Hello all. Currently in the design phase of my closet grow, and I have been doing my research regarding lights. My space is 4’10 x 3’4 x 7’10, or ~16 square feet, and I intend to scrog and use every inch of space available.
I know that HPS is the “industry standard”, and that 1000 watts are recommended per 16 square feet of canopy. That equates to ~1000+ ppfd, typically higher if it’s mounted close and air-cooled. However, I can’t justify using 1950s technology in 2018 because it’s inefficient, hot, and ultimately outmatched by new white phosphor LEDs in terms of spectrum, light distribution, and photon output.
So here’s the thing: I want to create an LED array that will break 1100 ppfd. My research first led me to COBs, then Quantum Boards, and now I’m looking at SolStrips to use as my light engines.
I also want to create a uniform light distribution, so I’m looking at 9-12 2-light SolStrip bars or 6-8 Quantum Boards and running them soft for efficiency and heat management. Ideally the array would stretch from edge to edge, without hotspots or gaps.
Now the question: is this too much light, or is this a reasonable build for a 1000W HPS replacement?
I’ve been in touch with @Baudelaire in DM. SolStrips are the main reason I joined OG, this seems to be the only place talking about them and QBs are constantly out of stock to the point it’s frustrating. Plus SolStrips are cheaper, and I am not able to justify $600 in QBs before heatsinks and drivers.
I hope I can contribute to discussions where my expertise might be useful. I freely admit that I understand the science, but the practice is all still very new to me.
Everyone using SolStrips seems to be telling me to go with the 2 HLG-320h-24A drivers for 9 strips each. All of my previous research with COBs has indicated that constant current drivers like the HLG-320h-C(1050, 1400, 1750, 2100, etc) are considered to be safer and more efficient. I am also interested in remote dimmable drivers because I’m not too sure where I plan to mount the drivers yet.
Is there a reason behind selecting one over the other for SolStrips? Also, I’m working on a 15-amp circuit so total current is a possible build constraint.
Yes a HLG-320H-24A will work great for a 9 SolStrip fixture. If you prefer you can do the C2100. Depending on what you choose will make you wire your led strips in series or parallel (or even both) Constant voltage (CV) is just as safe and efficient as constant current (CC).
If you get type A driver, then it will have the dimming capability on the driver itself
If you get type B driver, then it will have wires for an external PWM signal or resistance controller
Are you wiring a 15A with 240v or 120v?
Even if you are running 2 HGL-320H-XXX the max draw per unit on 120v is 3.5A…So just for your 2 lights your using 47% (7A) of your 15A circuit.
120v 15-amp standard house current. I am going to add a new electrical box for the closet from an existing run.
The HLG-320h-C1750B is currently the driver I’m leaning towards. If my estimation is correct, each strip pulls 20v at 1750ma, giving me 180v for 9 strips in series, just under the max output of 183v for the driver.
However, that is pure estimation. I would not feel confident making a $200 selection based on guesswork.
I have heard that constant voltage is riskier when it comes to thermal runaway. If that’s not the case, then that changes things.
Also, are you saying that the 320h-24A/B only draws ~3.5a per driver from the wall? Because that changes things, too.
The reason I was wondering about the difference between A/B models was because I’ve always seen people suggest the B model for remote dimming. Is there any benefit to selecting an A model? I was under the impression that they’re less desirable.
In theory each SolStrip can be ran up to 2400mA@24v however our good friend @Baudelaire is looking out for the longevity of his lights and has it rate at a modest 2100mA@24v per SolStrip.
Its better to have to driver running close to 100% load and having the light system run between 33% - 80%. This will add to the longevity of the LED light boards, and will actually have a higher efficiency because of the LM561c diode puts out higher lumens with lower current, plus the driver is most efficient (94%) with a 70% to 100% load.
Type A driver is great if you don’t want to hassle with wiring in the correct controller. Since its all built into the driver itself.
I have not setup a type B driver as of yet. However I do know the dimmer range can be larger than the type A controller.
Both type drivers can output their max rated DC amps/watts/volts for that specific driver
After some discussion and research, I’m currently leaning towards the HLG-480h-c1750b. With a total output of 273v @ 1750ma, it can drive up to 11 SolStrips ~23.85v each.
Two drivers would give me a total output of ~960 watts, should I connect 22 strips.
Also, it’s worth noting that MeanWell technical sheets contain figures for max number of units that can be connected to 16 amp circuit breakers. I believe it’s 2 on “type b breakers”, so I need to look in my breaker box to make sure it’s compatible.
Isn’t the max voltage for a molex around 100 volts? Ya might burn it up. I’ll say again 1000 watts is over kill. Let’s say hypothetically you don’t burn your plants with the light alone (very unlikely). As soon as you hit them with any nutes they’re gonna burn also temp raises just a lit they’re toast. Plus co2 would be a must. If you’re that concerned about efficiency go with a single hlg-600
I’m still thinking 18 strips for 750w. 18(23.85v*1.75a). The idea is that I have the power to spare, rather than pinching volts.
A Quantum design is still on my mind, but the HLG600 doesn’t look as though it would distribute light evenly in a rectangular space. My QB design would have 6-8 QB304 on 2 HLG-320h-c2800b, but 11x6 QBs still offer poorer distribution compared to evenly spaced 15x2 bars over a larger area.
Like I said molex have a voltage limit def double check it. But i could swear it’s under 100 volts. Also you run to many in series you’ll have voltage sag. Huh you know you can run in parallel also right? So you can still distribute the boards however you like. You might be worried about if one of the boards go out but when you have multi set up and they’re under driven it’s not an issue.
Based on what I’ve seen from cobs, it’s not uncommon to string 8 lights in series. I’ve not seen voltage sag mentioned as anything other than a theoretical possibility.
I can’t find any information about a max voltage for molex connectors. They seem to be rated for max current. But please, if you have data, I’d love to see it before fucking anything up and frying my unit or my house.
I’m sorry I doubt I could find that info again even searching a couple hours. But I know they have a limit and i’m almost positive it’s under 100 volts. I’m not bsing just to prove some point. I might be an ahole but i’m an honest one.
I was under the impression that amps and current are what fry things, hence resistors heating up and circuit breakers tripping at designated amperages. Ohm’s Law seems to indicate as much.
And even if you’re an asshole, your honesty is appreciated. I’m an asshole, too. I just sincerely want input, especially when it comes to things that can start fires or blow out an investment due to oversight.