Well, @wolfedawwg has a point about maybe bad insulation somewhere, or a poor connection.
You could take the fixture apart, check that all wires are looking ok, all connectors are tight, and post a picture of the guts for us. For me anyways lol I am super curious if yours is different from mine…
Then you could see if the diode PCB is grounded or not. And you’ll know what it looks like…
Ok give me a few minutes
Ok it was 8 screws but now that they are all off I can’t seem to separate the top from the bottom piece but if I snip the zip tie that holds a red an black wire together that goes to the led’s maybe I could open it. What do you think?
@AlwaysLearnin
If it shuts off that wont necessarily tell you it work properly, you may still have a neutral to ground fault.
The receptacle being wired reverse polarity before thus switching the neutral would explain why the lights were on a little with the timer off if there were a leak to ground.
Fixing the receptacle to proper polarity likely fixed the light issue.
If you open it up, look anywhere the neutral wires come close to any metal or screws and inspect.
I opened it as far as possible. There are wires connected at 3 corners which made it really difficult to get to the zip ties but I managed to take a few pictures of a few areas
Just generally inspect, look for nicked / chaffed wires. Check for loose screws, such as the one to the safety (green/yellow). Anything appearing out of place.
All are in great condition an the screw was not extremely tight but not loose either
From the photos, looks pretty tight. Check that safety wire and see if it’s loose at all. Let’s see if some other comments/thoughts pop up in the next 10-15, then button her back up.
p.s. notice that the fastener locations connecting the upper and lower portion of the housing have paint insulation between the two pieces. Cannot tell how the two pieces are electrically connected, fwiw.
…You got it…
Some of those wires look a little taught, couple of those fan mounting screws look pretty close to some wires as well hard to see clearly zoomed in.
Almost looks like the wires are zip tied to those screws.
They are zipped to a mounting screw in at least one location.
Yes there are wires zip tied around one screw and only in that location
Wouldnt take much, a zip tie too tight with the wires against the screw could do it.
Id also take that ground and mount it directly to the chassis via self tapper or nut and bolt but thats just me.
Any other thoughts, ohm anything out while it’s open? Screw lugs to service?
Ummm how am I supposed to zip tie these wires again lol
Not much really left to do, without any visual damage.
You can always button it up and fire that sucka up and take a current measurement from the chassis to neutral.
Put the meter on mili amps and measure from the chassis or anywhere metal to the neutral slot in the other plug the lamp is plugged into.
Lol, yeah. Tuck in in nicely so that they don’t get pinched when closing things up.
It’s up to you, while it’s open you can ohm out some of the screws that are in contact with the wire, for instance, to each of the spades on the AC service entry. Or, not.
Yeah, close her back up and onto testing it live.
