Im not sure how the lens would reduce burning caused by the drops on the leaf when you spray unless it lowered the light intensity a lot, or spread the beam out more - which would be the opposite of ‘focusing’.
Still, I have no direct experience with these, so Im just mouthing off 
My Blackstar Chrome lights use Fresnel lenses over the diodes. Like you said, these were custom designed lenses. They sure did a good job of focusing the footprint though. COBs often have lenses and reflectors to narrow the beam angle.
To protect lights not plants lol electricity an water dont mix or so ive heard you should try a toaster in the tub who dont like baths an toast what could go wrong hahaha XD
At $6 a pop, and with questionable demand, I think I’m going to just run bare. I’m already going to paint the walls white (satin or semigloss) and use the entire space so any scattered light will eventually end up in the canopy anyhow.
An imho light dont hurt your plants in foliar feeding its some kinda chemical burn going on there it can rain outside an lants get wet an not burn lol
@Growinnblowin I have heard about the need for diode protection (lenses or just straight acrylic, in Chilled’s waterproof case) when using foliar sprays. I don’t anticipate the need for foliars, at the moment, and my grow is going to be soil, so feeding should be easier and I hopefully can avoid needing supplemental foliars.
@Growinnblowin light can definitely hurt plants when it’s focused by the lensing of water droplets. It’s a common problem in home gardens when people spray water on their vegetable plants during sunny days, causing burn spots on lettuce and such. Lensing through droplets can even be tight enough and hot enough to start a fire if dry tinder is in the beam, it’s one of the natural ways wildfires can start.
hmmm i foliar three plus times a week an never had this problem
I had light burn after doing foliar spraying durring lights ON while my new LED fixture was close to the canopy.
I read up on “how to do foliar spraying”, and the results were about even as far as those saying it MUST be done during lights ON and those who said it MUST be done during lights OFF or just at the start of lights OFF. Of course, they ALL agree that if you do it wrong, all your plants die within minutes!!
Thats about par for researching how to grow stuff - especially pot! The answers are all over the place 
Since doing it when the lights were ON was hurting my plants, I started doing it right at lights out instead. I figure that has a couple of benefits in addition to not burning the leaves - the main one being the lights are off and cool and not subject to wet spray hazards.
I have no real clue, but it may depend on your lights and the distance to the canopy and how large your droplets are. I was initially having large drops collect on the leaves. Ive since switched to a fine spray instead.
I do believe it’s based in the size of the droplet, as larger droplets can focus more light. Finer mists also evaporate faster when they heat up in the light.
Just got a nice cash infusion today 
. Sold the wheelchair I got when I was discharged from the hospital 10 years ago, money’s going towards a medical grow. Come next paycheck, I should be able to order everything and get started building.
Unless you’re like me and have your fixture static mounted in a small cab lol.
I’m not aware of any optics compatible with SolStrip… If anyone finds any , i’d be interested in trying them too once I expand my shed’s growing area.
Grats on the cash infusion! Good luck!
If you order your B type driver with your SolStrips we will cable it and add the potentiometer for you so its ready to plug and play. Whether A or B really depends on how much you think you’ll be adjusting your output during your grow cycle. A lot of folks “dial in” their light to find the right power level for their space and then leave it, adjusting light height during their grow. For them, an A model works great.
The Samsung LEDs have a 120 degree dispersion angle, so in a way (compared to HID) they already have reflectors. I don’t know of any optical coverings that improve on running bare from a photons-on-the-plant perspective. They all lose photons in the process, often by 10% or more. As protection from spray and errant vegetation, I think 1/16" acrylic sheeting is useful while minimizing loss (2-4%), which is what we use in the SolSheets.
-b420
I’m thinking using straight 3500K for a veg/bloom light. A 10-100% dimmer may be useful for new clones or seedlings, especially since I’m not sure how practical it will be to raise and lower the fixture several times per grow cycle in my closet. It’s an awkward rectangular space with access through a door that’s offset to the side of the room, and the fixture will be less than 6" from the wall on any side.
I’m still torn about using bare 1/8" aluminum sheets as heatsinks. It’s only ~$20 more for extruded heatsinks, but I’m not at all confident about drilling and tapping metal, and the sheet metal will be easier in that department. The purpose-built heatsinks seem the smarter choice, though.
Too bad there’s not a 2-strip version of the SolStix. I’d take 9.
You dont really have to drill and tap the holes. Just buy longer bolts and use nuts and lock washers.
As far as raising and lowering the light, you would need to rig up a puly system to operate the fixture height. You can save $$ by using eye bolts or hooks instead of pulys.
You could do a simple rope and cleat system. Attach 4 closed eye hooks or bolts in the ceiling at the corners. Run the appropriate size cord from each corner of the fixture up through an eye hook in the ceiling. Then route those cords over to the doorway. Use jam cleats to hold the ropes in position. You can then raise and lower each corner independently. You will need to raise/lower in small steps, but it is doable.
Something like these would be easy.
or
But a simple cleat of almost any type will work if you can do a halfhitch.
Or you can DIY soemthing to hold the ropes in place.
These are what I use to raise/lower my light, but I have easy front access. You will probably have to replace the cord it comes with a longer one. I use one in each corner, but you can get by with 2 or even one of your ficture is balanced and hung properly.