It’s not garbage to caution people to use low nitrogen levels with sativa’s. You are growing a heavily worked haze and I would imagine they can handle more Nitrogen than what has been grown around OG lately. Slow release makes a huge difference as to how much you can use… Most of the sativa talk around here lately has been about unworked landraces from country of origin and there is a distinction. High nitrogen levels are going to give you all leaf and a nasty flavor if the plants can even handle it, which they typically cannot. This Sudan hedge was grown with no added nitrogen other than a handful of 3 18 fishbone meal for example. Screenshot_20230303-131642_Gallery|690x310
15 Likes
Without a soil analysis, that means little to me. Appreciate you sharing though. Are those your plants?
I’m talking soil less mixes although I tend to throw in some amendments such as the meals, horse nuggets made into a slurry slop, etc. when I mix soils in bulk.
My native soil is totally void of N. Around the house which I built in what used to be a hay field I apply/throw a mix of ammonium sulfate and a turf type 15-5-10 with micros around my 65 trees, turf, etc. just before an impending rain storm.
FWIW, the plants at the bottom of your photo are showing a N deficiency. Those plants WILL be subject to premature leaf necrosis, which is no bueno for a long flowering plant like a pure sativa.
Considering the anatomy and physiology of cannabis, I consider it a foliar plant…that flowers to carry on the specie. My point being…folks tend to fall for the forum hype which is predicated and driven by the fertilizer industry. That industry targets noobs who don’t have a horticultural foundation and will believe anything.
No flowery labels here, with the kiddy names and cartoon artistry. Just the facts, IF, you know soil chemistry, plant nutrition and what makes a plant tick. https://icl-sf.com/uploads/USA/Rebranded%20Product%20Sheets/OH/a903226_osmocote_plus_15-9-12_5-6m.pdf
I can recommend that food for ANY indoor or outdoor grown annual or perennial. It’s all I use for my greenhouse stock on tropical fruit trees, cannabis, newly planted vineyard, etc.
Uncle Ben
3 Likes
What is that?
1 Like
So that’s the Osmocote plus 15-9-12. Had someone recommend Osmocote to me but pointed to the regular, which is 14-14-14. Have you tried that formula @OldUncleBen ?
1 Like
Great point about the fertilizer industry, it looks like they’re actively funding these studies that show the soil analysis.
Check out this study here about the Cambodian context: Nutrient Status of Cambodian Soils, Rationalisation of Fertiliser Recommendations and the Challenges Ahead for Cambodian Soil Science – Current Agriculture Research Journal
Intuitively, doesn’t it makes sense to attempt to replicate terroire of a particular point of origin, to whatever degree possible when growing unworked landraces?
3 Likes
No, should be fine if it has a good profile.
Plants don’t need or use much P, reason why I tend to buy low P foods no matter what the brand. Peters makes an awesome High Performance 25-5-10 for example. Hard to beat Dyna-Gro Foliage Pro too. It’s a 9-3-6.
3 Likes
Perfect, thanks.
With you having a tree farm and dealing with as many outdoor plants as you do and the mindset of low P and low K I am surprised you are not just using ammonia sulfate products.
When I was working on a farm in NY growing corn, alfalfa, and rye we used anhydrous with great results.
2 Likes
Yes
They are just about ready to harvest. I’ve got them right how i like them. All flushed and nitrogen about used up. Some of these sativas turn yellow before harvest no matter what you do. I’ve had plants yellow and harvest and then reused the same soil for their offspring without adding anything And the plants do fine
True. But the two Nitrogen offenders were talking about using less fertilizer, not more. I’ve seen more sativa plants messed up from too much of Rather than not enough Nitrogen So I always urge caution. The plants in the bottom of that photo are at week 22 of a 16 week listed flowering cycle. They did run shy of nitrogen At the end but it was too late to add any.
8 Likes
Nice job!
Grow hard,
UB
1 Like
Used a Mazzei injector system running Peters for feeding. I only apply Osmocote for new plantings in the field. Ran 2 zones, 1 mile each of your typical 1/2" drip irrigation tubing. The injector is on the left, on the bypass. Tubing attaches to the black gadget, is dropped into a bucket of fertilizer mix. This photo shows me finishing up the construction in the pump house.
8 Likes
That’s not now, is it? Looks like “Upstate” NY about Oct,?
2 Likes
That was last August in the Catskills. I force flower sativas early to catch the stronger summer sun but those ( manipuri) flowered 2 months longer than listed and really didn’t properly ripen because of that. The calyxes never really swelled. The Sudan plants autoflower, but are rot prone. I didn’t even plant that hedge, having lost most of the previous years attempt. Those plants were self sown volunteers from the year before. I harvested one small branch. The rest a total moldfest.
3 Likes
Man, sorry to hear that. Really sucks. Mandala is good about giving info on strain botrytis/mold resistance. Also, I stock 2 broad spectrum fungicides I wouldn’t hesitate to use on cannabis and they could be used long before the plant is ready for harvest. Both are systemic, copper sulfate pentahydrate chemistries and labeled OMRI if you roll that way. Magnabon CS2005 and Phyton 35. You can only order thru a distributor. Tell them you are a grower, a wholesaler and such, and you’ll get a good deal.
Another product I stock is Keyplex 350DP. It is one of those that supposedly increases internal disease resistance. Excellent source and used by commercial folks for its micros, minors. You could also try apps of Dyna-Gro’s ProText, a silicate product. Kicker is we growers don’t know if silicates really work, if the plant accumulates it enough and processes it such that it has any real world value. A lot of this stuff is foreign to this community. I’m lucky enough to have real world experience.
Fungicides work. I’ll attach a few guides I use in my vineyard, recommended by the Aggies to commercial vineyard managers. Pristine is about as good (and safe) as it gets, but it’s very expensive. Look for products that provide good botrytis control. The “strobies” aka strobins are great. Pristine contains a strobie.
Good luck,
UB
3 Likes
Holy crap!
Waaaay past my budget………
2 Likes
I split a jug with a friend about 12 years ago for my small vineyard. Still have a little left. Growers in Florida use it on the mango trees so it’s real safe.
Cheapest I can find is on ebay. It’s a value if you split it with about 10 others. https://www.ebay.com/itm/402745533955?hash=item5dc5812603:g:ee0AAOSwMRhg1UFk&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAAoDTT9L2xKbbNfcHG%2Ba7O%2BQffUeTKSGuKDfrN0GipOxLbyQ35NH4I33Mz4MgVnWw2HiHLdjMBtVPcAyNy3qbMHuIEza2RaXGA4leoDdspZydPT%2FNqLh%2FN35Oflp4%2FIxrOHE%2Bz3lq5R2SCO5BSIeaCjqQ0c%2FeE5Z0WW6Hm5LY6bpJ6uRz8sBMDoe4tlXhp4JznFEd07fXA5WzP2dWiaE%2Byslw%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR8qy49LVYQ
2 Likes
[quote=“OldUncleBen, post:418, topic:88572”]
Man, sorry to hear that. Really sucks.
[/quote]…
It does. I’m quite used to it, though lol. I knew it would be a mold fest, but I’m working on acclimating this one and wanted o see how far they could make it in the ground. It made it a little later than last years container plant outdoor testers did ( i left some out thru all weather) and there was a little less septoria too…( it came later) There was around a week or two just before late flowering where i foolishly thought it could actually make it to the finish. Then the buds fattened and the rains came. I didn’t see anything that looked real potent anyway. Around 25% potent plants and the seeds had dropped off the inferior plants from the prior year. Here’s the good ones from last year. Brought in at night or they never would have gotten so far.
Heres a picture of one of the twins just 8 days earlier…they yellow quickly once ripe.
The good ones were quite stony but all had cbd imo.
Can you use these products on buds? I’d spend the money if it would allow for growing indicas outdoors here. $400 compared to losing dozens of hours of effort seems cheap. Sounds like it could last a while too. It does rain often here. Does it need re -application afterwards? . I’m Shoveling snow today l, so no time to look just now…and Oaxaca has stolen my short term memory from me🤣
The 2 major obstacles here are botritis and septoria/ other leaf funguses.
It makes lots of sense for Preservation sake in particular. I don’t do much of anything though aside from trying to replicate the sun intensity as much as possible. If i had unlimited resources I’d go whole hog replicating all I could. Instead i OP all P1 landraces, put seeds away and play with the offspring to acclimate them.
11 Likes
Take a little time to investigate the products I mentioned. You’ll find something that should work for you or buy strains indigenous to your conditions. Mandala offers many.
2 Likes
Seeds received @Oldjoints. Many thanks! This one has been on my list a couple years now. I’m very happy to have it in the old seed stashbox😁
5 Likes
can get samples of their nutrient line (Dyna-Gro) believe it’s $20.00 But used it in a soil medium - good results
1 Like