A total nube's DIY LED build 🛠

[Kingmambo]

Good points Nube. The tunability is more of a want than a need. I realize there is nothing conclusive re: research. If I’m using the dual-band SolStix the ability to modify the color temperature is already there. Surely, for the cost of a couple potentiometers and some wire, having the tunability is a nice bonus. Might never use it, might soon find out there is benefit.

@nube

Secondly, I prefer single row diode strips instead of boards or multi-row strips for two reasons - heat and light distribution.

In my case, the heat should be a non-issue (or no more an issue than for single-row strips) as the SolStix are attached to beefy aluminum heat sinks. I’m also using an open design and I’m OCD about air movement.

I would argue there is negligible difference in light distribution once you’re 2-3 inches away from the fixture. Wouldn’t the cones of light put out by the LEDs overlap in a few inches? I accept the actual distribution of the light may be nominally more even with single strips but it has to be marginal. I always rotate my plants in place and in the grow space so this is not overly important to me.

@nube

I think the better thing to do is to hone your craft. Get better at growing.

I would hope anyone who grows is constantly working on the craft to become better. Certainly, most here on OG are devoted enough to hone their craft. I work every day to learn more to be the best grower I can be.

I’m still in the planning phase so I appreciate the conversations in these light threads. I will start a build log soon. Thanks again.

Kev

[Mr.Sparkle]

@nube

Penetration has always been a silly thing since stoners mistakenly equate penetration with light intensity.

All for the spread out multipoint light sources for coverage obviously something to consider is a more intense light source will have a greater vertical distance that it will be effective in a “happy growth zone” per say which the “stoners” inaccurately call penetration, where as a dimmer but multipoint source will achieve better coverage though at the expense of having that greater depth it can work at, essentially the further away you can get that “happy zone” away from the source the greater the usable depth or height that zone becomes, obvious disadvantage is it becomes less efficient to do so as energy is being wasted and absorbed by the air and walls as it falls off just trying to get to that point.

Also for the drivers the HLG’s have the ability to run over spec due to them being variable in both current and voltage to fit a wider range of application example say a bit lower voltage but higher current or higher voltage but less current within the range they work in to equal their rated output running them overdriven just puts more load on them which can prematurely make them fail, XLG’s you can overdrive too but they aren’t as robust as the hlg’s in those regards and best practice for longevity is just to run them at spec output or less.

[Mr.Sparkle]

@Kingmambo

If I’m using the dual-band SolStix the ability to modify the color temperature is already there. Surely, for the cost of a couple potentiometers and some wire, having the tunability is a nice bonus.

Also agree with @nube the whole split color temp is just a sales gimmick which isn’t really needed and typically a waste considering the spectrum of light that white leds throw out.

[cannabissequoia]

@nube

Hey man, IR isn’t super useful to plants other than as heat. Maybe you meant far red (FR)?

[nube]

Value proposition time. Here’s an interesting comparison between the lights @Vagabond_Windy and I just built with EB3 4ft strips vs. the Alibaba and the boutique brands on a few lighting metrics:

Windy:

(ignore the last column because it’s not super helpful)

The other lights

@The_Lazy_Hippie

[cannabissequoia]

Nice job dudes.

Really appreciate the work you put into it and sharing too.

[cannabliss]

Legal in NY finally want to expand any info or tips on a flwer light for a 2x4 great thread man

[CARE_giver]

So I’m open to this idea but I’m not exactly a handyman.

Has anyone built one of these successfully with minimal knowledge? And how much did you save exactly?

[Gpaw]

There’s at least half a dozen folks here than can advise you on a DIY build.

Now what do you have in mind?
(Ok, perhaps not a fair question)
How big a tent or floor space do you want to light & is it general use or dedicated? i.e. Flower needs the most power, seedlings the least.

Cheers
G

[CARE_giver]

I talked to my friend at work today. He had a drill and screwdriver. And some electrical experience to boot. Sounds like that’s about all you need.

I’m looking to cover a 5x5 of smaller ish plants at first. So more spread than penetration. But more pen is never a bad thing . But yes mainly for flower. I’ll probably grab some t5s for veg. They always sufficed to be honest.

Then if all goes well I’ll probably add one every few months or so.

[Gpaw]

The light I built is 46" x 42" (20 x strips (44" long) which would do you for a 5 x 5. I like the large footprint of this light as it really improves penetration.

The ‘rule of thumb’ is 30 watts per square foot.
I found this to be high as I’ve never been able to crank it over 66% full power but on the ‘plus side’ the drivers run cool.

T5s are a good light, not as efficient as current LED design but not that far off either.
Anyway, have fun with the project, if you want to bounce any questions off me - feel free.

Cheers
G

[Vagabond_Windy]

@Gpaw

T5s are a good light, not as efficient as current LED design but not that far off either.

I’ve finally eliminated all t5’s except a tiny one I’m keeping for veggies. Small diy LEDs for the win

[CARE_giver]

I’m sure I will have questions when the time comes. I appreciate it man .

[RandomHumanoid]

I’m copying/pasting my post from the other thread. I really should have posted here as soon as I put them together. I made 3 1/2 of these so far. I used aluminum fence pieces because i used to work there and got them free. But its a pain to get them square. They are light, but have no heat sinks. I didn’t have nearly enough fence to use them the long way as heat sinks. I used them in a room in winter so attached the drivers to the tops for heat, but used a cookie sheet between them and the strips for a lil protection. Now i want tents, so they might come off if it gets to hot in there.
I went with 2.5X4 frames. I still have enough to make 6 more lights if anyone in Michigan is interested
used them to hang last years wedding cake

and some multileafs I was abusing. They came around. It was my fault, not the lights.

[Gpaw]

Great job.
If it works… it works!

If you run into a heat problem, you have the option of moving the drivers outside the grow area.
I ‘sacrificed’ a cheap extension cord (14 AWG) to do that.

Cheers
G

[nube]

Wow that’s a lot of work to get the frames square, but it looks like it was worth it! You did a fine job. May they bring you many happy returns!

I hope the strips last a long time…having no heatsinking surface to mate with may reduce their lifespans, but each to his own!

What do you think of the results in veg and flower? Got any harvest pics?

[RandomHumanoid]

That was my first real attempt at indoor growing, and it could have gone better in the beginning, and the end, but the middle went ok. lol. I learned a lot, and managed to make seeds which was the goal for that run. This winter will be more about production & pheno hunting. So I’m not really in a position to say how good or bad they are, but a noob can grow under them . I think I had them set to low too, but I really have no idea because I was just guessing. I’m gonna at least download a light measure app this time if i don’t get something better in time. I was worried about heating them up to much. I did get some more fence pieces now. So I’ll probably have to sit around cutting little pieces to tape in there and at least attempt to get some heat sinkage. I have plenty of strips if I burn them up, but it would still be a wasteful shame to wreck them. Plus a pain to swap them out.
I did my multileaf(Многолистка) mutant run with them. The buds are ugly, but its a super fast variety so smaller buds anyway, then its seeded, and had troubles at the end. So not representative of the strain or the lights under normal conditions.

[Gpaw]

@RandomHumanoid

I have plenty of strips if I burn them up, but it would still be a wasteful shame to wreck them.

If you are using Bridgelux Gen 2s then the max operating temperature is 85C. I imagine that is typical for similar products. I found I was about 35~40C at flower. Basically if you can keep your finger on the back for 5 seconds you are under 50C (I also use an IR thermometer)

Cheers
G

[RandomHumanoid]

thats good to know. I never let them get hot. Plenty warm, but there was never a limit to how long I could touch them or anything. I just want to get them heat sinked a little, and something to get a decently close measurement, so have some idea where I’m at. I didn’t get to use them last winter. I just used my closet with a solstrip and my chambers. So I’m looking forward to this winters fun with more space again.