyāre very shy.
Yes, cannabis needs a ton of nutrients. If youāre a vegetable gardener, I think theyāre like corn or squash, just ridiculous nutrient needs. It is possible to overdo it, but the only way I managed it with āwhole foodsā fertilizer products rather than concentrates was amending a solo cup with compost that was 50% chicken poo. 
I have trouble keeping them fed in whatās usually about 7gallons of soil if they take more than about 10 weeks to get to harvest. Iām trying increasing the soil amount again for this next run. Filling all the pots fully, and using a couple I had for potatoes that are much larger.
Does it matter if my fresh worm castings include worms (and springtails)? @JohnnyPotseed tagging you hoping for your input since the worm castings is from your thread. 
Started germination for 75 of my old seeds today, from 1997. Previous plain water soak of 20 seeds with no prep showed tails from 3, but none survived. Iāve tried giving them to folks to help, but that hasnāt worked out, so Iām trying it myself, with the about 250 I have left.
I read up and made some choices. Fyi, normally I just float seeds in my filtered tap water then straight into living soil. Works great.
First up, I shook them in a tube of fine sand paper until my arm was sore. They look minimally buffed. Then I shaved bits if the ridged edge or tip off about a third of them.
Second, I soaked them all for 15min in 1% hydrogen peroxide / 99% filtered tap water (which is pH 7) at about 75 degrees.
Now they are soaking (floating) overnight or maybe up to 24h in a about 2/3 cup of filtered water with a teaspoon of BioAg Ful-Power, and a quarter teaspoon of molasses. It is in a cupboard that stays about 72 degrees.
My worm bin is outside on the porch, where its cold now (Iāll get them their under tower heater & bubble wrap cozy soon), maybe 40 degrees. I scooped a clamshell full from the lower tiers and put it in the closet to warm up.
Looking for advice on the next step. I could put together a second clamshell with just about any standard condiments and split the seeds, or just all in with the worms this time.
These are treasures, lovely Hindu Kush stuff with some purple phenos. Things my parents and their neighborhood grew since the 70ās. Iāve got some of their modern progeny, and theyāre lovely, but herm tendencies were allowed to flourish. Interestingly they are mighty potent even seeded, but no one prefers smoking seeded weed, so Iād love to revive the old lines. If I can get some of these plants going Iāll do as big an OP event as I can manage and then share the seeds. 
Thanks for any support, all suggestions welcomed.
Well, I gotta sayā¦ lol ya took what I said and ran with it, to your own music! But sounds like a plan. The Springtails are predators that eat bad pests, so that shouldnāt be a problem. However, Iād pull the worms out of the castings, not thatIi think theyāre badā¦ just to keep em from dying on ya (thatās IF you do like me, and just mix the casting into your soil potted with the babies. The water will do em in)
Iāll check in and see how things go for you.
I always tell folks to use anything, nothing, or just some things I say, up to them (you, in this case) glad to see someone trying out a mixture of methodsā¦
BTW I see you have a bad pest problem there, brother!
Have you seen the thread i did on a DIY āone-n-doneā for Mites, thips, and Aphids?
https://overgrow.com/t/mites-thrips-aphids-one-n-done-with-pics/
All food grade ingredients, harmless to use on plants all the way up to harvest.
Butā¦ kills on contact! Eggs, nymphs, adultsā¦ all of em.
Thank you very much!!
Worm death - so youāre saturating the worm castings then? I was envisioning just worm-bin level wet, but looking at your pics again it looks more like soup. I might try to get away with just worm-safe wetness. Thereās too many baby worms to remove, and I donāt have any fully mature wormless castings.
I guess I could buy some finished castings, or maybe get the bottom layer wet and wait for the worms to relocate on their own, then skim them off with the top soil. Hmm.
Yes, I did see that DIY āone-n-doneā thread, read a bunch of it and it sounds great. I think Iāve killed all the pests just now. I stopped my perpetual, sprayed the few plants that stay alternately with isopropyl & spinosad, and then added literally about 800 ladybugs to eat any pests I missed. The little spiders are still there too. If anything comes back my plan is to make up some of your āone-n-doneā and have at it.
Springtails are like rolly pollies, so long as thereās topdressing / mulch in your pots theyāll leave your cannabis alone. Springtails are also predatory so theyāll eat the ones that do eat eat your cannabis.
Spinosad is a big NO-NO, brother. Iāve said it often here on OG and folks still insist on using it. Spinosad is bad to smoke. Any trace of it will cause a lab test to FAILā¦ in almost any state where Ganja is legal. I found this out the hard way, when we were commercial opā¦ lost over $20,000 harvest due to using Azamax, which had Spinosad in it!
That was only the one harvest, but still, lol it did hurt! We ran a perpetual harvest set-up with chops every other week,.
Couldnāt even get it processed down into concentrate!
If you research it, youāll find that it lasts awhile on Ganja, especially indoor grows. But it can be gotten rid of with foliar feeds/rinses eventually. Depending on how often/much you used it, anywhere from a few weeks to months. We had only used the Azamax a couple of times, but it was enough. After the Fail, we stopped chopping for just over a month, while using daily rinses. Spraying things down with a 2gal pump sprayer. lol Needless to say, we also tossed that $350/gal of Azamax!
Thatās awful! Appreciate the heads-up. Iāve only used it on early veg cannabis, a few near dead seed mommas, and on my other plants. This time I was cannabis-free ans it was just other plants.
Got a giant sprawling dragonfruit in my grow room, a Thai lime, and a few random others. Killed off all the annual type plants and trimmed the rest for easier spray coverage when I paused my perpetual cannabis grow. Bare greenhouse looks so sad right now! 
I got a tail! 13 hours of soak, one showing a tail. When I disturbed them they all started to sink, so I decided thatās enough soaking, donāt want them to drown.
Moved them all into the clamshell. It had steamed up on top, so nicely moist. I roughed up the surface gently, placed the seeds in rows with a marker for the one with a tail. Pressed each into the surface with a fingertip and dripped a little of the soak mixture over them. Back in the warm closet to wait.
@20 hours = 2 more tails showing 
and there could be some that I donāt see due to the orientation of the seed.
I turned the two new ones so the tails are headed down into the worm glop, and marked them.
I placed a thoroughly rinsed damp paper towel over the top of the soil because the humidity seemed just a little too low above ground.
Now trying to think when to transfer to soil. Iām thinking another day or two, with the hope of roots at about half inch. I only have a half inch of worm glop in there, so the answer might be āwhen I see roots hit the bottomā or āwhen the cotyledons try to emergeā. Or maybe just 24hours after tails? Regardless, Iāll be taking a spoonful of the surrounding worm glop with them. Thereās already worms and springtails in my grow bags.
With regular seeds, I move them any time after they show a tail. Just uncertain about these. So grateful to have any living at all!
Input very welcome.
Iām not qualified for advise, but keep em warm. Congrats on the revival, hope you get moreā¦
Blargh. Well, I think the first batch are toast - or the opposite really. The closet / cupboard got down into the 60s overnight. They might already have been in trouble, but that was probably the end for them. They made no progress, and when I pulled off some seed coats they had brown spots on the cotyledons, which I associate with bad microbes starting in. I carefully peeled half or all of the seed coat off a bunch of them, gave them a short soak in some chamomile tea (antifungal), and put them in a chamomile-tea damp paper towel in a ziploc in a hot pad on my computer. Been keeping them at ~75f all day and most looked no different at the evening check, which is perhaps the best that can be hoped for. Warmed the worm glop back up to about 72. Now Iāve set up a tub for the night with an actual seedling mat and a temp controller. Iāll wait a week before actually giving up on them. Iāve fried seedlings with those heat mats before too, so Iāll be monitoring it for a couple hours here before bed.
Started round 2 with 50 seeds. No dry scarification this time, donāt want any bad microbes getting in. Soaked in 1% hydrogen peroxide for 15min. Then rinsed and rubbed the seeds on the fine mesh strainer a bit to rough up the seed coat a tiny bit. Now soaking in 3/4 cup of chamomile tea with a drip of agave nectar, a drop of molasses, and 3/4 teaspoon of Ful-Power. In the morning I plan on moving them into a ziploc with well-rinsed paper towels and the same mix. They are in the tub meant to stay in the 70s overnight. (In case youāre wondering, my grow room wonāt work because it joins our whole house in getting down to the low 60s at night right now.
Blarrrghā¦ (I like that word).
I recently lost 2 rounds of germinated seeds. due to temps getting a wee bit too lowā¦ It was the only variable that was outside the parameters of success Yep, the house just got a bit chilly overnightā¦ So it seems this lesson is being re-enforcedā¦ Keep em warm for the begining, over 70 degrees seems to be the key in my (limited) experienceā¦ I have 2 scarlet grape seeds that are showing as seedlings todayā¦er ā¦ amybe one an and half atmā¦ The peroxide seems a proven science-- with the optimum being a 1.5-2% solution-- I use it for the full duration in the papertowel method-- I keep the papertowel damp in an old brown yeast jar, no baggie., I have tried it with mykos added to the towel as well- but saw no benefit. As soon as I see tails, I plant with alot of mykos stirred in ā¦ I use a humidity dome for a few days while the seedlings get used to the light on the edges of the tent. I kinda question the agave/tea/honey/molassas bit-- that seems more like microbial food than anything that would benefit a newly hatched tap root,- no? Wishing you warm temps and lots ofā¦ cracked beans? stay warm!
Thanks! The stuff I read suggested if the seeds were really old then they might not have proper sugar stores of their own, but youāre right its mostly going to be microbe fuel, which is super risky early on. Iāll try the next batch without any sugars and with the higher % hydrogen peroxide you mentioned.
I think temps were my main failing point. I do usually just germinate seeds in the house temps, but after a bit more reading its clear those really arenāt ideal. 
and in fact it seems mid to upper 70s would be better. These seeds are from outdoor cannabis too, used to northern california. My dad & the neighbors would start them indoors, but Iām sure it was somewhere warm in the house. (Wood stove heating back then. 
) Iāve got a tub set up and temps are up in the mid 70ās now.
Some tails popped out from batch #2 and Iāve just moved all the seeds from the soak into paper towels in a little glass tupperware. The towels just have filtered water mixed with a little tiny bit of the fulvic acid stuff.
Iām going to have to set up some heated seedling trays in my greenhouse too, because assuming I can get some past the tail stage I bet these baby plants wonāt put up with cold nights like my others do. What a PITA
Whenever we ran out of WC, rather than use the stuff that was half-ready, weād just buy a bag of WC off Amazon, when finished with it, just mix it into the composted soil mix for use in the pots.
Always had heat mats with some insulation between the tray and mat, to drop the temps a bit in the WC tray/humidity domes.
Thanks! I just ordered some, and another heat mat & a couple other things that looked like fun. Got plenty of seeds left to go round a few more times.
Be sure when you ready, to wet the WC down really good, until there is water standingā¦ then soak up the excess with paper or cloth towels. Leaving the WC wet, but not swimming, ya know? If you get one of the heat mats with thermostat controls itās no problem to turn it down to where the tray isnāt āhotā, use a towel over the humidity dome to give em darkness.
